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killalux wrote:are your top mounting pins just bolted in or welded?
i had problems with the nut coming loose on mine so i welded the pins in
bolted - they are cone nuts so if they are done up correctly they should hold better than nylocs - we are looking at using this on our trencher chains at work
we have no problem with the stud on corys ute
one thing - once a cone was is done up it can't be reused ( it stuffs the thread on the bolt and in the nut ) :wink:
http://www.budscustoms.com.au
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v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
The main reason why people are not setting shocks up like that anymore is simply the fact that the shock does not work to its full potential.
A Shock is designed to work vertical or as close as possible to vertical.
By setting the shocks up like this / \ it has an effect on the bump and rebound of the shock!
Also they were setting them up in that fashion so the shock would not limit droop! With some trail and error you should be able to get full stroke out of your shocks without effecting wheel travel and still run them pretty close to vertical.
For those of you that have seen the rear end of my rig realise there is no lack of wheel travel and my shocks are sitting near vertical!!!
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
By setting them up like this / \ would probly get you about 1 or 2 more inches of travel, by getting rancho's you will get about 5 or 6 inches more out of the shock but you probly won't get that out of your springs!!!
I think i saw someone on here selling them for about 145.00 each which is bloody cheap!!
You can set them up like this if you want but before you do take note of how much wheel hop you get when powering it up a hill and then do the same after tou set it up like this / \ HELLO SKIPPY!!!!!!
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Tangent - A line, curve, or surface meeting another line, curve, or surface at a common point and sharing a common tangent line or tangent plane at that point.
Radiate an arc out from your roll axis, your shock should be at perpendicular, to a line drawn from the mid point of the axis of your shockback to a chord running through the centre of the arc you drew. This chord is also the diameter if you complete the arc, making a circle.
10-15deg is about what it will be. Look at the back of a GQ/GU
i knew that i would not have as nice a ride as i did b4 but - for my sakes a 9012 would not give me full up travel on a 4 runner in anywhere near stock locaton
so i opted for this and like a lot of things it is a compramise - watch my rig after i hit a speed bump
http://www.budscustoms.com.au
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v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
run them inwards *slightly* to keep them away from the chassis rails and make up a crossmember to sit above the chassis rails to replace the stock one. This will make up the length without tilting the shocks right in. Should be heaps of space to do this with the body lift...
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!