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Any tips for bracing diff at Ball?
Any tips for bracing diff at Ball?
HAs anyone got any tips/templates for webbing the front diff on a GQ between the ball and the housing?
Any assistance or comments appreciated.
CJ
Any assistance or comments appreciated.
CJ
CJ
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
True I have a laser cut kit for diffs that include brace for both sides of the ball and a lamination fot the tube on the long side that also includes the side of the pumpkin.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
So are the GQ housings known to be weak. I've only dealt with the centered H233B rear, perhaps the extra leverage of the offset housing invites more potential for flex...
No kidding, I was able to grind the hole in mine square again the first time I changed the fluid, but just last weekend I was swapping in a third member with 4.90 gears and the plug was a mangled mess. Got my Dremel and carbide bit and had another go at it like before, but got carried away and made the hole too big (going to have to take it on out to accept a 3/4" breaker bar) and it's been shaved so short that regardless of the hole size it's just not deep enough to get the breaker to engage it. Need to plunge down into it with a bit too, should be oh so fun. The housing itself takes abuse without flinching, but that damn drain plug needs something.
bazzle wrote:Weld an old bearing ring around drain plug so it doesnt round over.
No kidding, I was able to grind the hole in mine square again the first time I changed the fluid, but just last weekend I was swapping in a third member with 4.90 gears and the plug was a mangled mess. Got my Dremel and carbide bit and had another go at it like before, but got carried away and made the hole too big (going to have to take it on out to accept a 3/4" breaker bar) and it's been shaved so short that regardless of the hole size it's just not deep enough to get the breaker to engage it. Need to plunge down into it with a bit too, should be oh so fun. The housing itself takes abuse without flinching, but that damn drain plug needs something.
In search of an MQ (offset) H233b rear, housing only preferred, plus a complete GQ or GU front (4.6 ratio ideal) to be shipped to the US. Cheap! Email/PM if you can help.
XterraGuy wrote:So are the GQ housings known to be weak. I've only dealt with the centered H233B rear, perhaps the extra leverage of the offset housing invites more potential for flex...bazzle wrote:Weld an old bearing ring around drain plug so it doesnt round over.
No kidding, I was able to grind the hole in mine square again the first time I changed the fluid, but just last weekend I was swapping in a third member with 4.90 gears and the plug was a mangled mess. Got my Dremel and carbide bit and had another go at it like before, but got carried away and made the hole too big (going to have to take it on out to accept a 3/4" breaker bar) and it's been shaved so short that regardless of the hole size it's just not deep enough to get the breaker to engage it. Need to plunge down into it with a bit too, should be oh so fun. The housing itself takes abuse without flinching, but that damn drain plug needs something.
i had to weld a short socket extension bar to mine to undo it then fitted a new one and welded a ring of pipe around it to protect it.
my problem was that i had ground most of the plug away and didn't have any Square left on the plug.... my GQ one semed to have a deeper square section than the GU one.
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