trying to get a car going for a couple of months (needed for work etc) for next to nothing.
what is a clutch "cover plate" and does it need replacing if fixing the clutch (it's slipping like a B!tch)
do the bearings need to be replaced at every clutch replacement, or can i reuse old ones.
i know that this isn't the best way to do it, and in a year or so, i expect to have to pull it again and do the job properly, but if i can get it drivable now, i may be able to earn enough to not have to go bankrupt, and will have the money by then to fix it properly
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clutch replacement
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clutch replacement
Spit my last breath
a clutch KIT consists of, clutch plate, pressure plate, and a bearing.
Yes bearings should be changed with a clutch replacement while gearbox is out or you'll have nasty noises from a worn bearing. Dont save 'a few bucks (20 bux) by re-using your bearing where it can result in failure of the clutch system.
Cover plate - you mean a pressure plate which has a flex on it to release pressure etc. Yes you should replace it when you replace a clutch.
You also should get the flywheel taken off and machined as well so you have an even surface on both the flywheel and the pressure plate to hold the clutch plate correctly.
FYI.. I paid 480 dollars for a clutch kit from direct clutch for my patrol diesel (safari plate etc) which consisted of machining my current flywheel and supplying a clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing.
Good luck
TOM
Yes bearings should be changed with a clutch replacement while gearbox is out or you'll have nasty noises from a worn bearing. Dont save 'a few bucks (20 bux) by re-using your bearing where it can result in failure of the clutch system.
Cover plate - you mean a pressure plate which has a flex on it to release pressure etc. Yes you should replace it when you replace a clutch.
You also should get the flywheel taken off and machined as well so you have an even surface on both the flywheel and the pressure plate to hold the clutch plate correctly.
FYI.. I paid 480 dollars for a clutch kit from direct clutch for my patrol diesel (safari plate etc) which consisted of machining my current flywheel and supplying a clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing.
Good luck
TOM
Last edited by Daisy on Tue Oct 26, 2004 4:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Clutch Cover is another term for a pressure plate.
It is advisable to replace the lot when you do the clutch but with a low horse power engine,ie any Ford, you can sometimes get away with just a second hand clutch plate from a wrecker,they sell them all the time.
If the cars not worth doing it right then al you are risking is your time.
J Top
It is advisable to replace the lot when you do the clutch but with a low horse power engine,ie any Ford, you can sometimes get away with just a second hand clutch plate from a wrecker,they sell them all the time.
If the cars not worth doing it right then al you are risking is your time.
J Top
better mood now...
option 1, replace rear main seal (i know it's leaking from here) and hope that's why the clutch is slipping like a B!tch
option 2, replace clutch plate only and rear main and hope it doesn't slip anymore.
option 3, drive it slipping, hopefully make 500 bucks that i can save, and then do the job properly
option 1, replace rear main seal (i know it's leaking from here) and hope that's why the clutch is slipping like a B!tch
option 2, replace clutch plate only and rear main and hope it doesn't slip anymore.
option 3, drive it slipping, hopefully make 500 bucks that i can save, and then do the job properly
Spit my last breath
Getting by...
Whilst personally not a fan of bodgy get by's.......
You could pull the box out and inspect the friction plate, wash it in petrol to get the oil off and inspect it for excessive wear. Clean down all the inside of the bellhousing and pressure plate. Speedy sleeve you crankshaft if necessary and replace the seal. If your clutch pedal still feels stiff and effective it will probably get you by. Inspect the thrust bearing and replace it if necessary, they are only $20 or so. Will take you half a day and maybe $50 for the speedy sleeve, use one if the crank is worn because it will leak again soon if not straight away undoing all your work. Then save up the money to fix it properly next time it shits itself.
You could pull the box out and inspect the friction plate, wash it in petrol to get the oil off and inspect it for excessive wear. Clean down all the inside of the bellhousing and pressure plate. Speedy sleeve you crankshaft if necessary and replace the seal. If your clutch pedal still feels stiff and effective it will probably get you by. Inspect the thrust bearing and replace it if necessary, they are only $20 or so. Will take you half a day and maybe $50 for the speedy sleeve, use one if the crank is worn because it will leak again soon if not straight away undoing all your work. Then save up the money to fix it properly next time it shits itself.
if the clutch is slipping very badly, the pressure plate (cover plate) diaphragm spring is probably broken. if it's slipping a little bit (eg only when going up hills in a high gear), then the clutch is worn out. oil on the clutch plates will cause it to shudder and grab on engagement but will not normally make it slip once the pedal is all the way out. oil on the clutch is almost never caused by a leaking rear main seal, a leak here is on the wrong side of the flywheel to get much oil on the clutch - it is a common misconception. Leeaky rear main seal oil will spray coat the inside of the front of the bellhousing but not much gets back to the clutch - most of it runs down the inside of the bellhousing and out the bottom. oil on the clutch is far more likely to be caused by a leaking transmission input shaft seal.
