Ladder bar complete

[Rosey]

Hi Guys,

thought some people may be interest to see how I did my ladder bar, its almost identicle to what superior engineering sells. If you don't have the skills or patients I recommend buying a premade one of Mick. The hiem joint ends cost me $50 each and the steel (32NB) was $60 for 6.5m of which I hardly used any, he sells the entire setup for $350.

I wasn't sure on how to mount the ladder bar as i didn't have a crossmember, so with the help of a mate (Rick, cheers mate) we made this counter lever arm which bolts to the chassis and floor of the truck. So far it works well although I would preferr to go right accross to the other chassis rail (and may redo one day). The only other compaint I have which i will fix when i return from Fraser is the pivot for the shackle is a steel 3/4" bolt through steel flat bar, this rattles and clunks as I load and unload the ladder bar.

The truck is 100% better to drive, no squat or vibration at takeoff. Feels like it goes heaps harder, i assume because that lost energy in swatting is now pushing me forward. Here's some pics

cheers
Rosey

[V8Patrol]

for gawds sake Rosey, isnt it about time ya started a thread in the members section and group ALL ya mods together ???

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... m.php?f=16


kewl track bar but

Kingy

[Rosey]

oh ok, sorry about that, will try that soon.
cheers

[redzook]

i would truss the mount on the diff a bit more or id say it will rip off

[DR Frankenstine]

You will need to lose the mount off the floor. the movement between chassis and body will fatige and crack your floor. it needs to be chassis only mounted.

[bru21]

looks good. i would put a steel strap under the diff mount to the diff to stop it pulling up. and across the top from the sides to the diff (don't weld across the member)

also the floor will crack. runn it across to the other side or truss it forward.

looks good though. ya boot fab is getting good

cheers mate

bru