
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
GQ factory locker
GQ factory locker
Just after everyones opinions, experiences or info regarding these genuine Nissan lockers fitted to the H233s during GQ model run and i think some GUs had them. Anything...anyone 

Custom Barwork
Cages built to CCDA specs
Turbo and intercooler systems for diesel and petrol.......PM me.
Centavic Performance 4WD
Cages built to CCDA specs
Turbo and intercooler systems for diesel and petrol.......PM me.
Centavic Performance 4WD
Re: GQ factory locker
Juzza wrote:Just after everyones opinions, experiences or info regarding these genuine Nissan lockers fitted to the H233s during GQ model run and i think some GUs had them. Anything...anyone
Woop has one.. I think for 400,000 odd kms of his 560,000... and was happy with it...
I think he may have gone ARB somewhere along the track.
i have one in mine, had no problems with it so far, only thing about them is they can take a bit to get them to lock in, like weaving around a bit, going backwards and forwards, as they only lock in ever 1/4 of a turn, as opposed to arb, which can lock in almost anywhere. Also the actuator on the outside of the diff is very exposed, easy to damage, but i guess it would be easy enough to weld a small cage around it. The solenoid pack in the engine bay is known to screw up, and is expensive to replace, but i think you can get one off a bluebird or some other nissan model (do a search, its been discussed b4) from the wreckers that can be picked up for like $10, and will do the exact same job.
Rum injected
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
I have seen a couple with badly worn dog teeth on the locking mechanism,if you are buying a second hand one you need to really look as the wear can be hard to see.This happens when you engage it with one wheel spinning.One of them had cracked the gear and the dog and parts were $1000 ex Japan.
With the sticking solenoids you can sometimes run CRC through them to free them up again.
J Top
With the sticking solenoids you can sometimes run CRC through them to free them up again.
J Top
Mine was stuffed... until I sorted out rotted wiring... now it works great but is slow to engage and disengage.
During that "intermediate" not locked stage but after you've flicked the switch you need to be careful with it - if you drive too fast then it tries to engage you may be in trouble.
Once locked it's solid as and works great. Speed seems irrelevant to it once locked it's capable of doing much more than the recommended speed with no dramas.
Basically... turn it on well before you think you'll need it and then off twice that distance before you actually hit the main road and it'll be sweet.
During that "intermediate" not locked stage but after you've flicked the switch you need to be careful with it - if you drive too fast then it tries to engage you may be in trouble.
Once locked it's solid as and works great. Speed seems irrelevant to it once locked it's capable of doing much more than the recommended speed with no dramas.
Basically... turn it on well before you think you'll need it and then off twice that distance before you actually hit the main road and it'll be sweet.
My GQ had a fact locker from new. The only thing that i've found that gives problems are the Solenoids burning out--more specifically, one solenoid in the 2 pack is energised whenever the ignition is on to keep the diff disengaged--when engaging, the other solenoid engages--if your solenoid burns out, you have to swap the vacuum hoses over to get the diff to disengage.
It will only engage at speeds under 8km/h and also needs at least a 1/4 turn of one wheel to engage. Ive hit the actuator pretty hard on mine and mangled it very badly, but it still works fine..
Nick
It will only engage at speeds under 8km/h and also needs at least a 1/4 turn of one wheel to engage. Ive hit the actuator pretty hard on mine and mangled it very badly, but it still works fine..
Nick
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests