over heating problem

[eric melksham]

i have a 2.8 turbo diesel patrol 95 model it keeps on over heating when going up hills and when you push it a bit on the flat. I have fited a bran new head with genuine gaskets its got a new 4.2 radiator,genuine nissan viscus fan [new] ,all new hoses ,new genuine nissan thermastat , i overhauled the oil cooler . it has a new gt30 ball bearing turbo fitted overhauled the injector pump and injectors. the vehicle has got 405 000 km on the clock the eng is in good condition still it doesent use oil or any coolant it is serviced every 5000 km . can any one help with this problem

[blackmav]

don't know too much about diesels but could it be a timeing-combustion problem???

[embryo]

not enuf fuel could cause it to overheat, has anyone uped the boost on your turbo? altho it is boost compesated so it should be right, just check if all the fuel system is working corectly, i know they have huge dramas with their heads but i see you've allready had that replaced, how long a go tho?

good luck
adrian

[bru21]

too much fuel? check with a pyrometer should be less than 800 odd, check
if its blowing lots (more than others they all blow some) of black smoke its probably overfueled hence too hot (opposite of pettys)

cheers bru

[carts]

yeah at a first thought you would think that it was overfuelling being a diesel.

No expert on EGT, but I was under the impression that EGT should be below 550 degrees. Or does this depend on the vehicle?

Anyhow, if the pump had been over hauled recently, you would have thought that the fuel levels would have been set accurately.

Perhaps the temp gauge or the sensor is faulty. Start simple. Do you know what boost levels you are running? Perhaps the new turbo is overboosting.

[patrolman]

i've been having the same problem with my 2001 3ltr patrol i was told it is a problem with the ecu it might be worth checking it out. hope you get it fixed soon

[turps]

i've been having the same problem with my 2001 3ltr patrol i was told it is a problem with the ecu it might be worth checking it out. hope you get it fixed soon

No ECU on the GQ 2.8's. Havnt been near water/mud since being put back together has it. As it only takes one puddle to make them over heat sometimes.

[Hobbz]

sorry a bit offtopic, but sometime next week im gonna get my headgasket changed, and i was wondering what you gave for a head ? just so i know what to expect if my head is blown too ....

[MD4x4]

This may sound silly:-

I had a similar problem with an old falcon I had. After replacing the thermostat 3 times on the advice of ford we found that the problem turned out to be the spring loaded seal on the radiator cap being stuffed and not allowing the cooling system to retain pressure.

I see you replaced the radiator. Did you also replace the cap?

May be worth checking.

MD

[PATROLSNIFFER]

This may also sound offbeat ,but I had the same trouble with a 2000 gu td42t patrol wagon.Only on warm days the temp guage would rise slightly and cut the airconditioner out.Was told that the A/C was cutting out due to thermistor protection on bottom of radiator.Had all sorts of remedies reccomended (new larger radiator,viscous fan overhaul ,thermo fan).It ended up being that the air conditioner was overcharged and was actually tripping on high pressure and not overtemp.Dropped the charge and all ok.So I guess you could rule this out by if it occurs only when A/C is on or not.??.

[embryo]

i strongly disagree with bru21 and carts about overfueling id be interested to see your lodgic behind it, more air= more heat. if you were to crank up the turbo on a NON BOOST COMPENSATED vehicle, it runs hotter especialy under load. and id be happy to prove it to any one who wants to come around and see

just to make sure, is it a factory turbo? if not it may not be boost compensated

[ozy1]

i strongly disagree with bru21 and carts about overfueling id be interested to see your lodgic behind it, more air= more heat. if you were to crank up the turbo on a NON BOOST COMPENSATED vehicle, it runs hotter especialy under load. and id be happy to prove it to any one who wants to come around and see

just to make sure, is it a factory turbo? if not it may not be boost compensated

it has a new gt30 ball bearing turbo fitted

i guess its not the standard turbo then??????????

