Hi guys,
I am completly new to the FJ 40 experiance as I have just got hold of a nice shorty. it has a 302 on gas, 8 months rego and a whole bunch of spares such as 60 series diffs transfer cases gearboxes and a spring over conversion kit and heaps more, I picked the whole lot up for $1800.00 I was wondering if any one could help me out with some info on swapping the front drums to front discs, it is engineered but I would have assumed that a break upgrade would have been the order of the day for a v8 conversion. any thoughts ? also do I neeed an engineer certificate for a spring over conversion ?
cheers
Shaun
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
FJ 40 Info
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
FJ 40 Info
Keep On Rockin' in the Free World !!
sounds like you scored a good buy ive had my 40 for 7 months registered for 1 and am loving every day driving it 
as for the front brakes your best bet would be to buy a complete disk break front end imo and bolt it straight up cause as far as i know you neally have to replace the entire swivel hub to get the disk brakes on the front
cheers
pcman
as for the front brakes your best bet would be to buy a complete disk break front end imo and bolt it straight up cause as far as i know you neally have to replace the entire swivel hub to get the disk brakes on the front
cheers
pcman
pcman wrote:sounds like you scored a good buy ive had my 40 for 7 months registered for 1 and am loving every day driving it
as for the front brakes your best bet would be to buy a complete disk break front end imo and bolt it straight up cause as far as i know you neally have to replace the entire swivel hub to get the disk brakes on the front
cheers
pcman
The disks are an easy bolt on upgrade and i dont even think you need to swap the sweivel hub...but ill check for u this thurs. Is it SOA at the moment?
----HillBilly Engineering----
here in victoria, if you stick a v8 in, you dont automatically have to get the brakes upgraded to disc..
the engineer (VASS signatory here) does a "brake test" and if the is happy with that, then they engineer your vehicle.
whilst discs are certainly MUCH better than drum, if properly maintained, drums are not too bad.. but certainly upgrading to disk is the way to go..
heres some info on maintaining your drums all round...
http://rzeppa.org/tech/brakes.htm
welcome to the 40 clan!!
daniel
the engineer (VASS signatory here) does a "brake test" and if the is happy with that, then they engineer your vehicle.
whilst discs are certainly MUCH better than drum, if properly maintained, drums are not too bad.. but certainly upgrading to disk is the way to go..
heres some info on maintaining your drums all round...
http://rzeppa.org/tech/brakes.htm
welcome to the 40 clan!!
daniel
now in Perth
Hey, welcome aboard!!
I've had my FJ40 for 5 years now, and loved every minute!!
As for the front discs, don't the 60 series diffs you've got have a front disc setup? Can't you just bolt them up instead?
Also just curious, what's in the "spring over conversion kit "?
Anyway,
enjoy the roarin' 40's
Rick
I've had my FJ40 for 5 years now, and loved every minute!!
As for the front discs, don't the 60 series diffs you've got have a front disc setup? Can't you just bolt them up instead?
Also just curious, what's in the "spring over conversion kit "?
Anyway,
enjoy the roarin' 40's
Rick
Im here for the sausage!
t
Welcome mate.
but hang on, we cant have too many 40s around newy, especially as i dont have a V8.
mate if you have 60 series diffs, put them on, as they come with disc brakes.
thats my tip. i went to the trouble of putting disc brakes on my 40, now i wish i had just put 60 series diffs under, they give you a wider track and come with the disc brakes.
also if your 40 has old 40 bits on it, you might have coarse spline axles, where as newer 40 bits, and 60 series are a common fine spline.
thats my tip.
put up some photos when you can mate.
what colour is it? where did you get it from?
sounds like a top buy to me.
is the conversion pretty good mate?? and where is your gas tank mounted??
but hang on, we cant have too many 40s around newy, especially as i dont have a V8.
mate if you have 60 series diffs, put them on, as they come with disc brakes.
thats my tip. i went to the trouble of putting disc brakes on my 40, now i wish i had just put 60 series diffs under, they give you a wider track and come with the disc brakes.
also if your 40 has old 40 bits on it, you might have coarse spline axles, where as newer 40 bits, and 60 series are a common fine spline.
thats my tip.
put up some photos when you can mate.
what colour is it? where did you get it from?
sounds like a top buy to me.
is the conversion pretty good mate?? and where is your gas tank mounted??
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
cheers dirty,
I got it from Killarnyvale, the gas tank is mounted at the back underneath where a convetional car tank is, it is a light brown sort of colour.
The dude I got it from through in heaps of stuff including the diffs do I just bolt em' up no mucking around at all ? or is there something I should be doing first ? Once I have picked all my stuff up I will post all the parts left over and if anyone needs anything just yell.
R worland, sorry mate I mean there are also diffs set up already to take springs (I am very much a layman still)
I got it from Killarnyvale, the gas tank is mounted at the back underneath where a convetional car tank is, it is a light brown sort of colour.
