what size/length shockie for a 4" lift on a GQ

[Hoonz]

what size shocks to use for a 4" lift ... with be going 5link front end as well????

[Cheezy4x4]

5 Link why

[Hoonz]

how else can u make the front flex more?

[Cheezy4x4]

What do you use you rig for and how much flex do you need
Also how much on road use does it get.
The standard front can be made to flex a fair bit, but if thats not enough, a well designed 5 or 4 link or an A frame is the go but not to good for the road or a daily driver.

[duncan]

Im running a 5 link front that I made myself as a daily driver with rancho 9000s shocks set on 3 no sway bars its great so long as you dont drive it like a porshe yes it has more body roll but just drive accordingly it will be fine my lift is 4 inches with 3 1/4 inch body lift on 35 bfg muds if you havent bought shocks or springs yet go the six inch lift with no body blocks nicer ride with the 5 link installed the front and rear coils can be completely compressed leaving the vehicle sitting flat great system its on a GQ long wheel base fronts 9159 rears are 9143 my coils are 21 mm diameter wire dont no what rate but were sold as a set by wikinsons here in wa the coils are kings if your machanicaly minded make your own 5 link heaps cheaper than $2500 that I was quoted

[Hoonz]

kinda mechanically minded but I would have to look at a 5link and take measurements to get it right
thinking in my case it would be easier to buy one
and I don't drive it like a race car well .. maybe in the mud

[OVERKLL GU]

I Put a 5 link developed by Sam from Overkill Engineering in my GU after I put 6 inch high coils in it.
It runs Rod ends on all 4 arms so there is no bush binding. Basically if you took the spring and the shocks out had the car sitting on stands you can lift one end of the axel up and the other would stay put on the ground movement is only restricted by the steering arm and length of shocks. Main reason was the standard front of the Patrols control arms rear bushes will bind up with a large lift and you will have to fit 7 Degree Caster plates to make it drive nice again. You can get drop down mounts for the rear to connect control arms 3 inches lower but who want a 3 inch hunk hanging down to get stuck on rocks with. On road no anti sway bars attached I did not get much body sway as the front was so stiff. Off road it was worse the front would not flex more than about 3 inches unless going down a hill with the car loaded up on the front end... I Went for the 5 link and it now works as it should have. Put heavy rated springs all round so I get less body flop. I drive it everyday sure it changed everything but what do you expect when you want loads of wheel flex. Manufactures don’t make them to work that well because most people go touring around a loads more never see the dirt. Go 5 link you will love it if you go off road all the time. Be warned about other designs on the market. You can get nasty caster slap and have to pull over to stop the wheel shake. I Run 37’s and have never got a hint of it. Have fun!!! :wink:

[OVERKLL GU]

No 5 link photo, the car is leaning in to the hole rear is on full flex.

[OVERKLL GU]

No much going on in the front downward slope front is stiff as

[OVERKLL GU]

Same Spot 5 Linked now Front flexing nicely rear has loads more to go as does the front. Car is no longer following the front end and nose diving in the hole.

[Wendle]

buy 9012's for all corners and change whatever you need to to make them fit. These are big trucks, there is plenty of room to make them work.
Taller upper mounts in the front with an eye fitting, and change the lower mount to an eye. Cut the lower mounts off the back and mount them up flush with the housing, then lift the upper mounts up to suit. You'll have heaps of space here, being a trayback.
You will want to do all this eventually, so do it the first time and save yourself some $

[OVERKLL GU]

Same spot 5 linked other side. As you can see the car is sitting nice and flat front is flexing well still about 3 inches of up travel in the front and about 3 down also in the front. Not sure about the back but you can see that is is not flexing as hard as in the other shots with out the 5 link.
IT IS ALL GOOD

[OVERKLL GU]

Full Flex. Not much to say it just works.

[OVERKLL GU]

And the other side. Humm Nice. Oh and you could run 9012 on the front but the rod ends on the steering arm will bind up and flog out unless you make a "Z" arm

[Wendle]

And the other side. Humm Nice. Oh and you could run 9012 on the front but the rod ends on the steering arm will bind up and flog out unless you make a "Z" arm

Yep. You are spot on. Not so much of a "z", just needs the ends tweaked out flat.

Sorry for cutting in in the middle of all your linked posts

[OVERKLL GU]

And the other side. Humm Nice. Oh and you could run 9012 on the front but the rod ends on the steering arm will bind up and flog out unless you make a "Z" arm

Yep. You are spot on. Not so much of a "z", just needs the ends tweaked out flat.

