Draining Coolant

[GQAndrew]

Attempted to change the coolant on the weekend. Drained the radiatior by opening the drain plug, got about 5 litres out, emptied the resorvoir, then took off the thermostat housing as I wanted to change the gasket, and noticed that the coolant was still in the block, Now, how would I go about draining the block, I am aware that there is a block plug near the exhaust manifold, but cant seem to get to it, and have also been advised that once its off, you may not get it back in again. Someone suggested dropping the bottom hose, but I cannot see how this will drain the block, as the hose was emptied into the radiator anyway.

Anyone have any suggestions how to do this, although I am thinking of just getting it done by mechanic at next service?

Also, noticed when looking through the thermostat housing into the block, that there is like a redish colour throughout, is this corrosion, and is it normal for a car of this age (92) the coolant was fairly clean, but now I probably have two brands of coolant in there as I had to top up 5L with the new stuff.

Thanks Guys

[bogged]

Someone suggested dropping the bottom hose, but I cannot see how this will drain the block, as the hose was emptied into the radiator anyway.

The way I did it last time (gotta do it again this weekend) is open drain plug, bottom radiator hose and start engine to pump it all out.
The other option which Im considering is to get the complete system pressure flushed properly.

AWILL had it done and all sorts of crap came out even after running a off the shelf flush thru it..

[GQAndrew]

The way I did it last time (gotta do it again this weekend) is open drain plug, bottom radiator hose and start engine to pump it all out.
The other option which Im considering is to get the complete system pressure flushed properly.

Yeh, I thought of this, but someone also advised that you shouldn't run car with no coolant...I cant see the problem when only running for a few seconds?

AWILL had it done and all sorts of crap came out even after running a off the shelf flush thru it..

So the red crap is nothing to worry about?


Thanks for the response. May just get the mechanic to do it, and let me know how to do it next time. He is a friend, so if I supply the coolant, will do it for pretty cheap when i get the car serviced

[bazzle]

Running engine wont drain out all coolant. You must open plug on block. It will go back in.

bazzle

[bogged]

Yeh, I thought of this, but someone also advised that you shouldn't run car with no coolant...I cant see the problem when only running for a few seconds?

1) Its worth going with GOOD quality coolant, it may cost you a few more $, but whats an engine worth?

2) Red shit, will only be rusty shit in the system, which means it would pay to get it done properly... goto a good radiator place to get it done, not a spanner man.

3) Running for few mins IMHO should be fine, Ive done 3 times now.. but theres no warranty on that it will be same for u or any1 else. Just make sure you bleed the system well when you refill it.

[beretta]

Not too sure about Fourbies, but I know with the trucks it's not good to run different brandfs of coolant together as they can react and start eating things ! We had a Kenworth years ago that one of the guys topped up with a different brand of coolant and it started a chemical reaction and ate a few bits and peices here and there!! I wouldn't run two different brands of coolant together if I were you, get it done propperly it is definately worth it.

[grimbo]

also disconnect the heater hoses and run a hose with decent but not high pressure through it so it drains back through the engine and out the bottom hose of the radiator (I think thats right, pretty sure that's what i did on the Zuk) but amazing amount of crud came out when I did that compared to just draining the radiator

[Woop]

12 mm extended socket fits the block drain--located just near the oil regulator valve behind exhaust manifold. Its a tapered fit in the block and as Bazzle said, will go back in fine. Be prepared for coolant to go everywhere when unscrewed though...Its almost impossible to get any in a bucket.

Nick

[GQAndrew]

12 mm extended socket fits the block drain--located just near the oil regulator valve behind exhaust manifold. Its a tapered fit in the block and as Bazzle said, will go back in fine. Be prepared for coolant to go everywhere when unscrewed though...Its almost impossible to get any in a bucket.

Nick

whats the best way to get to it, under the car, or through the bonnet??

[bogged]

whats the best way to get to it, under the car, or through the bonnet??

have a look.. if you can get from above you stay dry if not, drown!
maybe undo it a bit from under, then go above to remove the bolt.. stay dry!

[GQAndrew]

whats the best way to get to it, under the car, or through the bonnet??

have a look.. if you can get from above you stay dry if not, drown!
maybe undo it a bit from under, then go above to remove the bolt.. stay dry!

Will have another look, but couldn't see it from either top or bottom, Ive seen it on a diagram, so know where abouts it is.

[bogged]

Will have another look, but couldn't see it from either top or bottom, Ive seen it on a diagram, so know where abouts it is.

Lettuce no...

[Area54]

You should be able to access the bung from the front passenger wheel arch, using a socket extension. The bung is made of two parts, a steel adaptor that threads into the block, and a brass bung that threads into the adaptor. The head of the brass bung will strip easily if bound up in the adaptor with rust and gunge, easier to remove the whole adaptor assembly, then thread back in later with some ptfe tape.