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110 ute chassis shortening legalities

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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110 ute chassis shortening legalities

Post by Nick B »

I Currently have a Defender 110 tdi 1994 Hardtop and a s2a shorty ute (with 33X12.5X15 mongrels, overdrive, C4 auto, 250 crossflow JM locker etc). My delimer is, that the Defender Kicks butt off road but when it comes to rear visability is crap and its to long. Then when it comes to the shorty well it to much had work to drive easpecialy in tight spaces and without Psteer massive tyres crap brakes and the leaf spring haven't been moded yet, plus it has a bigger turning circle than my Defender.

So I was thinking of selling the s2a chorty ute and buying say a late 80's 110 ute with a 4bd1 (Not in a hurry to get anywhere and I like that engine) and then get an engineer to chop 10 inches out of the chassis so it has 100" wheelbase and then take the tray off and just have a bit of barwork at the back.

QUestion is do Queensland laws allow me to register it with a blue plate?

Hope I am not boring people with this question.
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Nick,
PM auto eng on this forum.

He can give you the best and upto date info on this for QLD.

regards
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Re: 110 ute chassis shortening legalities

Post by LRHybrid100 »

So I was thinking of selling the s2a chorty ute and buying say a late 80's 110 ute with a 4bd1 (Not in a hurry to get anywhere and I like that engine) and then get an engineer to chop 10 inches out of the chassis so it has 100" wheelbase and then take the tray off and just have a bit of barwork at the back.


Currently doing this myself, but in NSW.

The engineer I am using said it was not an issue, as long as I sleeved where I join the chassis - so take actually 11" out and have the internal sleeve showing for inspection and then plate all around the outside.

Image

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Post by LRHybrid100 »

Doh, pix didnt work!!!

Have a look at this site for a guide http://www.madbadgers.freeserve.co.uk/ under Hybrid building.

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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Not a problem to approve in QLD, just see an engineer before you start. As mentioned, you will have to plate inside OR outside the chassis, or some engineers may require both. I have seen it sone with two "L" shaped plates outside, or 2 "c" shaped plates like LR uses. Many engineers will only approve it if the welding is done by a certified welder though.

A mate in the Brisbane LR club had his 110 Lengthened from 110" to 130". A place that does truck chassis mods did the work for him for about $2000 drive in drive out, including moification plate, propshaft, wiring, and brake line lengthening.
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Post by Nick B »

thanks fellers, the reason I want to go for a shorter chassis is my 110 Def has gotten the chassis hung up a few times offroad sideways up a hill and has required some tentative hand winching. some thing that a shorter chassis will help prevent but also something that Bill's kicking butt 6x6 would eat up.
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Post by Nick B »

it might in the end to be cheaper to get a new galv dipped 5mm HD chassis. Or get the former built in Oz. Just don't like the chassis getting caught up.
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Post by LRHybrid100 »

Nick B wrote:it might in the end to be cheaper to get a new galv dipped 5mm HD chassis. Or get the former built in Oz. Just don't like the chassis getting caught up.


I priced a gal chassis from the UK, about $6000 landed in AU.

So not a cheap option!!!

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Post by Damo »

LRHybrid100 wrote:
Nick B wrote:it might in the end to be cheaper to get a new galv dipped 5mm HD chassis. Or get the former built in Oz. Just don't like the chassis getting caught up.


I priced a gal chassis from the UK, about $6000 landed in AU.

So not a cheap option!!!

LRH.


5mm? Do you mean the chassis rail material is 5mm thick?

Holy FAWK! :shock:

Maybe i'm just used to my ricepaper zook chassis :D
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Some areas of factory Rangie chassis are 4mm thick.

I would not be at all surprised if the G chassis was 5mm thick (its certainly not under 4mm) - some of the body sill sections are 2mm thick and areas of inner guard are 1.5mm!
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Post by Nick B »

the main chassis rails are 5mm thats atleast 2mm thicker than standard. BUT the big BUT is I bought some series landy stuff off a guy on the southside of Brisvagus couple a weeks back and he custom builds signs and kick A metal things for architec's and the like. he is some kind of Engineer anyway. I happened to ask an off the cuff question what it would cost for him to build me a set of HD Galv dipped Rock sliders and the answer was about $250 , then I said what about a complate chassis from 5mm then galv dipped the answer was couple a thow. so I am getting him to give me a more excact answer now as it may be the cheaper option.

And yes most of the ancillary parts a 3mm on the 5mm chassis from th UK. But just amagine it 5mm. Mmmmmmmmm!
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

5mm Land Rover chassis is complete overkill.

The Land Rover has one of the stiffest chassis around (due to box section construction) and it is only 2mm through most of the cross section. Although they do have angle in all 4 corners where the suspension mounts are and extra plating in places.

There is a lot of work building a new chassis properly, especially with putting all the anti-crush tubes in and that sort of thing.
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Post by one_iota »

How do you register a truck with a handbuilt chassis?

In NSW the chassis needs a number. :? "SAL34527282" etc
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Post by supanovarover »

110 is a good wheel base look at most hilux modified rigs and they extend there wheelbase you should spend the money on a 4 intch lift and some 37s maybe cutting the chassie back in the rear would be a nother option ;)
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Post by CQ Davo »

Have done exactly what you are thinking about 2years ago. Not a problem to get it certified in QLD. I had to plate inside and out (2 L shaped braces ) Mine was a 130 so i lost 27" and went to 100". Saved about half a ton in weight with losing the tray i had as well. I had to have a certified welder who did it for about $220. Cost me around $1000 all up after shortening the tailshaft, blue plate and making a new tray. Had a lot of good mates help me. We drove it in at 7am and drove it out at about 11 that night.
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Post by LRHybrid100 »

CQ Davo wrote:Have done exactly what you are thinking about 2years ago. Not a problem to get it certified in QLD. I had to plate inside and out (2 L shaped braces ) Mine was a 130 so i lost 27" and went to 100". Saved about half a ton in weight with losing the tray i had as well. I had to have a certified welder who did it for about $220. Cost me around $1000 all up after shortening the tailshaft, blue plate and making a new tray. Had a lot of good mates help me. We drove it in at 7am and drove it out at about 11 that night.


Hey Davo, any pix of your D100"?

Currenlty doing the same with a D110 chassis.

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Post by CQ Davo »

Have some pix but none really show the cut. Can take some if you like and get back to you. It's no longer a trayback anymore. Have put a siii body on the back now to make it a bit more usable. Not as good for hardcore 4wd though but you get that.
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Post by LRHybrid100 »

CQ Davo wrote:Have some pix but none really show the cut. Can take some if you like and get back to you. It's no longer a trayback anymore. Have put a siii body on the back now to make it a bit more usable. Not as good for hardcore 4wd though but you get that.


ANY pix would be interesting!!!

Love the wheel travel.

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Post by Nick B »

I would love any pictures of your truck old and recent!!!

I need some inspiration to comit more money and for someone to buy the S2A Shorty ute.

On other things how had in Oz is it to find a salsbury front diff to be made to fit a 110/defender as 35 spline salbury front and rear is my dream.

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Post by DaveS3 »

You won't have a chance at finding a coil sprung front (i think they made them??) but you may be able to find a 101 front, but they are rare as hens teeth. It will also be a drum front.

You may as well try to source a dana 60 and cut it down with the right ratio, and set it up with all the bracketry, or swap a toy third and try to find a dana 60 rear gear set to suit the toy front.

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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Nick B wrote:I would love any pictures of your truck old and recent!!!

I need some inspiration to comit more money and for someone to buy the S2A Shorty ute.

On other things how had in Oz is it to find a salsbury front diff to be made to fit a 110/defender as 35 spline salbury front and rear is my dream.

Nick


Throw a HUGE wad of cash at MacNamara or Mal Story. Macnamara makes 35 spline axles for salisburies and Mal has built a couple of front salisburies for people, using 101 CV's and his special swivel balls (Oh and 101CV's are 21 spline but about the same diameter as 35 spline).

Or import a D60 from the US - $1000US odd for the axle, plus shipping, reconditioning, mods, locker, etc.
Last edited by ISUZUROVER on Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DaveS3 »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
Nick B wrote:I would love any pictures of your truck old and recent!!!

I need some inspiration to comit more money and for someone to buy the S2A Shorty ute.

