Just chopped 400 mm of the back of the 60, and starting to do a soa conversion , the prob being i will gain 175mm lift straight away which i dont want so i was wondering what springs to get , wether to get mine reset almost flat or get a set specially made .
Either way im not sure whats best any advice would be great .
Cheers..
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Chopped , soa 60 series What Springs ????
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
HEY CHARGER wrote:yeah ive got pics but have no idea how to put them up .....
email them to me bigsteve@froggy.com.au and i'll host them
Steve
yeshemesh
Re: Chopped , soa 60 series What Springs ????
HEY CHARGER wrote:Just chopped 400 mm of the back of the 60, and starting to do a soa conversion , the prob being i will gain 175mm lift straight away which i dont want so i was wondering what springs to get , wether to get mine reset almost flat or get a set specially made .
Either way im not sure whats best any advice would be great .
Cheers..
if you current ones are nearly flat then run them, flat springs are good springs, they will be nice and soft and offer good flex without your truck begin way to high.
www.overkill4x4.com
ph 94766137
ph 94766137
HYPOFAB Bigsteve the fuel filler ive welded the other half back in to the quater with the little flap door , but ive still got to install the neck and flexeble pipe back to the tank thats the easy bit ,
getting the flap to open nicely well thats a bloody prick , ive spent more time getting that right than the whole cut and shut just about !!!
and the rear glass i was going to try and keep it sliding just get the glass re-cut but the sliding frames that they sit in which i had to cut through are almost impossible to weld back toghether so i will get some proper safety glass cut and with holes in it around the edges so i can put screws through it and then silicon it up, if i carnt get the glass done for a reasonable price good old hammer proof poly carb will do the trick just fine .
and ive cut the rails 110 mm back from the rearest point of the swinging shackle mount which is about as snug as you can get it so my next thing to do is make a new rear bar and attatch it to the rails .
i also cut of and shifted the body mounts forward 400mm so they bolt up in the same spot.
realistically nothing structural has being changed still retained the crossmember under the floor pan which i joined the two pieces together 10 mm away from that for strength, aswell as the roof where i joined it ,it is also 10 mm away from that crossmember.
im bogging the seams up at the moment and i hope to have the rear in highfill over the weekend ,,,,,, if everything goes to plan.
but if Murphy gets his way ive got no hope!!
Cheers Olly.
getting the flap to open nicely well thats a bloody prick , ive spent more time getting that right than the whole cut and shut just about !!!
and the rear glass i was going to try and keep it sliding just get the glass re-cut but the sliding frames that they sit in which i had to cut through are almost impossible to weld back toghether so i will get some proper safety glass cut and with holes in it around the edges so i can put screws through it and then silicon it up, if i carnt get the glass done for a reasonable price good old hammer proof poly carb will do the trick just fine .
and ive cut the rails 110 mm back from the rearest point of the swinging shackle mount which is about as snug as you can get it so my next thing to do is make a new rear bar and attatch it to the rails .
i also cut of and shifted the body mounts forward 400mm so they bolt up in the same spot.
realistically nothing structural has being changed still retained the crossmember under the floor pan which i joined the two pieces together 10 mm away from that for strength, aswell as the roof where i joined it ,it is also 10 mm away from that crossmember.
im bogging the seams up at the moment and i hope to have the rear in highfill over the weekend ,,,,,, if everything goes to plan.
but if Murphy gets his way ive got no hope!!
Cheers Olly.
bob
nice job!
i guess that's one way of cutting rust out of the rear sills.
Chris
i guess that's one way of cutting rust out of the rear sills.
Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
For the springs just use the springs you have now.
Keep removing leaves till you get a good pack.
If you dont take out enough the rig will be too high and stiff.
If you take out too many the pack will be soft and flat and you will need to put in a track bar (which isnt such a bad thing
)
Flat packs will give you good travel and lower CoG but not much load carrying ability.
At the end of the day it comes down to how you want to use your rig.
Also, playing with your current leaf packs is a cheap option
Keep removing leaves till you get a good pack.
If you dont take out enough the rig will be too high and stiff.
If you take out too many the pack will be soft and flat and you will need to put in a track bar (which isnt such a bad thing
)
Flat packs will give you good travel and lower CoG but not much load carrying ability.
At the end of the day it comes down to how you want to use your rig.
Also, playing with your current leaf packs is a cheap option
First of all thanks for the replies,,, 
and
Sixty , i'll take a few more when ive finished the back , and cut of the door sills and fabricate some sliders.
playing with the leaf pack at the moment trying to get them flatter, got a duel stage leaf pack with 8 leafs toooooooo many some have got to go!!!
and
Sixty , i'll take a few more when ive finished the back , and cut of the door sills and fabricate some sliders.
playing with the leaf pack at the moment trying to get them flatter, got a duel stage leaf pack with 8 leafs toooooooo many some have got to go!!!
dont be too fussed on getting the spring pack right straight up - cause it just won't happen. Take the load leaves (at least) out initially. 60 series leaves are very thin and supple compared to lots of other toyota leaves. After removing some leaves and driving / flexing your suspension you will notice the remaining ones sag. Then add leaves as required. If your current leaves are reasonably high, try running just the first 3 untill they sag then add the fourth and fifth as needed. You will get pretty good at removing and re installing the leaf pack!! Your chop job looks tops too!
60 series came out with 2 diferrent types of rear spring packs
one with overload leaf one with out
use the one without and you will find this pack to be about right
you will definatelly with out question need to fit a track bar
The axle wrap on my spo 60 will destroy a spring pack in one
day trip to the bush
And the bob looks grate
one with overload leaf one with out
use the one without and you will find this pack to be about right
you will definatelly with out question need to fit a track bar
The axle wrap on my spo 60 will destroy a spring pack in one
day trip to the bush
And the bob looks grate
Nice work!!! 
I've got a shell in the yard ready to go into the shed for the chop too... Won't be a quick job but something to work on over the next few months.
I'll be getting a post up and running when I start work on it too.
Any more pics of the job well done!!!!
I've got a shell in the yard ready to go into the shed for the chop too... Won't be a quick job but something to work on over the next few months.
I'll be getting a post up and running when I start work on it too.
Any more pics of the job well done!!!!
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
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