Stuck Gearbox Filler Plug

Post by **Squik** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 8:45 am

The filler plug for my gearbox (Jimny) is wedged in tight. I have tried everything short of drilling it out to get it loose.
I've been told not to use a ratchet gun by a mechanic as it may crack the case if it's well and truly stuck that hard.
Any suggestions on getting it loosened?
I've basically destroyed half my tool box in my attempts.

Post by **up2nogood** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 8:59 am

Go and shout yourself a half inch drive 'breaker bar' and use that. Get a good brand, otherwise it may snap. Sidchrome should be OK.

Squirt a bit of penetrating lube on the thread and leave overnight. Give it a go in the morning. It's unlikely you will break the case.

Can't remember if they are a nut or a hex drive tho.....

In extreme cases you may need to heat the nut with an oxy and then let it cool down before doing the lube thing.

Post by **RaginRover** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:57 am

Rattle gun - set it on 1 reverse and go gently

Tom

Post by **grimbo** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:06 am

try applying cold to it ie put some ice or better yet dry ice on to it. Or you could try some heat (just don't melt it). Basically by doing this you will effect the tension on the thread hopefully breaking the seal making it easier to get out

Post by **ludacris** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:15 am

Had that sort of problem once so out came the jack a good breaker bar and socket.Aswell as chain to hold everything were it needed to be. Be very [b]carefull [/b]as there will be a lot of tension built up as you could be lifting the car until it lets go. It worked to.

Post by **Clint** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:31 pm

It may sound silly and/or stupid but are you turning it the right way?
Anticlockwise to undo.

Post by **grimbo** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:04 pm

righty tighty
lefty loosey

Post by **2car** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:04 pm

Impact drivers usually have a 1/2 inch drive. Put a socket on one and give it a good whack. Do the overnight penetrating oil thing beforehand.

Post by **XterraGuy** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 3:56 pm

Worse comes to worse, if it's a top-mount shifter, you can just pull up the boot and unbolt the linkage plate from the top and pour the oil in that way, but it's kinda tough to determine when it's "full" when you do, be sure to put in the specified amount. Same trick is used by the Nissan folks on the FS5R30A transmissions that don't have proper capacity and need an extra quart of fluid to prevent a bearing from insufficient lubrication...

Brent

Post by **-Mick-** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:03 pm

grimbo wrote:righty tighty
lefty loosey

A guy at work said that to me today :lol:

Never heard it before and initially had no idea what he was on about :lol:

Post by **up2nogood** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:07 pm

He wasn't behind you with his hands on your shoulders, was he? :shock:

Just kidding! Couldn't resist!

Post by **-Mick-** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:10 pm

up2nogood wrote:He wasn't behind you with his hands on your shoulders, was he?

Just kidding! Couldn't resist!

not on my shoulders

Post by **bru21** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:22 pm

hile the docter was examaning your prostate -

he had his left hand on your left sholder.......
no he had his right hand on you right sholder.....
good god he had both hands on your sholders :shock:

Post by **christover1** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:54 pm

XterraGuy wrote:Worse comes to worse, if it's a top-mount shifter, you can just pull up the boot and unbolt the linkage plate from the top and pour the oil in that way, but it's kinda tough to determine when it's "full" when you do, be sure to put in the specified amount. Same trick is used by the Nissan folks on the FS5R30A transmissions that don't have proper capacity and need an extra quart of fluid to prevent a bearing from insufficient lubrication...

Brent

Thats how I have been doing my Sierra box for over a year, for same reason. Its a bugger of a place to reach with tools or oil bottles. I just add the recomended amount of oil through the gearstick. the drain hole is usualy fine, because its easier to get at... christover.

Post by **Charlie** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 5:14 pm

I had that problem with my Vitara which I discovered AFTER draining the oil :cry:

.Anyway I ended up rounding out the plug and it still didn't move so I don't think brute force is the way to go.If you have a arc welder you might try holding the electrode on the plug for a while to heat it up?
Regards Charlie

Post by **4sum4** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 6:00 pm

Once had the problem with the diff drain plug I just welded a peice of plate to the head and give it a hit while it was still hot.

Post by **Squik** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 6:19 pm

Thanks guys.......will give it another go in the morning. I've just about rounded out the bloody plug (it's a hex fit). So this is a common problem with Suzukis?
Oh....yep, turning it the right way......like that "Righty tighty....." saying, easy to remember

Post by **J Top** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 8:20 pm

IMO you don't warm the plug , you warm the alli case.
Drain the oil and leave the drain plug out to allow pressure to escape ,
then warm the case with a gas torch ,warm a large area not just round the plug and don't get it any warmer then you can bear to touch with your hand.
J Top

Post by **up2nogood** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:40 pm

For a more permanent solution to rounded nuts, weld an old half inch drive socket to it, then you can remove it with a breaker bar.

If there's room that is...........

Post by **Bitsamissin** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:57 pm

One thing you can do to prevent this happening is to use one of those cork washers (like on a tap) so the two metal faces don't touch. If the plug is steel and the case ally the dissimilar metals will bind together if tightened too much.

Post by **Shadow** » Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:58 pm

or better yet put a brass seal under it and youl never have that problem again

you could try tightening it further to break the bond on the thread, although if its that tight it probably wont work :S

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