Engine swap

[GQJonesy]

Gday
Im just wondering if you can fit a 1.3L suzi engine and box into a 1.0L suzki ute, and if a 1.3L will bolt up to the 1L gearbox. I dunno if there different boxes or all zooks are the same.

Any help would be great thanks

[camskizook]

THe 1.3 wont bolt up to the 4spd.....and besides the engine would be revvin its tits off in 4th gear! Best to get motor + box

[GQJonesy]

Thanks camskizook
Do u know if a whole 1.3L and box will fit into the trayback

[Dozoor]

The problems : you have a 1ltr tunnel which is narrower then the 1.3 tunnell, the engine mounts are in the wrong spot .
I havnt done this conversion but have been told the best way for this one is to do a 2" body lift before the swap. it will cure most of your worrys
The tunnell will have enough clearance and you may be able to retian the 1 ltr bonnet.as the 1.3 motor is taller than a 1ltr.
Id your tunnel : the 1ltr is basic square at the fire wall,1.3 flares out as it reachs the fire wall.
Larry.

[grimbo]

ask kristover he has done the conversion without any problems he is here somewhere

[christover1]

Yes, hes right, I did. It is a conversion, not a straight fit. You need all the parts you can get from a 1.3, like gearbox etc. If ya need to know details, feel free to ask, christover

[Slunnie]

I'd like to know Christover. My 1l is just about to blow its last fart. From what I can gather the conversion is a 2" body lift (which I'd rather not have), new engine mounts (as in rubber or steel bits?). Does it also involve new t/f shaft? Also does the TF need to come over in the transplant, or is it just the 1.3 and 5-sp?

[CRUSHU]

i have a '91? Sierra widetrack chassis with front and rear diffs, tailshafts and transfer case. I think it was a '91 model, but can't be sure. It comes with the jackshaft as well. If interested, call 0438 351 400, comes with std susp as well. it is set up for 1.3 motor and box

[christover1]

I'd like to know Christover. My 1l is just about to blow its last fart. From what I can gather the conversion is a 2" body lift (which I'd rather not have), new engine mounts (as in rubber or steel bits?). Does it also involve new t/f shaft? Also does the TF need to come over in the transplant, or is it just the 1.3 and 5-sp?

Body lift makes it easier, but is not essential. A small amount of bashing, stretching of tunnel will fit it in. Engine mounts I made are no more than 10mm steel plates, bolted to original mounts, and 2 extra holes for new position. Jack shaft (if bolted in std position) can be reused, by changing the Gbox end yoke fer the 1.3 type. Keeping original 1.0 litre case gives you lower , much better gearing. Gbox mount was a flat plate with 2 t-case mounts, bolted to original Gbox cross member. Many small things like Acc cables, alternator wires need fiddling with, christover

[Slunnie]

Good stuff! Thanks for this info Christover, this is very useful. Speaking with Suzisport I was starting to think it was a pretty complex undertaking and good 1.0 engines are apparently becoming harder to come by. No body lift and use of the 1.0l TF are great tips.

[christover1]

best to use the 1.3 radiator, as the 1.o is a little low, and choke wont werk without water flowing thru it. can get away with the 1.0 , I did fer a while. I left the 1.0 rad mounts on the chassis, cut them ruffly in half, and bolted angle iron to them, then 1.3 rad bolts to angle iron. measure well before cutting anything. the area around rad, hoses, clutch cable, steering box is very tight, so be accurate. the 1.0 jack-shaft is slightly longer, so a 1.3 be easier, and stronger(I not broke anything yet tho). I used the 1.0 because thats all I had. I moved engine forward 10mm from standard to allow for that. Only prob was rad and fan too close. Trimming 10mm off the fan spacer fixed that.
If a shop does it, they need to consider safety, law, profit, warrantee. So it will cost more, they have to. christover

[christover1]

with no body lift, you may need a bulge in bonnet, or a 1.3 bonnet.

[Slunnie]

Thanks for this Christover, this info is brilliant. With the conversion is it something that needs engineering or is it simply seen as an upgrade and so engineering isn't required?

BTW, I've joined the Yahoo group in your sig, and there are some good technical thoughts going on in there.

[N*A*M]

if you don't weld or cut chassis, you might not need to get engineering because you're upgrading to another engine offered by the manufacturer in the same family as your original engine.

[Slunnie]

Just looking at the RTA web site. In a nut shell, it seems like (from what I can interpret) that no engineering cert is needed because the 1.3l engine was an option with the sierra.

[christover1]

Just looking at the RTA web site. In a nut shell, it seems like (from what I can interpret) that no engineering cert is needed because the 1.3l engine was an option with the sierra.

Thats what I thought, too. But never got round to telling them, cause wasnt sure. If my new engine iz good, will tell RTA, and test the theory. Our Yahoo group is mostly members of the Suzuki 4WD Club of Victoria. But all are welcome, christover

[christover1]

I can post some conversion pix, on our Yahoo Group site, if you wish, christover

[robbie]

either an engine that is offered by the same model, or a 15% increase in size and you don't need an engineers I think..

providing no welding to the chassie has been performed to stick the motor in.

engine conversions are fun++

[Midget]

G'day
I've done the conversion also and i had to cut the 1ltr engine mounts off and weld in place the 1.3 engine mounts,so i had to it engineered and also blue slipped to change the rego details.
Regards Jamie

[christover1]

G'day
I've done the conversion also and i had to cut the 1ltr engine mounts off and weld in place the 1.3 engine mounts,so i had to it engineered and also blue slipped to change the rego details.
Regards Jamie

I just bolted plates to the original mounts, then bolted engine to the plates, no welds, hopefully ok wid rta, christover