Hey guys gotta a bit of a pickle happening as we speak. Bought this MQ LWB back in march with 154k on it ( SD33 4Spd ) and i thought i would be in for years of trouble free motoring with the lack of kms on the clock.
Now they are genuine kms but it seems the old man that owned it babied her a bit too much and me mechanic mate says the cylinders are glazed or something and that the engine needs work. Its currently burning oil like fuel and using way too much juice.
I dont want to get rid of the old MQ cause its kinda grown on me and i would like to put a decent pulling motor keeping in mind i do more travelling along the blacktop rather than off road so decent fuel economy is always on my mind.
I was thinking of a holden v6 or something along those lines, possibly injected but i dont know how much hassel it would be.
The old diesel even though its stuffed will probally last for another 150k but all i need is to get pulled over by the cops and im stuffed, any thoughts?????
Marc
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What to do Mr MQ
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Looked at the V6 option a few years back and I'm glad to say there is no kit availiable for said conversion......
Reason being that the V6 simply hasnt the grunt required to do the job and this is why the manafactures dont make a conversion for the V6 into a patrol.
best option is probably to buy another motor the same as you have allready, swap em over and have the current donk rebuilt and then swap em, back.
This will give you a few options,
you can keep the 2nd motor as a complete spare or sell it after the rebuild or again keep if for spare parts.... spare head, injector pump etc etc
or if its in better nick then you would have the choice of rebuilding the better of the two engines, this may work out slightly cheaper.
Conversions cost $$$$$,
replacement or rebuilt motors work out to about 1/2 the price in comparision.
There's also the added costs of engineering a V6, V8 + LPG system etc etc
for the cheapest way out stay std motor as there are so many less complications involved.
Reason being that the V6 simply hasnt the grunt required to do the job and this is why the manafactures dont make a conversion for the V6 into a patrol.
best option is probably to buy another motor the same as you have allready, swap em over and have the current donk rebuilt and then swap em, back.
This will give you a few options,
you can keep the 2nd motor as a complete spare or sell it after the rebuild or again keep if for spare parts.... spare head, injector pump etc etc
or if its in better nick then you would have the choice of rebuilding the better of the two engines, this may work out slightly cheaper.
Conversions cost $$$$$,
replacement or rebuilt motors work out to about 1/2 the price in comparision.
There's also the added costs of engineering a V6, V8 + LPG system etc etc
for the cheapest way out stay std motor as there are so many less complications involved.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
turps wrote:Sounds like a bit more than just a glaze problem. But if it is, get it warm then give it a good flogging. Towing a trailer would be good. And if it is not real health dont be scared to rev it a bit.
Also heard of a company that one of the drivers did this to one of the trucks, then it was passed onto one of the lead foots to give it a hiding and that did do the trick to fix it.
Mere
i know not the answer to your question but go buy some 2 stroke diesel engine oil from a Truck parts joint or a Detroit Diesel dealer. Chuck it in your rig. hook up a heavy trailer and go driving up steep hills for 2 hours. Leave that oil in for about a 1000 kays and then drain it and go back to normal oil. That oil is designed for engines that glaze really easily with light running and it will roughen up your bores and she should be back to normal in no time. Worked for me even in a 308 in a Ute!!
Okay good info coming fella's. I was kinda thinking of somekind of upgrade due to the fact the SD33 aint the fastest thing on the road, in fact i almost beat a tractor the other day 
Worse than that my mate has just finished an 5ltr efi conversion on his 80 series and its so much faster its not even funny.
MArc
Worse than that my mate has just finished an 5ltr efi conversion on his 80 series and its so much faster its not even funny.
MArc
I know you said you wanna upgrqade anyway, But when i bought my mq ute it had same problem. Couldnt see out the back mirror for all the smoke(blue,black and white) i just pulled sump off cleaned it out put new oil and filter, a bit of moreys in her and presto. With a fair bit of load on her and long running she has almost cleared right up. Oil consumption is almost nill provided i keep my foot half off the throttle(more an oil leak at rpm at oil cooler than stuffed rings). As for th concersion good luck. My patrol is the only thing that'll keep me under/close enough to the spped limit. I got a jag with 350 chev and it sits in the shed cause i cant afford the fines anymore.
