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well its taken ages and I have made heaps of mistakes along the way but i've finally got my truck to a stage where I can drive it. Travels better then it use to at 110clicks at present, although there is a slight steering shimmy at 60. I removed the 2" body blocks as it looked bullsh*t high, doesn't look to huge now, blends in better. Still not finished, yet to do: rear shock mounts, exhuast, front shock hoops, steering dampener, align steering, mud flaps, front drive shaft install. Here's some pics;
thats as far as I could get without front drive shaft in
84 MK Patrol SD33T, 35" pro comps, SOA, 3" straight through, York onboard air, roll bar
yer if I get pulled over this project is over. I'll have to fully convert it back to standard or sell it unregistered. I don't think it looks too much bigger then it use to and I got by for the last year without any incidents involving police. See how I go. I can't do much with the exhaust until i set my rear shock positions, still not to sure how I can make it so the exhaust is not the lowest point... need stacks!
84 MK Patrol SD33T, 35" pro comps, SOA, 3" straight through, York onboard air, roll bar
looks rad mate. heaps more flex than those ormeau days. you won't sell it unregistered. you and i both know it will be the perfect excuse for a comp truck. as for the stacks we can get a 2 for one special. how it works on a swb i don't know
ADHD Racing would like to thank Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
well its taken ages and I have made heaps of mistakes along the way but i've finally got my truck to a stage where I can drive it. Travels better then it use to at 110clicks at present, although there is a slight steering shimmy at 60. I removed the 2" body blocks as it looked bullsh*t high, doesn't look to huge now, blends in better. Still not finished, yet to do: rear shock mounts, exhuast, front shock hoops, steering dampener, align steering, mud flaps, front drive shaft install.
maybe get all of these things sorted before you head out again and test it at 110
steering damper is comming, its a little fingered so I'm thinking of replacing. I now have good and bad news.
Good news is that I put the front drive shaft in and flexed it out in 4wd, she flexes heaps more then those last pics I posted, its bull sh*t. Having the front wheels pulling you up the hump allows the rear to keep dropping. The bad news is my front rancho shocks both bottom out and top out, these where ment to be the longest you can buy. I've also dinted the passenger side shock pretty bad, it appears to have been pressed by the u-bolt top plate. Anyone else had this problem?? can you more those shock mounts closer to the tires ie. further from the leafs? I haven't had a good investigation or brainstorm about my options yet. Was to pissed off when I discovered the shock dent. Not sure if the compression will be affected by the ding, I think it will be though.
cheers
84 MK Patrol SD33T, 35" pro comps, SOA, 3" straight through, York onboard air, roll bar
If you dont mind a quick tip - If you want it to drive better reverse taper your pitman arm which will level out your draglink and will eliminate a lot of the bump steer. You will definately notice the difference.
thanks for the tip offroad industries, i had thought of that however had so much trouble getting a tappered hole drilled in my hi-steer arm I didn't want to have to repeat things. I'll see how I go and get if done if i need.
insurance is out the door, i know.
on another note, how good are rancho shocks. Pulled my dinted one off this arvo, still works fine and is smooth as...can't believe it, its got a pretty big ding in it, have to be 20mm deep at least.
trying to work out how to mount these front shocks so they don't hit this leaf spring top plate at full flex...any suggestions anyone?? I might trry enlarging the bottom mounting plate so I can move the shocks a little closer to the tyres.
84 MK Patrol SD33T, 35" pro comps, SOA, 3" straight through, York onboard air, roll bar
Mate, my front ranchos also hit on the top spring plate and dented them in.
I am however in the prosses of modifying my front mounts to eyes and move them further over just a touch
Are u running shock hoops in the front or the standard front top mounts?
pics would be good. Also are all ur shock mounts standard?
cheers
screwy
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Finally done ya mad mofo. i'd better get my arse into gear and get mine finished so we can go give it a good test run. The beers are cold if you get bored today and theres plenty of sanding to be done.
here's the truck not flexed and what i did to the shock mount this morning, now it doesn't hit at full flex. No shock hoops as yet, may have to do something, although the leaf doesn't seem to be hitting the bump stop at full flex as yet, so shocks aren't bottoming out as I thought. Going for a play in the bush tomorrow, i'll try get some more pics. I also fixed my shackle invert problem by welding so tabs on the rear shackle mounts, no pics sorry.
84 MK Patrol SD33T, 35" pro comps, SOA, 3" straight through, York onboard air, roll bar
bru21 wrote:looks rad mate. heaps more flex than those ormeau days. you won't sell it unregistered. you and i both know it will be the perfect excuse for a comp truck. as for the stacks we can get a 2 for one special. how it works on a swb i don't know
a two for one special on stacks i could be interested in stacks as well not sure how it will work either as i want it up the back of the cab i spose though i've seen guys in utes getting around with them how much are they
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[url=http://www.fourbys.com.au/]Fourby's tyre and mechanical[/url]
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terrytuffnut wrote:Just reading through and was wondering what a stack is?
Exaust Stacks, like the ones coming out the top of the back of big truck cabs.
I run twin 2.5 inch zorst, Rosey wants the same, but only 1 and straight up with a tip on like a truck. thats a stack.
screwy
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with the shock situation why dont you try to weld a bolt to the u bolt plate and get different shocks ones with an eye at the bottom and pin at the top
with the shock situation why dont you try to weld a bolt to the u bolt plate and get different shocks ones with an eye at the bottom and pin at the top
