Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Utemad wrote:I bought an 18mm combination spanner from SuperCheap the other day for $1. I have bought Sidchrome spanners the same size for around $20 mark bit less maybe. Something tells me there is a quality difference between the two
When i bought a complete set of spanners for about $20 i thought how could you go wrong,they are just ring spanners......untill i broke the 10mm so easly.
I have drilled out broken thread taps with resharpened masonary drill bits before, but you need a silicon carbide grindstone wheel, sometimes called green wheels to sharpen them as ordinary grinding wheels won't look at carbide tip tools.
Bill
a cobalt bit will cut the cheezy supercheap easy out. if you can get a left hand cut one, so much the better. take it slow with plenty of lube.
alternatively, is it possible to abandon the hole you have made a mess of, and drill + tap a new one beside it?
even the best "easy-out" type tools are only good for broken studs, not rusted/frozen AND broken studs. when a stud breaks because it was frozen in its hole, the only real solution is to drill it out and re-tap if necessary.
go to a propper fixings place (not Bunnings) and ask if they stock, "Redline" drill bits. these will drill trough case hardened steel and tungsten. if not, try a 'coboalt' drill bit, we used to drill stainless with these all day long. put a bit of wax or dry lube on it when you are doing it and drill at a slow speed.
Cheers Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
Those redline bits look very bling. I noticed the brochure says you can call a 1800 number for an on-site demonstration. Hmmm that gives me an idea......
TuffRR wrote:Those redline bits look very bling. I noticed the brochure says you can call a 1800 number for an on-site demonstration. Hmmm that gives me an idea......
Sounds like your in the shit, theres a couple ways the first is try get a good quality centre punch with a fresh point and try cracking the eezy out which it will , cause its so hard and brittle, as you chip it away pick out the broken bits with a small needle or whatever and a good shot of air with a compressor , keep it lubed with some wd40 ,crc and after a bit of tapping away you will get it out .
Otherwise to drill through it you will have to soften it so that its softer than the drill bit , if you've got a oxy this will be easy No 6 or 8 tip get it to a dull red and let it cool then you will be able to drill it.
one of the biggest problems when using this type of extractor is the pilot hole used to insert the tool. if this is fractionally off center you are farked. this puts an uneven torque on the tool, resulting in a shatter. even the best tools go this way. the hard part is using a magnetic or similar base for the drill and ensuring a vertical true center hole. this is very hard to do on an ali base, with the broken surface of the busted bolt looking like the surface of the moon.
i learnt this leson the hard way from working on 400 4's (motorbikes) had to strip an entire engine down to remove a 10 pence bolt on a crank case.
TuffRR wrote:NAM - what did they do to fix it? and how much?????
since it was the last straw in what was an increasingly uphill battle, i threw in the towel and sent it to toorak tractor. they did that and some other work and charged me and arm and a leg.
well dude if u were here in the west we could of got it out for u , like piece of piss, u need to find sumonw with a spark eroder, will get it out in no time.., oh and if ya use 1 of these flash tungsten drill bits u gotta run em flat out and i mean flatout!!, with an intermitent motion and no lube...
i recon most tradies have their first set somewhere (scattered everywhere). up grade to better tools over the years and the superseeded starting set will last forever
its not so much knowing what not to skimp on, just knowing what is sh%$ and what to avoid with a laugh, and a what dick would buy that - only to get it for a pressie from those that should know you better - than to buy you 3 sets of pliers that half moon when you cut speaker wire!
ADHD Racing would like to thank Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Easy outs are a tool designed by Satan to cause untold frustration.... Actuually, they do have their place in the world, but they don't like corrosion frozen fasteners.
Know anyone good with a MIG welder?
After having spent a number of years owning an exhaust shop, welding the little buggers out is definitely the best way.
If you are any more than five mm down the hole, you are in trouble tho.....
The bolt is flush with the surface so welding may be an option, although its only a 5mm wide bolt so i would think that if it was welded, the person would need to have good hand control. That counts out everyone i know with a mig.
Update of sorts: I sent an email to Supercheap yesterday explaining my situation. I received a call this morning from them asking what they can do to rectify the situation. The bloke was very helpful and suggested that i get some quotes as to what it will cost to repair. They have not admitted liability (fair enough) but said that if it was the fault of their product they would do whatever they could.
We'll see how this pans out but for the moment, big thumbs up to Supercheap. They contacted me very promptly and look to be trying to do the right thing by their customers.
TuffRR wrote:The bolt is flush with the surface so welding may be an option, although its only a 5mm wide bolt so i would think that if it was welded, the person would need to have good hand control. That counts out everyone i know with a mig.
If its flush you will pretty much get it out with a welder. This is prob going to be your only option because everything else is liklely to damage the alloy casting of the block.
Go to a bolt place and buy a few washers with a hole slightly smaller than the bolt but with as large an outer diam as you can get. Then get a few nuts that are not big enough to fit completly over the washer.
Take the washer and sit it carefully on top of the broken bolt. This is why you want one thats got a hole smaller than the bolt. So you are not going to weld the block as easily. But only the broken bolt to the washer. You also use the washer rather than a nut because its easier to weld in the perfect spot than trying to do this down through the nut. Then after welding the washer to the bolt. Sit the nut on top of this and you can weld down the centre of the nut so it attaches to the washer. Let it cool for a minute at least then you should be able to undo this. This is as long as you originaly welded the washer to the bolt enough. If not it will just come apart but this is why you bought more than one washer and nut Just try it again.
I would say the broken bolt didnt break because it was frozen in the block. Knowing that bolt its weak and it was prob too long and bottomed out in the hole.
OK, i am not to sure if anyone else has said this as i got sick of reading all the replys!
THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY OF GETTING IT OUT!!!!
You will need to take it to a egineering firm that does a lot of machining work on LARGE jobs, they WILL HAVE a device that they use to disintergrate (sp?) broken taps. It is very accurate and quite slow, however when used properly it will eat away the broken tap/easyout and leave the thread un-touched!
It's not a hand held device, its usually attached to a Bench/radial Drill or Milling machine. Its uses water and a electric current, their is a small hollow electrode that the water is pumped threw and a electric current is passed threw it, the end of the electrode hits the top of the easyout/tap and the electric "spark" will slowly eat it away.
I did this for many years and if i had the equipment could have it looking like new in a matter of minutes! A decent machine shop would (should) probably do it for a carton or two.
This is how the place that NAM mentioned most likely would have done it!!
Like i said many of the other options like Tapping it with a fine pin punch or welding a nut to the top will work 50% of the time! One thing to remember is to make sure you are turning the easyout the RIGHT way (CLOCKWISE)
Yes but first you would want and get the "Super Cheap" easyout OUT (tap it around clockwise will loosen the EASY OUT), then get a decent Easy out and then have another go at getting the bolt out (anti clockwise with the new easyout)!
If the engine is in the car it would not be any problem for a decent machine shop, most radial arm drills will have a 3 metre swing on them. Just drive in beside it and swing the arm around!
Yes it may be expensive (or maybe not) but at the end of the day if all else fails this is really the only choice!
And all my tools have their own place,so I know when they are missing 
Just try it again.
try the thread doctor... not cheap though.
