What do you guys thinks would be better for a discovery.
1. Rear ARB air locker
2. 2" lift and new dampers
The car is a daily driver so I don't want any changes to the way it drives. I am leaning more towards the air locker as I'm quite impressed with the stock suspension anyway and I feel the air locker would be able to push the car through any of the trails that we do anyway.
Does anyone know the insurance implications of either. ie do they increase the cost of insurance by much or is the amount neglible.
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ARB Locker or 2" lift 4 discovery?
Moderator: Micka
Its a 97 SE Discovery V8 Auto. So far the only thing to stop us was a small creek crossing, but that can be put down to not enough momentum. So far we havn't done that much serious stuff but I'm keen on doing some mud runs. Also it takes full throttle and a run up to get up certain dunes. We get close to the top and then the momentum isn't enough to take us over and the wheels are left spining. On the same dunes, cars with locked diffs make it up and at a much slower (and safer) speed.
I replaced my standard springs and shocks because they had reached the end of their useful life (sagging springs and shot shocks) therefore the extra value of a lift and decent shocks has been realised both on and off road. A significant improvement on both accounts.
I'd always start with this. I can get to most of the places I need to go with added confidence because I have a better chance of keeping the wheels on the ground.
When the diffs need replacement I'll do the locker/axle thing.
As for Insurance it depends on the fine print (as usual
)
A recent conversation here:
http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=F ... pic&t=2174
You might need to register before accessing.
I'd always start with this. I can get to most of the places I need to go with added confidence because I have a better chance of keeping the wheels on the ground.
When the diffs need replacement I'll do the locker/axle thing.
As for Insurance it depends on the fine print (as usual
)
A recent conversation here:
http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=F ... pic&t=2174
You might need to register before accessing.
95 3dr 300Tdi Disco,
white, snorkelled, lifted and dash curled.
white, snorkelled, lifted and dash curled.
If your suspension is fine at the moment ie not sagging then I'd say locker as it allows you to drive with more control than without. It can make a dramatic increase in ability far and above that which 2" springs would. The locker will enable you to tackle things without having to do the full throttle and hope for the best approach 
Ransom note = demand + collage
stuee wrote:Also it takes full throttle and a run up to get up certain dunes. We get close to the top and then the momentum isn't enough to take us over and the wheels are left spining. On the same dunes, cars with locked diffs make it up and at a much slower (and safer) speed.
Your running too much pressure. Lockers should make no difference on sand. The Discos are heavy so need more tyres and power. Tyre pressure is really all that matters on sand. Larger tyres allow for lower pressures.
Locker.
You summed it up yourself when you said that the only thing that stopped you was a small creek crossing where you needed more "momentum"
I hate using momentum to get my car where I need to. Momentum causes damage. If you have more lift (more compression travel) you can hit things harder and it will "feel" ok, but you will still be flogging the car to get it places.
Lockers let you slow down and look after the car more, you don't need to use momentum anywhere near as much. this tend to lead to less mistakes, less damage, and as you are driving slower across obstacles, you won't need as much clearance to allow for the bouncing etc.
Sooner or later you will want lockers anyway, but suspension is something that tends to get messed around with a bit as you develop the car- spend the money once - get the locker.
A 2" lift will not allow a meaningfully bigger tyre to be fitted without lowering the bumpstops, cutting the guards or fitting abody lift, so a small lift will not help there.
You add maybe 15% to your capability with a lift, and 100% with a locker.
You summed it up yourself when you said that the only thing that stopped you was a small creek crossing where you needed more "momentum"
I hate using momentum to get my car where I need to. Momentum causes damage. If you have more lift (more compression travel) you can hit things harder and it will "feel" ok, but you will still be flogging the car to get it places.
Lockers let you slow down and look after the car more, you don't need to use momentum anywhere near as much. this tend to lead to less mistakes, less damage, and as you are driving slower across obstacles, you won't need as much clearance to allow for the bouncing etc.
Sooner or later you will want lockers anyway, but suspension is something that tends to get messed around with a bit as you develop the car- spend the money once - get the locker.
A 2" lift will not allow a meaningfully bigger tyre to be fitted without lowering the bumpstops, cutting the guards or fitting abody lift, so a small lift will not help there.
You add maybe 15% to your capability with a lift, and 100% with a locker.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
best options for lockers:
maxi drive around $1800.00
Jacmac similar costs.
Jac mac full hipoid $2800.00 this the best .
Both the maxi and JM come with new axles.
JM hipoid comes with 30 spline axles.
Michael.
maxi drive around $1800.00
Jacmac similar costs.
Jac mac full hipoid $2800.00 this the best .
Both the maxi and JM come with new axles.
JM hipoid comes with 30 spline axles.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Do those prices include fitting or just the locker and axles. I don't think I'm competent enough just yet to change diffs and axles. In the arb catalouge its $1900 fitted.
I don't suppose you'd know who in WA fits the maxis or Jac Mac's do you? or can any differential workshop install them and you just supply them the parts.
I don't suppose you'd know who in WA fits the maxis or Jac Mac's do you? or can any differential workshop install them and you just supply them the parts.
prices not fitted:
ARB can be had for anything from $950.00 to $1300.00 not fited.
with the ARB you will break axles unless very careful. (they donot come with H/D axles)
Michael.
ARB can be had for anything from $950.00 to $1300.00 not fited.
with the ARB you will break axles unless very careful. (they donot come with H/D axles)
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
See WA diff centre [Richard] for fitment.
I fitted an ARB locker & 24 spline Disco axles to my Rangie 5 years ago & never had a problem [ serious 4WDing with a sensible approach ], but mates with same have had axle dramas.
I still think some bigger rubber is the best first step, those pissy 29 inch tyres r the Rover's biggest off-road hinderance, 32's at least should be standard fitment [ ala cruiser, patrol ]
I fitted an ARB locker & 24 spline Disco axles to my Rangie 5 years ago & never had a problem [ serious 4WDing with a sensible approach ], but mates with same have had axle dramas.
I still think some bigger rubber is the best first step, those pissy 29 inch tyres r the Rover's biggest off-road hinderance, 32's at least should be standard fitment [ ala cruiser, patrol ]
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