[Daisy]

i strongly disagree with bru21 and carts about overfueling id be interested to see your lodgic behind it, more air= more heat. if you were to crank up the turbo on a NON BOOST COMPENSATED vehicle, it runs hotter especialy under load. and id be happy to prove it to any one who wants to come around and see

just to make sure, is it a factory turbo? if not it may not be boost compensated

it has a new gt30 ball bearing turbo fitted

i guess its not the standard turbo then??????????

GT30 ball bearings are larger turbos.. standard 2.8s run the t25 watercooled garret turbo.


Bit off topic

SO... an aftermarket turbo.. does it make good power???

Back on topic..

Have you bled the radiator hoses?

Obviously with aftermarket turbo, more boost, motors likely to get hotter..
Run some ford AU twinthermo fans.

TOM

[lay80n]

Diesel and petrols are totaly opposite with regards to mixture and overheating. A petrol motor will run hotter when the mixture is lean, where as a diesel will run hot with a rich mixture. Another off topic thought but is the after market turbo heatin the oil up more than the oil cooler designed to handle. The oil flowin through ya galleried in the motor also hasa cooling effect too. Have seen moddified diesels that were having temp problems rectified with oil cooler modds.
Layto....

[bru21]

embryo think of the engine rpm control on a diesel. no throttle butterfly only fuel volume varied. if they got hot when lean they would over heat very quickly at idle or deceleration and cool with increased rpm.

they stop by cutting fuel.

hence they ar the opposite of pettys

[bogged]

i strongly disagree with bru21 and carts about overfueling id be interested to see your lodgic behind it

Diesels suffer to the shithouse with too much diesel getting in. When my Pump and injectors were rebuilt, the dude set the pump too high.. car went like shit off a shovel, LOVED it, but after 2klms the temp gauge was in the Red MAYDAY zone.
back I went, we backed it off slowly until it was acceptable, but the power disappeared. :(


On Topic.

Take it to someone and get the fuelpump set properly for the bigger turbo, IM guessing that if you have changed snails, that your issue lies there..

YMMV

[embryo]

since i posted about under fueling have spoken too many people in the diesel industry because i was led to believe you cant overheat due to too much fuel, and they agree with what i said. it cant burn the fuel hence black smoke, if it cant burn it cant heat.

bru21: this is a turboed vehicle putting more air in under load which is when he is getting hot

but i agree it sounds like the proble lies with your larger turbo, the fuel pump needs to be set according to the amount of boost you are running.

i like the idea of the oil from the turbo overheating it but herd of the KISS theroy

Keep
It
Simple
Stupid
id be turning up the injector pump

[embryo]

since i posted about under fueling have spoken too many people in the diesel industry because i was led to believe you cant overheat due to too much fuel, and they agree with what i said. it cant burn the fuel hence black smoke, if it cant burn it cant heat.

bru21: this is a turboed vehicle putting more air in under load which is when he is getting hot

but i agree it sounds like the proble lies with your larger turbo, the fuel pump needs to be set according to the amount of boost you are running.

i like the idea of the oil from the turbo overheating it but herd of the KISS theroy

Keep
It
Simple
Stupid

id be turning up the injector pump unless it is pissing black smoke and if so get someone to set it properly

[bogged]

do a google search for diesel overfueling.

http://www.bankspower.com/tech_racingthediesel.cfm


While you can make more power with more fuel, if you don’t do it right, exhaust gas temperatures go out of sight and that can spell eventual death for the engine or turbocharger – or both. Many racers seem unaware of the potentially expensive engine damage such modifications can cause, or maybe they just don’t care. Their first consideration is how much power they can add to their diesel pickup. They are willing to assume some risk, and that’s just what you do when you overfuel a diesel. The real secret to big power increases is to add both fuel and airflow to achieve complete burning of the extra fuel (see <First Air – Then Fuel> elsewhere on this site). If you don’t burn the extra fuel, then you’re just overfueling. The telltale sign of overfueling is excessive smoke out of the exhaust pipe, but for a lot of diesel hot rodders, the thick black smoke is a big part of the fun.

The problem with overfueling is that it increases the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) of a diesel, and that can cause engine or turbocharger damage, as mentioned earlier.

If such EGT overtemperature isn’t excessive, and if it occurs for only a matter of a few seconds at a time, most diesels can withstand such abuse without incurring much permanent damage – but there is always some level of risk. Excessive EGT damage is cumulative (see Why EGT Is Important elsewhere on this site).

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_whyegt.cfm

[bogged]

http://www.interstate-mcbee.com/techtip ... m?tipid=15

Causes of Overheating

Overheating can be caused by anthing that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap. Over fueling, timing, over speed or engine lugging will overheat even a good cooling system

[rick130]

but I was under the impression that EGT should be below 550 degrees

it depends on where you take the reading.

If after the turbo, then yes, 550 degrees is probably the upper limit.
The best place is before the turbo, preferably as close to the exhaust valve as possible, which is pretty impractical. Somewhere in the exhaust manifold generally works OK.

Most 'experts' say that the upper limit here is 730-750 degrees, and then not for long.
In our Landy, stock fuelling, the highest I've ever seen is 620*C.
I've heard of stacks of people that 'play' with the pump, love the extra go, then find the truck overheats or worse.


Our Patrol (GU 4.2TD) doesn't have an EGT gauge, and it needs it more than the Rover, as it has had a history of overheating. The jury is still out on whether I've 'cured' it or not.

What has made a vast difference to its performance, and dramatically decreased smoke and crook cold weather performance was running Redline 85 Plus fuel cleaner through it, and using a maintenance dose of 3oz every fill up.
It's just clicked over 120 000km, and pulls and goes better than it ever has.
I've also run an ester based cleaner through the lube system, incase a sludge build up was causing lack of heat transfer.
The cooling system was cleaned out (was OK anyway) new coolant and an additive called Keep Cool, which is a surfactant (reduces surface tension of the water) to help heat transfer.

I'm hoping that with the injectors, combustion chamber and everything else clean, it will be like in the first 18 months of ownership and not overheat when towing in summer.

Rick

[eric melksham]

i have a 2.8 turbo diesel patrol 95 model it keeps on over heating when going up hills and when you push it a bit on the flat. I have fited a bran new head with genuine gaskets its got a new 4.2 radiator,genuine nissan viscus fan [new] ,all new hoses ,new genuine nissan thermastat , i overhauled the oil cooler . it has a new gt30 ball bearing turbo fitted overhauled the injector pump and injectors. the vehicle has got 405 000 km on the clock the eng is in good condition still it doesent use oil or any coolant it is serviced every 5000 km . can any one help with this problem

i have fited new genuine rad cap, the turbo and fuel pump and injectors where all set up when it was fitted. it only runs 14psi as standard is 13psi. the temp sensor is new genuine and i have also fited a new gauge and it reads the same

[eric melksham]

sorry a bit offtopic, but sometime next week im gonna get my headgasket changed, and i was wondering what you gave for a head ? just so i know what to expect if my head is blown too ....

the bran new head cost me around $1200 to $1500 as the whole job cost me nearly $5000 with know labour costs as i am a mechanic my self

[Camshaft1]

[quote="embryo"]since i posted about under fueling have spoken too many people in the diesel industry because i was led to believe you cant overheat due to too much fuel, and they agree with what i said. it cant burn the fuel hence black smoke, if it cant burn it cant heat.

Black smoke is burning fuel!! watch a loaded truck take off from the lights, waddya see? heaps of black smoke.Why? engine is under full load and pump is pumping all the fuel it can down its guts. More fuel = more combustion = black smoke= more power = more HEAT. No wonder race and comp diesels heat up there burning insanly large amounts of fuel!