what kind of car is it? clutch kits can be had for $100 - $150 and if it is a rear wheel drive changing the whole clutch should take about 2 hours, less if you have help. if it has been slipping a lot then it is a good idea to have the flywheel machined, and if the rear main seal is leaking then it's a good idea to change it, but if it's an old holden or whatever with a 2 piece wick type seal then there's no need to drop the gearbox to change the seal... but you do need to drop the sump which is a PITA.
get the whole car up as high as you safely can on ramps or stands, but not so high you can't get a jack under the transmission. read the book and have the tools ready before you start and it will go easy - it sounds like a big job but on most cars (RWD/4WD at least) changing a clutch really is a pretty easy job.
good luck!
Brian
what kind of car is it? clutch kits can be had for $100 - $150 and if it is a rear wheel drive changing the whole clutch should take about 2 hours, less if you have help. if it has been slipping a lot then it is a good idea to have the flywheel machined, and if the rear main seal is leaking then it's a good idea to change it, but if it's an old holden or whatever with a 2 piece wick type seal then there's no need to drop the gearbox to change the seal... but you do need to drop the sump which is a PITA.
get the whole car up as high as you safely can on ramps or stands, but not so high you can't get a jack under the transmission. read the book and have the tools ready before you start and it will go easy - it sounds like a big job but on most cars (RWD/4WD at least) changing a clutch really is a pretty easy job.
good luck!
Brian
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
car is a hj45, 500 bux for the kit, 50-100 bucks in assorted seals. it is slipping in higher gears up hills (occasionally)... the occassionally is what gets me.
and it seems to slip heaps worse when we top up the oil. i know the rear main is gone anyway, so have to do that while i'm in there.
and it seems to slip heaps worse when we top up the oil. i know the rear main is gone anyway, so have to do that while i'm in there.
Spit my last breath
I just recently changed the clutch in my FJ45 with has a 2H transplant, its was no easy job, particularly since all the bolt holes in the aluminium bellhousing were all stripped & elongated. I got a Daikin clutch (nothing flash) for $250. It'd be a good idea to make some kind off cradle to fit on a trolley jack before you start cause the bottom of the gear box is uneven & does not balance well, it took three of us to slide the box back in cause there is a fair bit of manouvering required to get it past a round section cross member at the rear, also I would not attempt the job without something to align the clutch with the spigot bearing.
bad_religion_au wrote:car is a hj45, 500 bux for the kit, 50-100 bucks in assorted seals. it is slipping in higher gears up hills (occasionally)... the occassionally is what gets me.
$500 for a clutch? tell them to stick it, you can get a stocker clutch kit for under $250 for a cruiser, possibly less if you wheedle for trade price. slipping in high gears up hills occasionally is consistent with the clutch just being worn out, the 'occasionally' is spooky but it happens, has more to do with temperature and load than anything else. Should be able to get a top shelf Daikin Xtreme or Safari Tuff for your $500.
in a 4x series, as an alternative to a jack you can use a chain block and a bit of 4"x2" timber across the doors (wrap the ends of the timber in rags to protect the doors, or use external a-frames), instead of a jack, to raise/lwer the transmission. give you more room to work underneath. you can also use an engine hoist if you take the passenger side seat out. either way you need to lift off the transmission cover in the floor, only 6 bolts. easy.
be very careful when you're dropping the flywheel out, those suckers are heavy! and if you're taking the flywheel out, get it machined up - if the clutch has been slipping, there will be high/low spots on the clutch surface, and possibly some surface cracking.
cheers
Brian
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
When I replaced the clutch in my fj45 with the 2H in it I had no idea if the stuff behind the engine belonged to the original petrol or the replacement deisel engine, from memory the clutches for both are interchangeable so I cannot see why one would be double the price of the other I am pretty sure the fixing points on the fly wheel are identical for both types of engines. I bought the clutch from Autopro for $250 as I mentioned earlier, I've no idea whether its for the petrol or deisel engine model.
bad_religion_au wrote:that is cut and paste from the response i got from the dealer selling the kit...
cover plate may be pressure plate
yeah cover plate == pressure plate. I am shocked by the difference in price, I know I have bought clutches for both diesel and petrol cruisers and have paid similar for both in the past.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
When I bought the clutch for my FJ I remember there was a bit of ongoing debate with the bloke at Autopro as to which clutch would have the heavier pressure plate, the diesel or the petrol? I think we agreed it would be the petrol (I don't really recall why, or if the Daikin I finally bought was for a 2H or a petrol engine). The old one was definately a crappy looking thing & it had hard rubber cylinders as cushion springs instead of steel springs & was PBR brand.
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