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fibre glass body for a 40
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
fibre glass body for a 40
what's the deal with fibreglass bodys and panels are they ok? will a 78 model tub bolt on to an 82 chassis? is it difficult to repaint fibre glass, fix cracks and so on? any info in this area would be great.
gaurds are a bitch, spending heaps of time getting them aligned right.
Did a complete kit on a 40 series bout 5 years ago, kit came from OzEast I think. Right pain in the arze. Doesnt come with any holes drilled or marked except for the chassis mounts. You have to make sure that everything has an earth to the chassis and/or battery. Takes a fair bit to align everything cos the 'glass isnt exact, you need a sh!t load of new bolts to go through the thicker (2-4mm each) panels.
And the fibreglass particles from drilling/filing make you ichy as buggery!
Al
And the fibreglass particles from drilling/filing make you ichy as buggery!
Al
Luv the sound of a diesel,
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
glass bodies
yo simon i built a glass body for my bj a few years back
there's some pics at
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=24472
it is also an oz east kit - all compliant and that is important -
yes the panels are blind but there are shadow holes where to drill and as long as you take your time and have a few clamps, plenty of clamps, you shouldn't go too bad.
i am fairly sure all the mounting points are same dimensions for the 40# chassis'. you only use 6 points in the end and not the eight or ten originals (2front 2 middle 2 rear) and one up the headlight surround which is the most important if you wanna get it straight and looking right.
from what i remember there's 2 different tub models - do you have fuel tank under seat or is it set back a bit. this is the difference and alan (noosa fibreglass) does both. i have plenty of good things to say aboiut his service and his product.
as for strength i challenge anyone to punch it as hard as they can. the fenders panels flex really well and hae come off trees and been surprised there's no stress fractures. it doesn't scratch real easy either but will lose it's colour and fade a bit cause the gelcoat doesn't come up like metal.
the doors yeah are prob the hardest bit cause of the separate panes and such and also lining up the latches and hinges.
and yep you'll end up replacing just about every bolt that hold it together...but you get a real good headstart in the kit..would like to hear if you go ahead with it..
but it is a worthwhile project...
IF YOU LOVE YOUR FORTY
there's some pics at
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=24472
it is also an oz east kit - all compliant and that is important -
yes the panels are blind but there are shadow holes where to drill and as long as you take your time and have a few clamps, plenty of clamps, you shouldn't go too bad.
i am fairly sure all the mounting points are same dimensions for the 40# chassis'. you only use 6 points in the end and not the eight or ten originals (2front 2 middle 2 rear) and one up the headlight surround which is the most important if you wanna get it straight and looking right.
from what i remember there's 2 different tub models - do you have fuel tank under seat or is it set back a bit. this is the difference and alan (noosa fibreglass) does both. i have plenty of good things to say aboiut his service and his product.
as for strength i challenge anyone to punch it as hard as they can. the fenders panels flex really well and hae come off trees and been surprised there's no stress fractures. it doesn't scratch real easy either but will lose it's colour and fade a bit cause the gelcoat doesn't come up like metal.
the doors yeah are prob the hardest bit cause of the separate panes and such and also lining up the latches and hinges.
and yep you'll end up replacing just about every bolt that hold it together...but you get a real good headstart in the kit..would like to hear if you go ahead with it..
but it is a worthwhile project...
IF YOU LOVE YOUR FORTY
www.3rdrock4x4.com
sydney..nope. I move from Qld to deepest, darkest, Mexico, Melbourne.
1 How bad is it
2 Have you fixed fibreglass before
3 yo may laugh but try a boat builder of surfboard shaper.
If you want to give it a go..
if you need something to hold shape cause broken bad - you can use just about anything to do it Eg a sheet of veneer or really thin ply or sheet of plastic/perspex on the backside if its real bad.
a decent repair kit (not the $15 dollar one - heavy gauze on the backside, good amount of resin and a couple of paint brushes)
Then paint the resin on the front side to fill the crack and bring surace back to level.THIN LAYERS
This is where you really test the finer grades of sandpaper.
Do you have trademark rust holes in front section of your bonnet?
The good thing with this is not porous so youll only do it once...
how much is it.....???
http://www.ozeastfibreglass4wd.com.au/index.html
1 How bad is it
2 Have you fixed fibreglass before
3 yo may laugh but try a boat builder of surfboard shaper.
