Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Panel cutting
Moderator: Micka
Panel cutting
Well the D2 has a new set of 35's and is ready to have the panels cut and flexy flares fitted.
My plan is to cut the panels down and use tabs to fold back a new lip under the guard. I've been told to drill a hole at the end of each snip to prevent the panel from further cracking due to flex. This will also give a surface to screw the flexi flares onto. The tabs should also be backed and rivited to a strip of aluminium also which I assume to to keep everything rigid.
For the rear doors I'm hoping to crush the skins together by bending the inner skin and then tab, fold and screw.
Any other ideas or comments before I hack and drill like there is no tomorrow and destroy my P&J.
My plan is to cut the panels down and use tabs to fold back a new lip under the guard. I've been told to drill a hole at the end of each snip to prevent the panel from further cracking due to flex. This will also give a surface to screw the flexi flares onto. The tabs should also be backed and rivited to a strip of aluminium also which I assume to to keep everything rigid.
For the rear doors I'm hoping to crush the skins together by bending the inner skin and then tab, fold and screw.
Any other ideas or comments before I hack and drill like there is no tomorrow and destroy my P&J.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
If you don't want to create a lip around the guards, you can get flexy flares that screw in from the front instead of the side.
They look just the same, except they don't have the internal wire to keep the shape.
Have fun with the rear doors! I've cut the piss out of mine, but i've yet to seal up the gap, and yes, it does look VERY rude.
Make sure you take pics for everyone else's benefit, as a lot of people are doing this and asking how.
They look just the same, except they don't have the internal wire to keep the shape.
Have fun with the rear doors! I've cut the piss out of mine, but i've yet to seal up the gap, and yes, it does look VERY rude.
Make sure you take pics for everyone else's benefit, as a lot of people are doing this and asking how.
Thats the plan, some extra width would be very nice, though later if I go wider I can snip some more sheet out. I've spoken to Rangie Spares about it and they are planning on developing the flare for the Disco2, but are currently working on 36" flares with adjustable widths to keep up with the Rangie competition market. Hopefully the D2 flares will be made around Feb from what I've heard from a Sydney dealer, though I'm not holding my breath. They have adapted some D1 flares onto the D2 which took a bit of fibre glassing though they still were not happy with the end result.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
2 months ago I'd have been keen on these new flares, But I'm extremely close on ditching the whole Disco body and tubing it to shave off a lot of weight and get a lower center of gravity...
I itch everytime I see them 42" IROKS :(
I itch everytime I see them 42" IROKS :(
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
DiscoDino wrote:
I itch everytime I see them 42" IROKS :(
And so does your drivetrain, but not the same itch
After fitting my nissan diffs I have a major width issue, I went to cut the guards and fit flexi flares but the 65mm ones aren't wide enough !!! I will post up new thread about conversion
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
Good one DAS...
with the 4340, I should be able to get that doneeasily with 42s...remember that these tires are a LOT lighter than any others of the same dimesion.
Cheers
with the 4340, I should be able to get that doneeasily with 42s...remember that these tires are a LOT lighter than any others of the same dimesion.
Cheers
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Its got a DC at the t/f end. One of the uni's in the Double Cardin joint collapsed. 2 of the 4 bearings in it collapsed actually. I was out playing rough with it on the weekend with MaxTD5def, and it wouldn't surprise me if it happened then, but the driveline fella took one look and said the uni was dry. LR in their wisdom made these sealed for life, though the new ones now have grease nipples. ITs back together now, I've just got to take the new rear one back for some more machining to fit over the massive 4.11 pinion bolt.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests