Replacing the Transfer Case Chain

[1985LWB]

Can the chain be replaced in the transfer case without completely rebuilding the box? Also from what I have read to access the T-Case, you need to drop the the gear box along with the T-Case?

Where can I get shop manuals for the NB and/or KM145? Also has anyone had any experience with any of the CD manuals?

Any advice from anyone who has rebuilt the T-Case or replaced the chain, would be greatly appreciated.

[sascot]

plenty of threads in the history, have a look, most of your questions have been answered

[-Scott-]

When I had the tcase replaced the shop managed to do it without removing the gearbox - they had one guy in the car doing something with linkages, and another under the car heaving on the box. So it is possible.

Cheers,

Scott

[Bitsamissin]

You can do it that way and you have to punch out the selector rail collar locating pin.
It really depends what the chain has chewed up in there when it starts jumping under load. Usually they can be replaced but a new chain is quite a few $$ from Mitsu it maybe cheaper to just bung in a second hander ??
The trick with these chains is to shim them up correctly they don't tolerate hardly any bearing end float otherwise they will stretch and jump the cogs. The Gregory's manual is very good at describing the rebuild procedure particularly the shimming operation.

[1985LWB]

Frank,

Thanks for the advice. I have a Hayne's manual which is extremely general, so I will get a Gregory's manual before I tear into it.

I am not against a second-hand chain except how can I be sure that I do not get a stretched one?

Thanks,

[wolfe]

hi frank

as I told you I didn´t found anything in the mitsubishi handbook about chimming when replacing the chain. I replaced my streched one by a used chain. Can you send me a the discreption of te gregorys manual?
Since I replaced the chain in Jule i didn´t move the car very much because I wanted to changed the frontdiff. But manufactoring the diff last a bit longer. So tomorrow Im going to to pick it up at offrotec. In my opinon the chain in the early T-cases is not strong enough for serious use . So I also bought a Superselect T-case to replace the original.
When Uwe assembled his T-case we could compare the chain of his 3,0 Auto. It is a stronger module and the chaingears are bigger in diameter.

@1985lwb:For this job I think it is impossible to do it under the car especially you when don´t have a lift. The T-case can be removed in half an hour.

[1985LWB]

I just picked up a Gregory's manual, makes the Hayne's look like a preschooler's picture book.

Wolfe, the manual details are this link - http://www.haynes.com.au/category138_1.htm

Interesting that Hayne's now owns Gregory's in Australia, at least.

[Bitsamissin]

Hi Wolfe, I scanned the Gregory's manual on the t/case section.
It is a 3.0 V6 super select 5sp and is 10 pages I will email it to you.
The process is obtaining the output shaft end float the front output shaft end float is less than 2mm and rear output shaft end float is less than 0.5mm.
Spacers are available from Mitsu in 0.5mm increments for the front output shaft and in 0.09mm increments for the rear output shaft.
This is to ensure the chain cogs are perfectly aligned and don't stretch the chain causing it to jump.
And yes the super select chain is much beefier than the early chains, wider with bigger links and they mesh with the cogs more positively.

Frank.