Sorry for cutting in in the middle of all your linked posts

No Probs mate its all good. Hope some of that was helpful to people looking at this. You can do so much to make a 4WD work better it is a trial and error thing. I have changed loads of things some work ok other not as you would like. In the end it comes down to $$$ when do you stop

[Cheezy4x4]

Steering probs, Hi steer with heims will fix the flex probs. My new setup flexes double what it did B4 with no probs, just a bit of diff steer cos the links are a bit short.

[Hoonz]

yeah trial and error ... I'll let other people do that .. see what works well
then get my ute done .. 1st time right then .. none of my non exsistant dollars gone to waste

thanks for all the help guys keep all the info coming

[Juzza]

Steering probs, Hi steer with heims will fix the flex probs. My new setup flexes double what it did B4 with no probs, just a bit of diff steer cos the links are a bit short.

Mark, what are you and Hayden going to have available in the way of steering and suspension stuff?
ie; hi-steer, control arms, steering links, 5-links, panhards, etc...also, missile-proof CV's, barwork etc.
I assume you guys are going to concentrate on Nissan stuff (there is already enough blokes doing Toy... sh1t) so how long till we see some of this sort of gear available???

[Cheezy4x4]

First thing I am finishing the Mav thing, than will be filling orders that are banking up starting after XRCC round 1, so to answer your question after XRCC round 1.
The best sellers are CV's, front bars and sliders. Man have I got alot of sliders to make.

[duncan]

Definatly make a new steering arm s shaped had the vehicle with the 5 link working great bent the hell out of the steering arm because with lifting your car your already using some of the movment available from the ball joints so when the front flexes there is nothing left also relocate your steering damper brakets to lift it up out of the way of damage as it hangs out there just waiting to be smacked.


Just a quick question if you fit a a frame rear or a four link rear can you get rid of the rear panhard rod i thougt you could only do this on a 4 link set up as the upper rear links control side ways movment but after seeing some picks in a 4 wheel drive monthly mag of a GQ wagon that was orange and purple a couple of months ago he had what he called a butterfly rear upper link just looked like a different sort of a fram but he had removed the rear panhard rod is this possible

[MKPatrolGuy]

Just a quick question if you fit a a frame rear or a four link rear can you get rid of the rear panhard rod i thougt you could only do this on a 4 link set up as the upper rear links control side ways movment but after seeing some picks in a 4 wheel drive monthly mag of a GQ wagon that was orange and purple a couple of months ago he had what he called a butterfly rear upper link just looked like a different sort of a fram but he had removed the rear panhard rod is this possible

Yes in either a triangulated 4 link or 3 link you don't run a panhard rod, the triangulation of the links does control the lateral movement in both setups.

[Cheezy4x4]

What Dave said.

[Wendle]

You couldn't run a panhard with triangulated links even if you wanted to. The bind would tear the housing apart.

[OVERKLL GU]

What happens if you go hi steer arm, I have been thinking about getting Sam to make one for me, do I have to move the pan hard rod again to run parallel. I have had the ball joint on the pitment arm relocated to the underside as it is on the top on GU's to reduce the angle and moved the pan hard rod down the same amount. If you go hi steer does the pan hard rod have to be moved again like 3 inches? Only problem is on up travel the Diff Pumpkin will hit the pan hard rod had to move the diff forward ½ an inch to clear the 37’s. Or can you bend the pan hard rod or something. Has anyone done this

[Wendle]

If you raise the axle end of the panhard instead of dropping the chassis end, the housing should still clear. (I think?)
This would be a better option as there is already a lot of leverage on the chassis mount.
Thinking out loud: You would need a flat arm to bolt down in place of the trunion bearing cap, taper bored for the drag link end, and something nice and beefy to tie it back down to the cast arm on the knuckle ot get rid of the twisting moment. Then a trussed bracket welded to the housing to raise the panhard a bit.. The coil may be in the way of this??

[OVERKLL GU]

Yea I know what your saying I have sat looking at it for ages. I am sure it can be done could move the mount point away from the spring I guess. Some more work for Sam.. I Think that would help the bump steer I get through the wheel was going to add another damper have a Tuff Dog one on there it helped a lot but the 37’d have lots of leverage.

[bogged]

anyone else get a technochubby reading this?

[BowTieGQ]

Poked myself in the eye with it!

[weeman]

anyone else get a technochubby reading this?

why did u drag this shit up bruce?