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My sick 3.5efi
Moderator: Micka
My sick 3.5efi
Well after abit of thinking and getting pissed off I have come to the conclusion that i deffinately should never have bought my 89 range rover
I think my 3.5 is in bad shape, under the oil cap I can scrape out grime (black charcoal) with my fingers, if its not run for abit black shit comes out the exhaust and spatters on the ground......
Its stalls all the time now (Auto) timing is out the window (IMHO).
this car is hardly used but its just not happy the way it is...... I am absolutely sick of it stalling on me (specially offroad) and I am starting to think that Toyota 4L V8 and auto conversion wasnt such a bad idea (as i already rebuilt the ZF auto).
Hmm what do i do blow it up ? ? ?
not happy
Anthony
I think my 3.5 is in bad shape, under the oil cap I can scrape out grime (black charcoal) with my fingers, if its not run for abit black shit comes out the exhaust and spatters on the ground......
Its stalls all the time now (Auto) timing is out the window (IMHO).
this car is hardly used but its just not happy the way it is...... I am absolutely sick of it stalling on me (specially offroad) and I am starting to think that Toyota 4L V8 and auto conversion wasnt such a bad idea (as i already rebuilt the ZF auto).
Hmm what do i do blow it up ? ? ?
not happy
Anthony
Dude,
What have you looked at to fix it ? - Anything ?
Stalling in drive - does it idle too low - have you check the timing with a timing light ?
Get the injectors cleaned and change the fuel filter , reset it all to factory - reset the base idle - dump the oil and run some rx super through it for 4000K and flog it on the freeway to de-carbon it - run some upper cyl lube in a tank. Clean the butterfly, make sure the vac-advance line isn't blocked - clean your flame traps and DRIVE IT.
Before you blow it up - give it to me or get someone to look at it
Tom
What have you looked at to fix it ? - Anything ?
Stalling in drive - does it idle too low - have you check the timing with a timing light ?
Get the injectors cleaned and change the fuel filter , reset it all to factory - reset the base idle - dump the oil and run some rx super through it for 4000K and flog it on the freeway to de-carbon it - run some upper cyl lube in a tank. Clean the butterfly, make sure the vac-advance line isn't blocked - clean your flame traps and DRIVE IT.
Before you blow it up - give it to me or get someone to look at it
Tom
come and get it biatch
I have tried the lubricant and I have given it a floggin on the highway, I am asuming its something alittle more now as you may or may not have noticed my thread on fuel consumption some time ago I think she is getting very sick.... if the fuel consumption wasnt so bad I would hold higher hopes but I really think the poor thing just couldnt handle the offroad environment
Its got a new fuel filter and i have got them injectors I mentioned to you about b4 I am just waiting on a 3.9 fuel rail to adapt it all..... Also am getting intouch with a MegaSquirt.
I just though i would let you people know about my sick 3.5 and i wasnt really gonna blow it up I am considering a full rebuild along with a 4.9 stroker kit but thats just more money
After I get the fuel rail and injectors in who is a good V8 (or rover) engine tuner in the gold coast area ? ? ? and how much do these fellas usually charge ? ? ?
Also ragin rover - the timing was checked about 3000Ks ago and according to the checker it was fine I am starting to think that may not have been the case
I have tried the lubricant and I have given it a floggin on the highway, I am asuming its something alittle more now as you may or may not have noticed my thread on fuel consumption some time ago I think she is getting very sick.... if the fuel consumption wasnt so bad I would hold higher hopes but I really think the poor thing just couldnt handle the offroad environment
Its got a new fuel filter and i have got them injectors I mentioned to you about b4 I am just waiting on a 3.9 fuel rail to adapt it all..... Also am getting intouch with a MegaSquirt.
I just though i would let you people know about my sick 3.5 and i wasnt really gonna blow it up I am considering a full rebuild along with a 4.9 stroker kit but thats just more money
After I get the fuel rail and injectors in who is a good V8 (or rover) engine tuner in the gold coast area ? ? ? and how much do these fellas usually charge ? ? ?
Also ragin rover - the timing was checked about 3000Ks ago and according to the checker it was fine I am starting to think that may not have been the case
AnthonyP wrote:ow and my pitiful excuse for aircond needs regassing and the belts are farked
Find the ac leaks first mate then gas her up otherwise you are just wasting time and $$, look at all the fittings and check for oil and crap building up around them - that is a sure fire sign the crimps are farked
I just replaced all the ac hoses in my '91 and had it vacced out and gassed back up - goes like a champion now
Tom
All the symptoms you describe sound like the Lucas EFi is having a heart attack - but let's face it, they never work properly from the factory!
Sounds like it's running too rich (hence all the soot / black crap about the place) among other things.
The flapper AFM isn't really happy off road - the flap flaps about (gee, who would've thought it?) which confuses the ECU into thinking there's either more or less air going in than there actually is - so it goes rich/lean/rich/lean.
I can't see any benefit to fitting the 3.9 fuel rail etc. it's all bascially the same kit. Upping the pressure, swapping the injectors etc. is just hiding the lameness of the ECU and the fact it's not fuelling correctly.