If you want to give it a go..
if you need something to hold shape cause broken bad - you can use just about anything to do it Eg a sheet of veneer or really thin ply or sheet of plastic/perspex on the backside if its real bad.
a decent repair kit (not the $15 dollar one - heavy gauze on the backside, good amount of resin and a couple of paint brushes)
Then paint the resin on the front side to fill the crack and bring surace back to level.THIN LAYERS
This is where you really test the finer grades of sandpaper.
Do you have trademark rust holes in front section of your bonnet?
The good thing with this is not porous so youll only do it once...
how much is it.....???
http://www.ozeastfibreglass4wd.com.au/index.html
www.3rdrock4x4.com
Im here for the sausage!
t
Guys what has everyone paid for the fibreglass bodies??
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
Re: t
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:Guys what has everyone paid for the fibreglass bodies??
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
do a tech couse in Fibreglass, at Tighs hill they have alot of 40 series moulds for panels. I made them with a mate about 12 years ago
If you make them there you only pay for the basic cost of materials, ie $40 for a bonnet.
Go the fibreglass!
Sure there is a bit more work and mucking around invovled with installing a fibreglass tub - drilling holes, extra bolts, etc. but you get to do it how you want the first time. And because you are drilling the holes that are necessary, everything when finished looks surprising less complicated ie less holes everywhere that are otherwise not used.
No matter how well you prepare the body of a metal tub, it will rust again.
Repairs are a piece of piss. I have filled holes drilled with normal bog, which is resin based anyway. The gelcoat does fade eventually, so I advise you paint it. I did mine in acrylic cause cheap and easy for me to do. Scratching the fibreglass itself does take a bit of effort.
Look into the transport requirement side of things though. Rollbar mounts must be structurally fixed to the chassis, and a seating frame incorporating seat belt mounts and mounted to foru bosy bolt points will need to be fabbed. This may also mean a new fuel tank. The overall dimensions of the tubs do vary, and the internal dimension is less than a metal tub. This means new rollbar = new soft top (if required) as these are tailored to every car depending in rollbar configuration. This is for QLD. Engineers approval is needed for the rollbar and seating frame, not the usual "approved persons" inspection dudes. I used Richard Larson of Loadsafe Australia (based near Ferny Grove, Brisbane) His approval of the work was sufficient for QLD Transport - they did not request to see the vehicle completed, as the girl at QT said "Oh, Richard did the approval did he. Well if he is happy with it that is all we need."
I found the guys at OZ East a right pain in the ass, very arrogant and not to mention exspensive!
Call Keith Donaldson on 54295372. He lives near Bribie Is and can do absolutely anything and everything fibreglass. toyo/jeep moulds for everything and he will also do anything one off or custom. Currently he is doing a biking style roof for my 40 with targa style removeable panels and built in overhead console.
Prices:
Tub $3200
One piece tilt front end (icludes gurads, bonnet and option falcon style scoops) $800
Flares $50 pair - availabe up to 6" wide!!!
These are the only producst I have purchased from him. He works form home, and is a genuinely nice guy. For photos of finished product see members section "Project Grumpy Stumpy" I will post pics of tilt from in next day or so.
All I can say is remember the 6 P's - Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance (and will save you dollars too)
Hope this helps Any Q's PM me.
Luke
Sure there is a bit more work and mucking around invovled with installing a fibreglass tub - drilling holes, extra bolts, etc. but you get to do it how you want the first time. And because you are drilling the holes that are necessary, everything when finished looks surprising less complicated ie less holes everywhere that are otherwise not used.
No matter how well you prepare the body of a metal tub, it will rust again.
Repairs are a piece of piss. I have filled holes drilled with normal bog, which is resin based anyway. The gelcoat does fade eventually, so I advise you paint it. I did mine in acrylic cause cheap and easy for me to do. Scratching the fibreglass itself does take a bit of effort.
Look into the transport requirement side of things though. Rollbar mounts must be structurally fixed to the chassis, and a seating frame incorporating seat belt mounts and mounted to foru bosy bolt points will need to be fabbed. This may also mean a new fuel tank. The overall dimensions of the tubs do vary, and the internal dimension is less than a metal tub. This means new rollbar = new soft top (if required) as these are tailored to every car depending in rollbar configuration. This is for QLD. Engineers approval is needed for the rollbar and seating frame, not the usual "approved persons" inspection dudes. I used Richard Larson of Loadsafe Australia (based near Ferny Grove, Brisbane) His approval of the work was sufficient for QLD Transport - they did not request to see the vehicle completed, as the girl at QT said "Oh, Richard did the approval did he. Well if he is happy with it that is all we need."
