Hey peoples,
Its almost time to do a full gear oil change, and would like peoples opinions on what type of oil to use.
Im thinking RedLine for the 'box & t'case which should help cure the notchy when cold gear shifts. As the diff oil is changed more often a less expensive, but just as good product would be the way to go. Dont see the point in spending $150+ for it to possibly be contaminated with water...
Anyone had any experience with RedLine? and what other products can you advice for me to look into?
Cheers
South
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Gear Oil Recommendations
Moderator: -Scott-
Yeah thats all I use for the diffs, gearbox & t/case.
I use the heavier grade for the diffs as it is recommended for difflocks and the lighter 85/90 for the t/case & gearbox.
I Slick 50'd everything (including motor) and it did wonders for my lsd (before the rear locker went in) and freed up the t/case shifts and the 5sp was much improved.
When we pulled apart my t/case you could see where the Slick 50 had penetrated there was hardly any wear on any of the bearing surfaces.
I'm reluctant to recommend oils & additives because it can be an emotional subject but Bimrose and Slick 50 worked for me.
I also use Mobil 1 in the donk which seems to be ok.
The Bimrose isn't cheap (about $7.00/ltr versus about $3.50/ltr) but from my experience it's worth it.
When I got the Paj the t/case was sort of binding and the shifts were very difficult I changed the oil and used some Castrol stuff - didn't make any difference. Then I changed it again to the Bimrose (highly recommended by a mate) and it made a drastic improvement.
I use the heavier grade for the diffs as it is recommended for difflocks and the lighter 85/90 for the t/case & gearbox.
I Slick 50'd everything (including motor) and it did wonders for my lsd (before the rear locker went in) and freed up the t/case shifts and the 5sp was much improved.
When we pulled apart my t/case you could see where the Slick 50 had penetrated there was hardly any wear on any of the bearing surfaces.
I'm reluctant to recommend oils & additives because it can be an emotional subject but Bimrose and Slick 50 worked for me.
I also use Mobil 1 in the donk which seems to be ok.
The Bimrose isn't cheap (about $7.00/ltr versus about $3.50/ltr) but from my experience it's worth it.
When I got the Paj the t/case was sort of binding and the shifts were very difficult I changed the oil and used some Castrol stuff - didn't make any difference. Then I changed it again to the Bimrose (highly recommended by a mate) and it made a drastic improvement.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
what about Amsoil synthetic oils ?
i have been using there 15w40 engine oil for the past 16,000km(with a filter change) and have had the oil tested (@14,000km) with very good results. it showed no reduction in the "total base number' check (which is a measure of how much the oil is breaking down) which is 12 for this oil (it actually came back as 12.3 !).
i will be using the amsoil synthetic oil for my gearbox and diffs when they are due replacement(not long now). they quote 7-10% reduction in fuel economy if everything is running there oil.
the engine oil cost me $120(10ltr)
gear/transfer oil $120
diff oil (limited slip classification) $70
oils should last 100,000km
cookie monster
i have been using there 15w40 engine oil for the past 16,000km(with a filter change) and have had the oil tested (@14,000km) with very good results. it showed no reduction in the "total base number' check (which is a measure of how much the oil is breaking down) which is 12 for this oil (it actually came back as 12.3 !).
i will be using the amsoil synthetic oil for my gearbox and diffs when they are due replacement(not long now). they quote 7-10% reduction in fuel economy if everything is running there oil.
the engine oil cost me $120(10ltr)
gear/transfer oil $120
diff oil (limited slip classification) $70
oils should last 100,000km
cookie monster
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
Hi Guys
This has come up at the right time, as I'm starting to prep the car for a trip, and want to replace the driveline oils.
I'm thinking of trying the Bimrose (on Frank's recommendation - no pressure Frank
) using the 80W90 in the transmission and the Lim Slip 90 in the rear diff. The front locker should be going in within a month 
and that's where I get confused.
I was thinking I'd pack a 5l container of the LimSlip 90 for the trip, and use it in the trans if necessary, but what's the implication for the front locker? The back of a Castrol LSD oil container recommends 140 grade oil for vehicles above 1.5t being used off-road - should I get Lim Slip 140 for the diffs and carry two oils on the trip? Is it possible to get an additive for LSDs - use 85w140 oil throughout, plus additive for rear LSD? Or stick with the original plan of LimSlip 90 for the trip?
Confused
,
Scott
This has come up at the right time, as I'm starting to prep the car for a trip, and want to replace the driveline oils.
I'm thinking of trying the Bimrose (on Frank's recommendation - no pressure Frank
) using the 80W90 in the transmission and the Lim Slip 90 in the rear diff. The front locker should be going in within a month and that's where I get confused.
I was thinking I'd pack a 5l container of the LimSlip 90 for the trip, and use it in the trans if necessary, but what's the implication for the front locker? The back of a Castrol LSD oil container recommends 140 grade oil for vehicles above 1.5t being used off-road - should I get Lim Slip 140 for the diffs and carry two oils on the trip? Is it possible to get an additive for LSDs - use 85w140 oil throughout, plus additive for rear LSD? Or stick with the original plan of LimSlip 90 for the trip?
Confused
,
Scott
I'm no expert, but that Castrol container sounds a bit suss. Pretty much every 4x4 unloaded would weigh in more than 1.5t. If the manual states an 80w90 then I wouldnt use anything with a higher viscosity than that. Would using to 'thick' an oil have an impact on the bearings? Wouldnt the increased viscosity increase 'drag' on the internals and hence require more effort to turn the wheels?
I asked the Bimrose guy a few questions, and he came back with: In almost all cases its better to use the LimSlip 90 over the 80w90, even if its a 'single spinner'. If your 'box is notchy when cold its advisable to try the 75w90 part synthetic gear oil. It its not notchy, then you could just buy 20L of Limslip90 and have heaps left over
You could try using RedLine in the 'box & t'case, its fully synthetic and most people rave on about how good it is. It will cost over $200 to do. But if its only done according to the manual intervals (80k) then you have plenty of time to save
I asked the Bimrose guy a few questions, and he came back with: In almost all cases its better to use the LimSlip 90 over the 80w90, even if its a 'single spinner'. If your 'box is notchy when cold its advisable to try the 75w90 part synthetic gear oil. It its not notchy, then you could just buy 20L of Limslip90 and have heaps left over
You could try using RedLine in the 'box & t'case, its fully synthetic and most people rave on about how good it is. It will cost over $200 to do. But if its only done according to the manual intervals (80k) then you have plenty of time to save
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