Stick a proper ECU on, with a lambda sensor (wideband if you're feeling really saucy) and then you can finally *see* what your engne is doing and tune it *properly*. Only then can you reach true enlightenment
Sounds like it's running too rich (hence all the soot / black crap about the place) among other things.
The flapper AFM isn't really happy off road - the flap flaps about (gee, who would've thought it?) which confuses the ECU into thinking there's either more or less air going in than there actually is - so it goes rich/lean/rich/lean.
I can't see any benefit to fitting the 3.9 fuel rail etc. it's all bascially the same kit. Upping the pressure, swapping the injectors etc. is just hiding the lameness of the ECU and the fact it's not fuelling correctly.
Stick a proper ECU on, with a lambda sensor (wideband if you're feeling really saucy) and then you can finally *see* what your engne is doing and tune it *properly*. Only then can you reach true enlightenment
[url=http://www.juracid.co.uk/lr]109 in a million pieces - it shall rise again![/url]
Since Aquarangie is out of action, I have been trying to get Dad's 88 Rangie running right. After a bit of fiddling with the fuel/air mixture screws (one on AFM and the other near the throttle body) it runs better than it has for the 5 years Dad has owned it
Also doesn't stall when idling and no rough running. It's a matter of patience and a bit of process of ilimination, before you go blow it up
In all honesty, the L-Ject Lucas EFI system is awful and must be destined to the scrapheap once it drives you nuts.
Good luck with it.
Trav
Also doesn't stall when idling and no rough running. It's a matter of patience and a bit of process of ilimination, before you go blow it up
In all honesty, the L-Ject Lucas EFI system is awful and must be destined to the scrapheap once it drives you nuts.
Good luck with it.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
it has driven me nuts and its new nesting place in the scrap heaps has already been made... now to get the megasquirt underway and lucas outta the way
Last edited by GRIMACE on Mon Oct 04, 2004 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
mickrangie wrote:i'll give you 50 for the rangie as is!!
U seem more like a Toyota person from what i hear......
50 what ................ shirt buttons........meat pies..........blow up dolls AKA Peggy
and no I wanna stick with lr/rr, I like them just not there strength/electricals
The custom/tech knowledge for rovers absolutely pisses all over the other makes And in a wierd way i like reading all the shit that makes my head hurt (cause its all jibersih to my dormant brain)
Anthony, have you even had your POS on a gas analyzer.... have you spent any money at all at a mechanic or someone who knows about engines... It seems to me you have no clue as to what is even the cause of your problem...
My advice would be to get someone to look at it and at least diagnose the problems you have... at the moment you have no clue what is wrong and even less of a clue on how to fix it...
Pay some $$$$ and get if fixed if you can't do it yourself.
My advice would be to get someone to look at it and at least diagnose the problems you have... at the moment you have no clue what is wrong and even less of a clue on how to fix it...
Pay some $$$$ and get if fixed if you can't do it yourself.
Try and pick a good one though, I had my central locking and immobiliser fitted by a reputable mechanic over at Crows Nest. This is all good and works a treat. No more key in the door shite.....
And I asked them to diagnose the injection system to see what was wrong with it.
They said they couldn't because of the Rover's electrical set up. Never heard such a crock in my life.
Bastard made me get dirty figuring it out myself..........
And I asked them to diagnose the injection system to see what was wrong with it.
They said they couldn't because of the Rover's electrical set up. Never heard such a crock in my life.
Bastard made me get dirty figuring it out myself..........
Hey..... I am allowd to do my own piss fart arsing around...... i fixed it myself last time
Remember this vehicle isnt really a daily driver hence why I dont bother doin things straight away.... if i pay someone else to do it I will never learn I knew almost nuthing about rangies when i first got mine but know I feel comfortable working on just about the whole thing by myself, the only thing I am yet to cover is the electrical side of things.... and just exactly what does what in and around the engine bay.
This thread isnt really ment for help its just to let you know that my POS is a POS
Once i get the mega squirt in I am looking to do the cam and timing and having the whole thing tuned properly, but I need to wait as the month of october is a mega killer on my $$$$ situation.
I just got back from a boys trip away to coffs harbour and this thursday we leave for Airlie beach for more party..... then I have a soccer presentation/party the weekend after..... which is followed by indy ($$$$$$$$$) and then hopefully get to go to the OL Wild Weekend 2004 at the end of the month
After october i will be back to saving some pennies for the RR
Remember this vehicle isnt really a daily driver hence why I dont bother doin things straight away.... if i pay someone else to do it I will never learn I knew almost nuthing about rangies when i first got mine but know I feel comfortable working on just about the whole thing by myself, the only thing I am yet to cover is the electrical side of things.... and just exactly what does what in and around the engine bay.
This thread isnt really ment for help its just to let you know that my POS is a POS
Once i get the mega squirt in I am looking to do the cam and timing and having the whole thing tuned properly, but I need to wait as the month of october is a mega killer on my $$$$ situation.