The dude I got it from through in heaps of stuff including the diffs do I just bolt em' up no mucking around at all ? or is there something I should be doing first ? Once I have picked all my stuff up I will post all the parts left over and if anyone needs anything just yell.
R worland, sorry mate I mean there are also diffs set up already to take springs (I am very much a layman still)
Keep On Rockin' in the Free World !!
Im here for the sausage!
t
mate, you will have to play with the spring mounts.
cos the 60s are wider, they dont line up with the 40 chassis.
ask shorty40. He has 60 series gear on his, i drove it on the weekend and was very impressed!
and yeah put me in the line for looking over any spares, although i have a fair pile myself now.
how does the steering go on it? feel ok, and it is power or not?
what size tyres is it running?? sounds like a damn fun toy to me.
cos the 60s are wider, they dont line up with the 40 chassis.
ask shorty40. He has 60 series gear on his, i drove it on the weekend and was very impressed!
and yeah put me in the line for looking over any spares, although i have a fair pile myself now.
how does the steering go on it? feel ok, and it is power or not?
what size tyres is it running?? sounds like a damn fun toy to me.
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
www.lovells.com.au
RAW4x4
Re: FJ 40 Info
hi guys i need to know what size thermo fan/s i need to run on a standard radiator??? i think its a single 18' but will a standard commodore/falcon one do the job effectivley??? i know im going to need to make mounts but i want to get the right size first so i dont get cooling problems
thanks guys
thanks guys
GO HARD OR GO HOME
Re: FJ 40 Info
To use the 60 discs is pretty straigh forwar - you will need to swap over everything from the swivel hub out including the swivel hub (required to mount the caliper) from the 60 onto the 40 axle housing. It's a good opportunity to put a swivel hub kit and wheel bearings/seals etc through the car at the same time. I've got a step by step guide with pics I got from the web somewhere for how to do the swivel hub out swap/rebuild. PM me your email addy if you want a copy.
The benefits of using the 40 housing with 60 swivel hub out are that there is no modification of spring hangers required, and the track track width stays the same which for legalities will be a plus
To make the disc brakes work properly you will need a master cylinder with brake booster and proportioning valve for a disc brake setup as the 40 will either not have a booster at all, or have a booster which doesn't proportion braking correctly for disc front and drum rear. 60 series booster MAY work, but it doesn't have the proportioning valve (I think the prop valve is seperate) with the booster and master cylinder so you would need to source a proportioning valve and get it set up for the correct balance for the much lighter 40 series. The 40 series disc brake master cylinder/booster setup also has the proportioning valve and would be the easiest option.
While you are looking into the project - not all firewalls are the same either - the supporting rib that runs up the firewall from the floor to the top of the firewall runs straight for a non-boosted master cylinder and curves at the top for one that has a booster. If you have a straight rib then you will need to source a curved rib and replace the straight one OR find a remote booster setup.
As someone earlier said, you can make drums work quite well on a 40, they just need more maintenance and adjustment to keep them in top order. That said, I loved the disc brakes on my old 40 and am putting discs on my current project
Good luck
The benefits of using the 40 housing with 60 swivel hub out are that there is no modification of spring hangers required, and the track track width stays the same which for legalities will be a plus
To make the disc brakes work properly you will need a master cylinder with brake booster and proportioning valve for a disc brake setup as the 40 will either not have a booster at all, or have a booster which doesn't proportion braking correctly for disc front and drum rear. 60 series booster MAY work, but it doesn't have the proportioning valve (I think the prop valve is seperate) with the booster and master cylinder so you would need to source a proportioning valve and get it set up for the correct balance for the much lighter 40 series. The 40 series disc brake master cylinder/booster setup also has the proportioning valve and would be the easiest option.
While you are looking into the project - not all firewalls are the same either - the supporting rib that runs up the firewall from the floor to the top of the firewall runs straight for a non-boosted master cylinder and curves at the top for one that has a booster. If you have a straight rib then you will need to source a curved rib and replace the straight one OR find a remote booster setup.
As someone earlier said, you can make drums work quite well on a 40, they just need more maintenance and adjustment to keep them in top order. That said, I loved the disc brakes on my old 40 and am putting discs on my current project
Good luck
Re: FJ 40 Info
X 2 on the 60's axles - remove the disks and fit them to the 40 axle as the 60 axle is wider than the 40 axle and requires a fair few mods to make the 60 axle fit - its easier to just swop out the disks
4Play
Jo'burg South Africa
1999 RSA Spec FZJ105
1979 FJ40 - Kermit
1983 FJ40 LX
Jo'burg South Africa
1999 RSA Spec FZJ105
1979 FJ40 - Kermit
1983 FJ40 LX
Im here for the sausage!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests