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Rear brake rotors flopping around!?
Rear brake rotors flopping around!?
Can anyone tell me why my rear brake rotors don't seem to fit properly!?
I know this is a little weird but I have noticed that when the rear of the truck is jacked up you can actually move the wheel/tire a small amount either way before the actual rotor moves. It is a little hard to describe but imagine the studs holding the wheel on move but the rotor assembly stays still for about 10mm of movement either foward or reverse. Makes a clunk obviously when the slack is taken up...
It is a concern cause looking at it it looks like it would eventually sheer the studs. I could be wrong. The mechanic had a quick look and is unsure but offered to check it out (of course costing $)
No leaks on the rear diff at all. Wheel nuts always stay tight too.
It is very weird so I hope someone has an answer.
Thanks
Brian
I know this is a little weird but I have noticed that when the rear of the truck is jacked up you can actually move the wheel/tire a small amount either way before the actual rotor moves. It is a little hard to describe but imagine the studs holding the wheel on move but the rotor assembly stays still for about 10mm of movement either foward or reverse. Makes a clunk obviously when the slack is taken up...
It is a concern cause looking at it it looks like it would eventually sheer the studs. I could be wrong. The mechanic had a quick look and is unsure but offered to check it out (of course costing $)
No leaks on the rear diff at all. Wheel nuts always stay tight too.
It is very weird so I hope someone has an answer.
Thanks
Brian
Re: Rear brake rotors flopping around!?
wheelbearing movement?
Ok, had a good look tonight.
Looks like at some stage the truck has run with the wheel nuts loose or the wrong nuts or something and it has worn the studs slightly and marginally elongated the holes in the rotor. Other than this I have no idea. It has been like this ever since I got the truck as i noticed it when I changed wheels...
So new rotors and studs needed
the actuall slop is only about 2 mm but it is exagerated when the wheel is on and the little bit of backlash in the diff gears/axle.
Any ideas on how bad the ass reaming will be for nissan wheel studs?
And can ya get em in without having to take the axle out?
rotors prolly wont be too bad but still money I don't have!
cheers
Brian
Looks like at some stage the truck has run with the wheel nuts loose or the wrong nuts or something and it has worn the studs slightly and marginally elongated the holes in the rotor. Other than this I have no idea. It has been like this ever since I got the truck as i noticed it when I changed wheels...
So new rotors and studs needed

the actuall slop is only about 2 mm but it is exagerated when the wheel is on and the little bit of backlash in the diff gears/axle.
Any ideas on how bad the ass reaming will be for nissan wheel studs?
And can ya get em in without having to take the axle out?
rotors prolly wont be too bad but still money I don't have!
cheers
Brian
Yeah it was a bit scary!!!
I am getting prices for studs and rotors. Would be no good to just get the studs. Definitely no room for skimping in the brake department!!!!
Anyone have any idea what I will be up for $$$ wise?
I would say that the dude who owned the truck before might have used a set of wheels that did not suit and they did not tighten up properly. Or drove around with the wheel nuts loose at some stage???
The only things I can think of really.
If I can get the studs out without taking the axle out then it will be easy to get em back in. Just use a nut to tighten them up and pull em through.
Cheers
Brian
I am getting prices for studs and rotors. Would be no good to just get the studs. Definitely no room for skimping in the brake department!!!!
Anyone have any idea what I will be up for $$$ wise?
I would say that the dude who owned the truck before might have used a set of wheels that did not suit and they did not tighten up properly. Or drove around with the wheel nuts loose at some stage???
The only things I can think of really.
If I can get the studs out without taking the axle out then it will be easy to get em back in. Just use a nut to tighten them up and pull em through.
Cheers
Brian
I cannot get the disks drilled out as that would leave a bigger hole therefore the studs would flop around again more so!!!! Unless you mean fill the holes with weld first but then they would have to make sure everything was lined up exactly when they redrilled
OR redrill and put sleeves in (but I am not sold on this idea at all)
I don't need a new axle I can easily get new studs and replace em.
For $130 it is just never going to be the better option to fuck around doing this shit. Am 99% sure if insurance etc ever found out you had fucked with em then you would be in trouble too!!!
Maybe if they cost $1000 ea you might think about it

OR redrill and put sleeves in (but I am not sold on this idea at all)
I don't need a new axle I can easily get new studs and replace em.
For $130 it is just never going to be the better option to fuck around doing this shit. Am 99% sure if insurance etc ever found out you had fucked with em then you would be in trouble too!!!
Maybe if they cost $1000 ea you might think about it

Last edited by fatassgq on Wed Aug 18, 2004 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
fatassgq wrote:
For $130 it is just never going to be the better option to ***** around doing this shit. Am 99% sure if insurance etc ever found out you had ***** with em then you would be in trouble too!!!
I think its more the fact that your fuckin with your fuckin brakes, and you dont want your fuckin brakes to fuck out when your fuckin flyin down a fuckin hill at fuckin 130 fuckin ks, that would be fucked.
spend the fuckin $ and do it right, its fuckin worth it. Know how you fuckin feel though, its findin the fuckin $ and the fuckin right fuckin time :(
what he meant by drilling 6 NEW holes, was drilling a second set of holes rotated around 30 degrees from the flogged out ones. so you will have a nice new hole NEXT to each flogged out one.
wether or not it is worth it depends on how much meat is left on the rotors before they are at minimum thickness.
wether or not it is worth it depends on how much meat is left on the rotors before they are at minimum thickness.
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