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Series III Buggy!

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 8:25 pm
Location: Woodford.Qld

Series III Buggy!

Post by LandyLad »

I have recently spent many hours studying buggy leaf tech articles on the net. Most of what I found was on American vehicles like Jeeps! Many companies supply bolt on kits to fit these vehicles. What I want to know is would a buggy leaf setup work under my series III shorty, it seems to be a cheap alternative to get large amounts of articulation! :twisted:
If it aint broke, dont fix it !!
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

This has been covered a lot before - it is usually called 3/4 elliptic (which is what I assume you are talking about) search under that term on the gen 4x4 site.
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Post by modman »

lots of the zuk guys on this forum have converted to buggy/ 3/4 elliptic leafs. seems to work well for them.
series lr fronts suffer from lack of articulation in stock form.
that might be a good place to start.
have a look at bens tech(isuzurover) on leaf spring modification.
he will probably post the thread for you
david
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Post by DaveS3 »

modman wrote:series lr fronts suffer from lack of articulation in stock form.
that might be a good place to start.
david


Yeh the zooks work wll with the 3/4.

If you used 3/4 on the front, woudnt you have problems ith the pinion trying to rotate the wrong direction?

You would need to modify the driveshaft as well with bigger unis and the crossmember.

If you linked it you would be right, but then you almost at coils anyway!

Dave :D
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Post by DeWsE »

Works really well on the rear of zuks. In a spua it has no side affects on road but it is possible to design it so that it is pinned back on road with the use of a U bolt. You will need a rear main spring that is the same length as the spring being run already. Cut it just past the middle. Now I’m not to sure on how the shackles runs on these rigs but if it is in line with the chassis jut use to U bolts to clamp it on. If the the shackle runs outside the chassis then you will need some where to mount it. On a w/t zuk they sometimes weld some angle on and bolt it on. One of the probs for the zuk is that the have a fuel line running between the chassis and the spring with gets in the way. Also you will need shocks long enough to cope with the extra drop.

Hope that helps
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Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 8:25 pm
Location: Woodford.Qld

Thanks !!

Post by LandyLad »

Its good to see I can still ask stupid questions without being laughed at ! Thanks!!! I had the little blue beast up on the hoist at the workshop getting it all lubed up for an extreme track we have found(all creek bed!sand,rock,logs,water,dropoffs rock and logs,step ups,lots of cross axled action! you know all the good stuff!) Any way Ive calmed down now, I noticed that with the springs fully unloaded that my front drive shaft is almost popping the spline with lots of play at the join! is this normal?? The rear drive shaft even at full droop with military shackles has hardly any spline showing at all! Could the front be the wrong length? Were there different length front drive shafts for the seriesIII? :roll: I know....more stupid questions! :roll:
If it aint broke, dont fix it !!
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

On an 88" the front propshaft is about 3" longer than the rear. It may be possible to fit 2 rears (don't know - never tried).

I have never had any problems with my front propshaft and I have 15" of front travel, which is a fair bit more than stock.
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