I just got back from a boys trip away to coffs harbour and this thursday we leave for Airlie beach for more party..... then I have a soccer presentation/party the weekend after..... which is followed by indy ($$$$$$$$$) and then hopefully get to go to the OL Wild Weekend 2004 at the end of the month
After october i will be back to saving some pennies for the RR
up2nogood wrote:Try and pick a good one though, I had my central locking and immobiliser fitted by a reputable mechanic over at Crows Nest. This is all good and works a treat. No more key in the door shite.....
And I asked them to diagnose the injection system to see what was wrong with it.
They said they couldn't because of the Rover's electrical set up. Never heard such a crock in my life.
Bastard made me get dirty figuring it out myself..........
There are a few anti rover mechanics about I have met more than one
And now that you mention the central loocking well thats playing up too only the passenger side front door thou. And now mentioning the passenger side door the power window on that same door plays up aswell told you my car is a POS
And mentioning power windows well the switch panel in the console is broke so i removed it and have been meaning to put in another that I have sitting on the floor, and the console is broke too... its cracked and falling to bits.... see one thing to another
Ow and my speedo is still broke but thats why I have a GPS
disco200tdi wrote:Sounds like you really NEED a Tdi engine. Just turn the key and go. 1st time every time.
There is a ripper quote - post back after your engine has done about 300,000K and see if it still starts They all die a truely spectacular
death i.e cracked pistons that eventually disintegrate. Or you injector pump will poo its pants - that will knock the backside out of your fuel savings !!
But if you offload it before then you should stay ahead of the game
and end up being cheaper than a V8.
Tom
Get your Rangie going properly first before conquing the wild younder There is nothing worse than breaking down trackside. Been there, done that more times than i would of like to Also not a good idea about driving your Rangie with a busted speedo as the chance of getting pulled over are likely these days.
Try some Lanolin oil on your electric window switches before you spend unnessacary money on motors, etc. The terminals are probably covered in all sorts of shit and need a good clean.
If this doesn't work, try the motor itself. I gotr my LHS window motor to work with a good soaking of lanolin and the bastard was seized solid The lanolin oil comes in a spray can and costs $12 at Supercheap (may be on special this week). It took a bit of persuasion and a few hours after work one day to get it going, packed it with fresh grease and it works like a champion now
Good luck with your tuning woes.
Trav
Try some Lanolin oil on your electric window switches before you spend unnessacary money on motors, etc. The terminals are probably covered in all sorts of shit and need a good clean.
If this doesn't work, try the motor itself. I gotr my LHS window motor to work with a good soaking of lanolin and the bastard was seized solid The lanolin oil comes in a spray can and costs $12 at Supercheap (may be on special this week). It took a bit of persuasion and a few hours after work one day to get it going, packed it with fresh grease and it works like a champion now
Good luck with your tuning woes.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
sounds to me like the vaccume advance is crap ... poor fuel consumption can be a result of bad timing ... as you said it is ... rich mixture and no advance ... check it first ...
after plaing with my fuel and ignition maps it is easy to see what effect they have on the vehicles performance ... for $740 bucks you can get a really good wide band o2 sensor and digital read out ...
and if you cant do that i will give u 300 bucks for it ...
cheers
RANGEE
after plaing with my fuel and ignition maps it is easy to see what effect they have on the vehicles performance ... for $740 bucks you can get a really good wide band o2 sensor and digital read out ...
and if you cant do that i will give u 300 bucks for it ...
cheers
RANGEE
Virgins !!!
someone has to go first !
someone has to go first !
Rangee wrote: for $740 bucks you can get a really good wide band o2 sensor and digital read out ...
Tell me for that sort of money you get a programmable ECU that can adjust fuel and timing as well!!!!
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
740 bucks for a wideband O2 kit???
Try looking here:
http://www.wbo2.com/
Or if you're feeling really rich, here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
Still nowhere near 740 bucks though, that's shocking!
I would say that if you're a bit new to all this tuning lark a wideband would be a good investment, with the upcoming new software for MS (and the MS-II upgrade) you will be able to set the mixture for it to automatically tune towards right across the map. With a nomal O2 sensor you can only tune to 14.7:1 and then hve to get the calculator out to go richer / leaner. Not difficult, just not as easy as the WBO2 option
Try looking here:
http://www.wbo2.com/
Or if you're feeling really rich, here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
Still nowhere near 740 bucks though, that's shocking!
I would say that if you're a bit new to all this tuning lark a wideband would be a good investment, with the upcoming new software for MS (and the MS-II upgrade) you will be able to set the mixture for it to automatically tune towards right across the map. With a nomal O2 sensor you can only tune to 14.7:1 and then hve to get the calculator out to go richer / leaner. Not difficult, just not as easy as the WBO2 option
[url=http://www.juracid.co.uk/lr]109 in a million pieces - it shall rise again![/url]
[/quote]Try looking here:
http://www.wbo2.com/ [/quote]
Jeezus, where the hell does that plug into the MS unit!?
http://www.wbo2.com/ [/quote]
Jeezus, where the hell does that plug into the MS unit!?
Last edited by up2nogood on Wed Oct 06, 2004 9:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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