Need to rust proof the 80,
Never been rust proofed before but in perfect condition.
After everyones thoughts
should i do it myself or get someone else to do it.
What is the best thing to use.
If i get it done who is good around brisbane and how much should i expect to pay.
Also what sort of things do you do before or after going on the beach.
Thanks
Steve
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Rust Proofing
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Every Auto club and choice mag say dont get it done.Any moisture or dirt that is covered is a future rust area.The best stuf to use is fisholine which you can do your self with a oil can.When doing the door skins ,clean the weep holes later.This stuff stinks but it is ok in about 2 weeks and will last forever.I did my Maverick and it was 15 years old when I sold it with no rust at all.I did many creek crossings ,Fraser Isl,crossed the Jardine etc etc.Regards P.K.
This is a copy of Dr Karls oppimion of electrlytic rust prevention.Iwould not use it Regards P.K.
Car Rust and How to Stop It
Listen to Karl talk about Car Rust and How to Stop It
(You will need Real Audio which you can download for free)
Mark had rust on his car, and wanted to know if he could put some kind of sacrificial metal onto his car to stop it from rusting. After all, this "sacrificial metal" trick works on boats and ships and bridges. Are the car companies simply not doing this, so their cars rust sooner, and we have to buy more new cars.
The process is called "cathodic protection". You attach another metal which will corrode first, before the iron in your car, bridge or boat. The sacrificial metal that's usually used is zinc. As the iron turns into rust, it gives up electrons. If there's a lump of zinc nearby, the iron get the electrons back from the zinc and so stays protected, while the zinc begins to corrode away.
For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit. But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into sea water!
There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. The FCC in the United States of America has actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work.
In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a lump of zinc right on the interface, it would protect it. But you'd have to have little lumps of zinc all over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chaisis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car won't rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal doesn't rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.
© Karl S. Kruszelnicki Pty Ltd 2003.
Car Rust and How to Stop It
Listen to Karl talk about Car Rust and How to Stop It
(You will need Real Audio which you can download for free)
Mark had rust on his car, and wanted to know if he could put some kind of sacrificial metal onto his car to stop it from rusting. After all, this "sacrificial metal" trick works on boats and ships and bridges. Are the car companies simply not doing this, so their cars rust sooner, and we have to buy more new cars.
The process is called "cathodic protection". You attach another metal which will corrode first, before the iron in your car, bridge or boat. The sacrificial metal that's usually used is zinc. As the iron turns into rust, it gives up electrons. If there's a lump of zinc nearby, the iron get the electrons back from the zinc and so stays protected, while the zinc begins to corrode away.
For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit. But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into sea water!
There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. The FCC in the United States of America has actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work.
In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a lump of zinc right on the interface, it would protect it. But you'd have to have little lumps of zinc all over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chaisis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car won't rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal doesn't rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.
© Karl S. Kruszelnicki Pty Ltd 2003.
Im here for the sausage!
t
old gurus swear by fishoil.
or even that boddy deadener black shite. but work of warning you use that body deadening stuff and be careful its like tar. its a bastard to work with at home.
and i fish oil my 4b every 12 months. but its a 40 and gets a lot of water and mud.
but i woudlnt personally leave it 15 yrs.
or even that boddy deadener black shite. but work of warning you use that body deadening stuff and be careful its like tar. its a bastard to work with at home.
and i fish oil my 4b every 12 months. but its a 40 and gets a lot of water and mud.
but i woudlnt personally leave it 15 yrs.
EVERYONE LOVES A 40
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RAW4x4
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RAW4x4
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Combination of fish oil, cavity wax and body deadener, depending on the area to be treated. fish oil for the seams/panel joints, cavity wax for the large flat panels that receive no contact with the outside elements, and body deadener/stone guard for underside panels, wheelwells and footwells.
Built, not bought.
Re: t
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:old gurus swear by fishoil.
or even that boddy deadener black shite. but work of warning you use that body deadening stuff and be careful its like tar. its a bastard to work with at home.
and i fish oil my 4b every 12 months. but its a 40 and gets a lot of water and mud.
but i woudlnt personally leave it 15 yrs.
Herculiner? watch out for your hootus...
I can see how the electronic stuff would work... obviously its not as successful as they claim however. There is a bloke on the surf forum in sth africa who swears on diesel diluted down with water; i presume ,sprayed on the underneath stops mud from sticking and prevents rust. Other than that... lanolin sounds the go!@!
Cheers,
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
I wouldn't use that body deadener on the inner guards etc. Once it cracks and moisture of anysort gets under it then rust will appear. I'm inclined to stay well away from any of those tar type coverings.
Fish oil is really good.
50/50 mixture of sump oil and kerosene or diesel and kerosene is another good option for spraying in and around the body. Especially undernieth.
Fish oil is really good.
50/50 mixture of sump oil and kerosene or diesel and kerosene is another good option for spraying in and around the body. Especially undernieth.
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