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MD DriveTerrain for Discovery with 35" Jungle Trekkers

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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Jay
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MD DriveTerrain for Discovery with 35" Jungle Trekkers

Post by Jay »

Feedback about durability and strength of the MD or GBR 4.11 R&P and the MD rear HD 24 spline axles and Front HD and Cv's?
Has anyone broken MD axles on a Disco or Rover with 35" or less with Simex JT or ET?
Thanks
96 Disco Gamel Trophy 36"*12.5 ET'II's, F&R ARB's,4.75 R&P GBR,GBR F&R
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Hi Jay, welcome to the board. The huge font isn't really necessary - we can read it without it - correct spelling and grammer makes more of a difference.

I know a few people in my club running 24 spline maxi-drive lockers and axles, and std 3.54 diffs with 35's.

They break an AEU2522 (heavy duty 110 CV) once or twice a year (and may occasionally break a crownwheel and pinion) but that is about all.

35's are about the limit for rover stuff. You shouldn't have problems with maxi-drive or jacnamara axles but you are about at the limit of the CV's and the diffs.

The toyota hilux diff conversion will strengthen things up, and fitting longfield CV's.
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Jay
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Post by Jay »

Hey Ben
Thanks for the feedback. Is anyone running 35" on a disco with 3.54R&P there is no crawl ratio there I think.
I will be going with HD CV set up from GBR supposed to me stonger than the 110 CV ???
What about the JT II Simex tyres 34*11.5*15 will they be too harsh on the MD/GBR set up?
Appreciate if u can provide some info about the Toy Hiluxconversion and longfield CV's.
My off-roading is on the extreme side ditch and rock crawling ;)


ISUZUROVER wrote:Hi Jay, welcome to the board. The huge font isn't really necessary - we can read it without it - correct spelling and grammer makes more of a difference.

I know a few people in my club running 24 spline maxi-drive lockers and axles, and std 3.54 diffs with 35's.

They break an AEU2522 (heavy duty 110 CV) once or twice a year (and may occasionally break a crownwheel and pinion) but that is about all.

35's are about the limit for rover stuff. You shouldn't have problems with maxi-drive or jacnamara axles but you are about at the limit of the CV's and the diffs.

The toyota hilux diff conversion will strengthen things up, and fitting longfield CV's.
96 Disco Gamel Trophy 36"*12.5 ET'II's, F&R ARB's,4.75 R&P GBR,GBR F&R
83 Rangie 2" OME Still Stock
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Post by HSV Rangie »

swap in the toy diff centres:
you get 30 spline axles almost unlimited diff ratios.

You then can fit longfield chrome moly cv's will run your 35-38 no probs.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

The GBR's seem to be stronger than the standard AEU2522, but there isn't much known about them compared to longfields.

I know one person with a heavy disco and 3.5V8/auto running 35's and 3.54 diffs. The crawl ratio is OK because of the auto. And he may have a maxi-drive low range conversion.

If you search the rover forum for "hilux diff conversion" or something like that you will get all the info.

The JT 34's wouldn't be any more stress on the drivetrain than any other tyre of the same diameter - what is their rolling radius - 35"???
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Post by Jay »

Ben

JT II 34's have a diameter of 34.6". Issue of stress is due to their thread pattern they have much more traction that a 35" equivalent BFG Mud Terrian no?
Couldn't find much about "hilux diff conversion" will my current ARB RD 56 and MD axles fir this conversion or will I have to go with the JacMac 30 splines :?:

Thanks
Jay.
ISUZUROVER wrote:The GBR's seem to be stronger than the standard AEU2522, but there isn't much known about them compared to longfields.

I know one person with a heavy disco and 3.5V8/auto running 35's and 3.54 diffs. The crawl ratio is OK because of the auto. And he may have a maxi-drive low range conversion.

If you search the rover forum for "hilux diff conversion" or something like that you will get all the info.

The JT 34's wouldn't be any more stress on the drivetrain than any other tyre of the same diameter - what is their rolling radius - 35"???
96 Disco Gamel Trophy 36"*12.5 ET'II's, F&R ARB's,4.75 R&P GBR,GBR F&R
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Post by Bush65 »

Jay, change your search to "toy" and forum to search to "rover". You will get lots of matches - some not so useful, but you will find what you want.
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Post by red90 »

If you already have ARBs, MD shafts and AEU2522 CVs then the weakest point is the CVs. The AEU2522s can be "longfielded" and made strong enough. If you have GBR's new custom CV's they might be fine. There hasn't been much feedback on those yet. Since there has not been any feedback, it probably means they are not breaking. Do you know what you have specifcally?

