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Removing rear diff centre?
Moderator: -Scott-
Removing rear diff centre?
Hi Guys,
The main seal in my rear diff is leaking and would like to replace it.
Has anyone here done this before? Is it relatively easy?
I know I will have to remove the axel shafts before I can take the centre out. Do you have to take them all the way out or can you just pull them out a few inches then slide back in once done. Do the shafts come out fairly easily? Anything special when you put the shafts/diff back in.
I have the gregorys manual and having never done anything to this degree before just wondering if there are any "special" things you need to know. What about rear wheel bearings should I replace them while I'm there or at least re grease? That doesn't seem to be real easy going on the manual.
Anyway just after some real world experiences.
Any advice or tips much appreciated.
Cheers
The main seal in my rear diff is leaking and would like to replace it.
Has anyone here done this before? Is it relatively easy?
I know I will have to remove the axel shafts before I can take the centre out. Do you have to take them all the way out or can you just pull them out a few inches then slide back in once done. Do the shafts come out fairly easily? Anything special when you put the shafts/diff back in.
I have the gregorys manual and having never done anything to this degree before just wondering if there are any "special" things you need to know. What about rear wheel bearings should I replace them while I'm there or at least re grease? That doesn't seem to be real easy going on the manual.
Anyway just after some real world experiences.
Any advice or tips much appreciated.
Cheers
92 nh, 3.0 auto, 2' Body lift, cranked T/bars, 31' BFG's on outlaws.
You dont have to remove the diff centre to replace the seal.
I had mine done by local diff shop & he did it in about 30 mins, but I guess he knew what he was doing too.
All he did was remove the rear drive shaft, remove the pinion nut & flange & then replaced the seal.
I had mine done by local diff shop & he did it in about 30 mins, but I guess he knew what he was doing too.
All he did was remove the rear drive shaft, remove the pinion nut & flange & then replaced the seal.
NL 3.5l auto with front & rear lockers,winch, custom 3.15 T/C gears
Ok my mistake, in that case tou have no option but to remove the centre.
BTW there is NO seal or gasket to speak of , the two surfaces are machined & Mitsu & diff shops just use silicon sealant.
I guess you could always make up a gasket from gasket paper.
As far as getting the diff out, I've done this a couple of time now.
make sure you have the vehicle supported well as you have to get under the car.
Its a bugger of a job but heres what I did.
Used a big piece of timber beam sitting on some besser blocks that supported the rear of the vehicle using the factory towbar.
Remove both axles & brake assemblies. Unbolt & remove diff centre. Man its a heavy bugger too so make sure you have a trolley jack under there when it comes out.
Seal & put back in.
BTW its bastard to get oil back into the housing if you dont have the right gear.
ANyway if I had to do another one I would get a diff shop to do it for me, saves a lot of stress.
Have you tried tightening up the bolts tosee if that would stop the leak.
Or maybe put some Moreys thick oil in therem maybe that wont leak.
cheers
BTW there is NO seal or gasket to speak of , the two surfaces are machined & Mitsu & diff shops just use silicon sealant.
I guess you could always make up a gasket from gasket paper.
As far as getting the diff out, I've done this a couple of time now.
make sure you have the vehicle supported well as you have to get under the car.
Its a bugger of a job but heres what I did.
Used a big piece of timber beam sitting on some besser blocks that supported the rear of the vehicle using the factory towbar.
Remove both axles & brake assemblies. Unbolt & remove diff centre. Man its a heavy bugger too so make sure you have a trolley jack under there when it comes out.
Seal & put back in.
BTW its bastard to get oil back into the housing if you dont have the right gear.
ANyway if I had to do another one I would get a diff shop to do it for me, saves a lot of stress.
Have you tried tightening up the bolts tosee if that would stop the leak.
Or maybe put some Moreys thick oil in therem maybe that wont leak.
cheers
NL 3.5l auto with front & rear lockers,winch, custom 3.15 T/C gears
Dont for get you have to drop out the rear toursion bar too.
Got a mate to pull mine out (snapped axel) stood there watching thinking, fark i never want to do it my self. Its a MASSIVE job.[/img]
Got a mate to pull mine out (snapped axel) stood there watching thinking, fark i never want to do it my self. Its a MASSIVE job.[/img]
Cut down Sierra cab on extended LWB chasie running, Hilux front and Bundy back, with a 4AGZE should be finished about umm soon. A 60 Series work truck and some go fast toys too.
Thanks for the tips guys.
AS it happens luck is on my side. Bought some gasket goo the other day to use on the diff face when re-doing it (cost $12, new gasket from repco is $45)
Anyway after degreasing and cleaning it appeared oil was coming from under one of the nuts. Was tight but took it off and cleaned then put some gasket sealer under it and did it up tight and has stopped the leak.
Saved me a lot of time thats for sure.
Cheers
AS it happens luck is on my side. Bought some gasket goo the other day to use on the diff face when re-doing it (cost $12, new gasket from repco is $45)
Anyway after degreasing and cleaning it appeared oil was coming from under one of the nuts. Was tight but took it off and cleaned then put some gasket sealer under it and did it up tight and has stopped the leak.
Saved me a lot of time thats for sure.
Cheers
92 nh, 3.0 auto, 2' Body lift, cranked T/bars, 31' BFG's on outlaws.
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