I found the guys at OZ East a right pain in the ass, very arrogant and not to mention exspensive!
Call Keith Donaldson on 54295372. He lives near Bribie Is and can do absolutely anything and everything fibreglass. toyo/jeep moulds for everything and he will also do anything one off or custom. Currently he is doing a biking style roof for my 40 with targa style removeable panels and built in overhead console.
Prices:
Tub $3200
One piece tilt front end (icludes gurads, bonnet and option falcon style scoops) $800
Flares $50 pair - availabe up to 6" wide!!!
These are the only producst I have purchased from him. He works form home, and is a genuinely nice guy. For photos of finished product see members section "Project Grumpy Stumpy" I will post pics of tilt from in next day or so.
All I can say is remember the 6 P's - Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance (and will save you dollars too)
Hope this helps Any Q's PM me.
Luke
May the best of your past be the worst of your future and it's only illegal if you get caught!
Re: t
Old Yella wrote:DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:Guys what has everyone paid for the fibreglass bodies??
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
do a tech couse in Fibreglass, at Tighs hill they have alot of 40 series moulds for panels. I made them with a mate about 12 years ago
If you make them there you only pay for the basic cost of materials, ie $40 for a bonnet.
I will pay you $500.00 if you go back there and make me 5 bonnets, you can keep whats left over!
Im here for the sausage!
t
POS, I was thinking the same thing...
HMM
OLD YELLA, do you remember who the teacher was etc??
were you in the fibreglass class or metal class??
did anyone ever use the moulds??
im thinking of ringing the teacher and saying hey tiger i buy you some pi$$ and pay for materials if i see a couple of bonnets which are ok...
hell i bet a few of the guys on here with 40s would be eager....
HMM
OLD YELLA, do you remember who the teacher was etc??
were you in the fibreglass class or metal class??
did anyone ever use the moulds??
im thinking of ringing the teacher and saying hey tiger i buy you some pi$$ and pay for materials if i see a couple of bonnets which are ok...
hell i bet a few of the guys on here with 40s would be eager....
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
just found this while looking at the part time welding courses..
http://www.bn.tafe.qld.gov.au/courses/viewpublishtext.php?courseid=2246
then probly this..
http://www.bn.tafe.qld.gov.au/courses/viewpublishtext.php?courseid=3103
http://www.bn.tafe.qld.gov.au/courses/viewpublishtext.php?courseid=2246
then probly this..
http://www.bn.tafe.qld.gov.au/courses/viewpublishtext.php?courseid=3103
Re: t
POS wrote:Old Yella wrote:DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:Guys what has everyone paid for the fibreglass bodies??
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
do a tech couse in Fibreglass, at Tighs hill they have alot of 40 series moulds for panels. I made them with a mate about 12 years ago
If you make them there you only pay for the basic cost of materials, ie $40 for a bonnet.
I will pay you $500.00 if you go back there and make me 5 bonnets, you can keep whats left over!
Mate I aint touchin that shit anymore
I haven't worked in it for 10 years , and after nine years breathin styrene fumes I don't wanna go back to it.
$40 is just what it cost me when I went to tech
Re: t
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:POS, I was thinking the same thing...
HMM
OLD YELLA, do you remember who the teacher was etc??
were you in the fibreglass class or metal class??
did anyone ever use the moulds??
im thinking of ringing the teacher and saying hey tiger i buy you some pi$$ and pay for materials if i see a couple of bonnets which are ok...
hell i bet a few of the guys on here with 40s would be eager....
There are 2 teachers, Phil and Tony, I think theyd prefer you do the courses
if you want any info pm me my wife is a Couse Information Officer for Tafe
Re: t
POS wrote:Old Yella wrote:DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:Guys what has everyone paid for the fibreglass bodies??
if you dont mind my asking... and if ya do too bad! haha.
just curisous what kinda pesos i would be looking at...
do a tech couse in Fibreglass, at Tighs hill they have alot of 40 series moulds for panels. I made them with a mate about 12 years ago
If you make them there you only pay for the basic cost of materials, ie $40 for a bonnet.
I will pay you $500.00 if you go back there and make me 5 bonnets, you can keep whats left over!
POS Tech[Tafe] is not a buisiness designed for mass producing cheap bonnets for buggy drivers. It is a goverment subsidised training facility therefore, interested partys could do a course and for there project [which they will be marked on] build some 40 series panels
Do you want any info for a course
btw I am still doing a tech course, but now in Metal
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