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Heating Clutch Slave Cylinder
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Heating Clutch Slave Cylinder
Does anyone have the problem with their exhaust (v6 or v8 or 4cyl with pipe near cylinder) heating up their slave cylinders??
Once I have been driving for awhile, it is difficult for me to go from neautral to 1st and from 2nd down to 1st due to the exhaust heat boiling my fluid and hence reducing the effectiveness of the hydraulic system.
Am thinking bout going to a clutch mob...but thought I would ask here first. I have moved my metal pipe away from the exhaust as much as possible, is just the cylinder is really close to the exhaust. The pipe is as far away as it can possibly be, as I designed the exhaust myself. Is v6 Chev.
Mate with same motor has this problem also, however another one who had a commo v6 didnt. Is there a difference??
Thanks,
Damien
Once I have been driving for awhile, it is difficult for me to go from neautral to 1st and from 2nd down to 1st due to the exhaust heat boiling my fluid and hence reducing the effectiveness of the hydraulic system.
Am thinking bout going to a clutch mob...but thought I would ask here first. I have moved my metal pipe away from the exhaust as much as possible, is just the cylinder is really close to the exhaust. The pipe is as far away as it can possibly be, as I designed the exhaust myself. Is v6 Chev.
Mate with same motor has this problem also, however another one who had a commo v6 didnt. Is there a difference??
Thanks,
Damien
Don't let you mind wander...it is too little to be out there by itself.
I had this problem once, but think it was contamination in the fluid, and the contaminant (maybe water?) was boiling, not the fluid. The clutch would go to the floor when it got really hot.
I bled the system and replaced the fluid - that solved the problem.
Otherwise - try Castrol SRF (silicone racing fluid) - has a higher boiling point - but $$$$$$$$$$$.
Otherwise fit a heat shield.
I bled the system and replaced the fluid - that solved the problem.
Otherwise - try Castrol SRF (silicone racing fluid) - has a higher boiling point - but $$$$$$$$$$$.
Otherwise fit a heat shield.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Yeah, I agree with changing the fluid. Brakes get damn hot without boiling off. If you're exhaust is that hot, you've got worse problems than a clutch that won't work!!!
Seriously, brake fluid is hygroscopic, ie absorbs water. Since water boils at 100C, it creates vapour in the line. It takes a lot to compress a gas.
Brake fluid can absorb I think around 1/2 its own volume in water. Using an old bottle of fluid that's been lying around open for a while can be bad, even if it looks ok
Seriously, brake fluid is hygroscopic, ie absorbs water. Since water boils at 100C, it creates vapour in the line. It takes a lot to compress a gas.
Brake fluid can absorb I think around 1/2 its own volume in water. Using an old bottle of fluid that's been lying around open for a while can be bad, even if it looks ok
heatwrap
If you cant get that peice of pipe hpc coated, just put some thermal wrapping over it, use it liberally,then
Attach the heat sheild to the cylinder not the exhaust,
Change the fluid as sugested with high performace stuff, but make sure every drop if the old fluid is GONE, it will make heaps of difference, The Disks on one of my vehicles gets to a pint where they glow red and still wont boil good fluid, fark i have a brain numbing moment trying to remember what i use, ultra blue or something.. DAMN>>>>
Jes
Attach the heat sheild to the cylinder not the exhaust,
Change the fluid as sugested with high performace stuff, but make sure every drop if the old fluid is GONE, it will make heaps of difference, The Disks on one of my vehicles gets to a pint where they glow red and still wont boil good fluid, fark i have a brain numbing moment trying to remember what i use, ultra blue or something.. DAMN>>>>
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
If you live up in 'tropics' you're supposed to flush & replace your brake fluid every 6 months due to it being hydroscopic. This is compared to 12 months down south.
Cheers,
Al
Cheers,
Al
Luv the sound of a diesel,
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
I'm not that illiterate when it comes to mechanics. Did my own engine conversion Not that it's difficult for a carb car considering no computer What's more, is that it passed first time
Have changed fluid probably 3mths ago when replaced Clutch master. Am going to try wrapping exhaust.
Have changed fluid probably 3mths ago when replaced Clutch master. Am going to try wrapping exhaust.
Don't let you mind wander...it is too little to be out there by itself.
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