This still leaves you with the Rover R&P, but it is not too bad at 35". I would only worry about it if you went larger.
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Post by Slunnie »

Jay wrote:Ben

JT II 34's have a diameter of 34.6". Issue of stress is due to their thread pattern they have much more traction that a 35" equivalent BFG Mud Terrian no?
Couldn't find much about "hilux diff conversion" will my current ARB RD 56 and MD axles fir this conversion or will I have to go with the JacMac 30 splines :?:

Thanks
Jay.

The ARB wont fit but you can have JacMac make the airlocker to fit the axles.
Cheers
Slunnie

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Post by suzidisco »

has anyone heard of plastic/ nylon axles holders (not sure what they are called the part that bolts the axles to the hub) being made for discos i stumbled across a web site last year i think it was a US site but someone was making them for their equivilint of our hilux at about $15each the idea was that they became the weak point and eiasier to replace than a cv
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Post by Davidh »

Another option is the torque limiting hubs. Don't know if they're still available or what they're like, but people have talked about them before.

That way you could have the ARB/MD diff centre, MD/Jacmac axles, GBR/110 CV's and the torque limiters should prevent any damage, apart from the CW&P.

If you've already got it setup like that, and worried about breaking more, than the torque limiting hubs could be the cheapest option instead of replacing it all with the toyota stuff.

If it's all stock now, and you're still planning, then you'd probably consider the toyota conversion first!

I've got a MD rear and a stock 10 spline front end with 4.11's on an early Disco and have had 35" ET's on for 3-4 months and so far everything has held up fine!

It's a 5sp LT77 and I don't think it would be too driveable on the 3.54's.

Of course I know I'm on borrowed time here...
Snapped an inner axle when I was on 32" muds!
Something in the front end has GOT to go sometime!
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Post by DiscoDino »

Jay,

I'd stick to what you have and get ANY tire but the 35 ETs. I am certain that with your eloquant driving style and your inhibition to use the front ARB your drivetrain will survive - albiet for fatigue issues.

No need to invest in teh Jac Mac stuff.

Nadim
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
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Post by Woop »

[
Snapped an inner axle when I was on 32" muds!
Something in the front end has GOT to go sometime![/quote]

Oh no dont brake anything Dave--i'll have to hear all about it all day at work!! :roll: ;)

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Post by Jay »

any info about having the Cv's longfielded talking about the AEU2522?
David i am surpsirsed you haven't borken anything in the front set up with the 35 ET's? Have u been going through ditches with more weigth on a single axle?

I have currently a 32*9.5 ET's on mydisco and have gone through 2 stock rear axles before going with GBR rear axles and gone through 2 Cv's already(front set up still stock will be going with GBR Cv's and axles)
All this breakage happened in faily ditch crossing and hill clibs with front locker off.

Jay
96 Disco Gamel Trophy 36"*12.5 ET'II's, F&R ARB's,4.75 R&P GBR,GBR F&R
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Post by GRIMACE »

I am currently running Sams Bootyfielded AEU2522 CVs :) they have held up so far and so has the rest of the drivetrain.

I am only on skinny little BFG Muds though in 33". Front end is currently unlocked but I have come down hard on it a couple of times :lol:

As already has been mentioned if you have currently got standard axles and shiznit go the toyota centre conversion with the 30spline axles :)
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Post by Davidh »

"David i am surpsirsed you haven't borken anything in the front set up with the 35 ET's? Have u been going through ditches with more weigth on a single axle?"


I'm really surprised actually! I've been driving the car a little less aggressively since I put on the 35's because I know of the front diff's weaknesses, but when I have had to drive it hard, it's been ok.
I'd say I could have put more weight on a single axle, but it's more likely to have been down hill with no power on it.

I'll keep going the way it is till it breaks (don't we all!) then consider the maxi-drive locker and inner axles, and take my chances with the cv's.
I've heard other people say that with this setup, the outer stub axles will be the weakest point, followed by the cv. A couple of spare stub axles in the back could be a good idea!
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