On other things how had in Oz is it to find a salsbury front diff to be made to fit a 110/defender as 35 spline salbury front and rear is my dream.

Nick


Throw a HUGE wad of cash at MacNamara or Mal Story. Macnamara makes 30 spline axles for salisburies and Mal has built a couple of front salisburies for people, using 101 CV's and his special swivel balls.

Or import a D60 from the US - $1000US odd for the axle, plus shipping, reconditioning, mods, locker, etc.


Why import?
You could source one in Oz for cheaper.
Source one from a OKA tour bus. When cutting in down you could do a hub conversion at the same time to get rid of the 8 stud hub.

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Post by ISUZUROVER »

DaveS3 wrote:
Why import?
You could source one in Oz for cheaper.
Source one from a OKA tour bus. When cutting in down you could do a hub conversion at the same time to get rid of the 8 stud hub.

Dave :D


Yes OKA's do have a Dana 60F (65" WMS front) and a Dana 70 rear, (61" WMS). But I would like to see you find one up for wrecking???

Front D60's are worth silly money here. There is a front/rear 35 spline D60 combo with lockers selling for $10K at the moment. And I have heard that bog stock fronts sell for $3000-5000. It would be MUCH cheaper to find a second hand one in the US and import it.
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Post by DaveS3 »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
DaveS3 wrote:
Why import?
You could source one in Oz for cheaper.
Source one from a OKA tour bus. When cutting in down you could do a hub conversion at the same time to get rid of the 8 stud hub.

Dave :D


Yes OKA's do have a Dana 60F (65" WMS front) and a Dana 70 rear, (61" WMS). But I would like to see you find one up for wrecking???

Front D60's are worth silly money here. There is a front/rear 35 spline D60 combo with lockers selling for $10K at the moment. And I have heard that bog stock fronts sell for $3000-5000. It would be MUCH cheaper to find a second hand one in the US and import it.


I know where i can get a set, just by chance so i thought it may have been easier but obviously not.

5K???? Holy cow...

Oh well, i guess your right at those prices.. :D

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Post by daddylonglegs »

I think our engineer told us ealier this year that as of March 2003 in Victoria it is no longer possible to register a vehicle with a non factory chassis, or even alter the wheelbase on a factory chassis. You can convert from leaf to coils, or vice versa if you wish. you can reduce the overhang, but you cannot extend or shorten wheelbase. Anyone have more up to date knowledge ?
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

daddylonglegs wrote:I think our engineer told us ealier this year that as of March 2003 in Victoria it is no longer possible to register a vehicle with a non factory chassis, or even alter the wheelbase on a factory chassis. You can convert from leaf to coils, or vice versa if you wish. you can reduce the overhang, but you cannot extend or shorten wheelbase. Anyone have more up to date knowledge ?
bill.


Wow - this must be one area where QLD is ahead of VIC. Chassis length (wheelbase) changing is definitely still legal here.

However I know that the rules for body swaps in QLD are now much tougher. All body swaps have to (i.e. landie body on a rangie) have to have full engineering drawings submitted - and I think they may require individually constructed vehicle certification.
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Post by CQ Davo »

With regards to changing bodies ie Rangie chassis with series body. One was just done in Rockhampton. Only blue plate was needed that i know of. Its a tray back however the same guy did one a few years back with a rangie chassis. Lengthened it to 109" and put a series wagon body on it with defender bonet and grille. Again only a blue plate was needed.
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Post by Nick B »

question 1
where do these guys find rangies cheap enough to put under a series truck? As I can find series parts and trucks a dime a dozen.

Question 2
when a we goin to see more pics of that beast D100?

Point 1
F trucks at caboolture recons hea can sell me a D60 front for $4000 ready to chuck under the D110/and or D100 and He then stated he could sell me Engine/gearbox package out of the latest f/trucks ie 7.3lt turbo diesel V8 for the Defender for $8000. Magine that, hmmmmmm.

Point 2
These trucks are putting a huge dint in my plans of getting a boat to test fishing gear in as my paying job requires me to do Fix/design/service/test fishing gear. But Both things are to addictive trucks and Fishing. Some Nights I have nightmares about having to choose between the 2.
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