Chhers
Chhers
Hmmmm im in perth!! Dont particulary feel like paying that much in courier costs but thanks anyway.
Kingy you were saying that conversions cost $$$ which i can imagine they do but do they really cost that much and is it that much hassel. I look in the quokka over here ( Trading post ) and a third of the ones for sale have had v8 conversions.
Kinda feel the need for speed:)
MArc
Kingy you were saying that conversions cost $$$ which i can imagine they do but do they really cost that much and is it that much hassel. I look in the quokka over here ( Trading post ) and a third of the ones for sale have had v8 conversions.
Kinda feel the need for speed:)
MArc
God of Magnificant Ideas!
The costs are directly porportionate to your abillities like a seesaw !!!
Low abilities = High costs
High abilities = low costs
Basically you'll need......
Bellhousing addaptor ---- cost under $500 for a belhousing. I only use the Castlemain rodshop stuff here because of reputation, strength, & he's only 2 hours away from me !.
For an additional $80 he'll drill it to suit both holden and chev block patterns which gives you an option of either motor choice. There are other makers of such bellhousings listed in the "Bible" under V8 Conversions.
Flywheel ---- I recemend you use a flywheel from the "red holden V8 motor" as they are stronger and heavier unit than later model flywheels, the extra weight will help with engine torque.
A 2nd hand flywheel should be around the $50 mark, you'll also need to have it drilled to suit the chev crank if using a chev engine, cost here is around the $100 mark or 20 mins with a file !!!
Pressure plate ---- I use a "Heavy duty tow pak" holden red motor pressure plate, it bolt straight up to the flywheel !
Clutch plate ---- here i use a 250mm plate from a 99 model TDI nissan, they arent cheap but well worth it !
I have used the std SD33 clutch pak ( pressure & clutch plates) but found that they only last a year or so under heavy duty conditions ( 350 chev + heavy foot !! ) ...... they also dont like water much at all !
If you use the SD33 clutch pak then add $80 for redrilling the flywheel to suit the nissan clutch pak.
Spigot bush ---- Castlemaine rod shop supply a spigot to suit the L28 only, you'll need a mate with a lathe to machine one up to suit the SD33 setup.
The differance is in the gearbox's front shaft, the L28s is 10mm longer and needs to be trimmed back ( angle grinder style !! ) otherwise it rubs hard up against the crank and makes gear changing messy & doesnt do the front shaft any good either !! The opposite is needed for the SD33, its 10mm to short so you need to make an "extended spigot bush" to pickup the front shaft on the SD33 gearbox.
FIT NEW SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDERS FOR THE CLUTCH WHILE DOING THE CONVERSION .......................... trust me, its a pain doing it later on !
Engine mounts ---- The SD33 chassis will require the mounts on the to be cut off and moved back for either the chev or holden motor unless you fit a 5spd box at the same time in which case they need to be moved forward. The std chev to HQ holden mounts work well ($50 for a pair)
Biggest problem is with the holden motor, the oil pump & filter location on that motor is bad when it comes to clearance on the engine mounts on the nissan chassis ........ youlll see what I mean when it comes to fitting time !!
Firewall ------- Here's an ugly ........ if you have a 4spd then find a big hammer, ( phuckin big hammer ) IE: SLEDGE HAMMER and "massage" the firewall, you'll need to gain an inch so that the heads/rockercovers clear ( moreso on the passengers side with the holden motor ). This is why I strongly suggest you fit a 5 spd box as it pushes the motor forward so it clears the firewall with ease. Altering a firewall is a big NO NO for engineering in some states so check before you start massaging it !
Headders ---- the std castiron manifolds do the job ok untill you do a deep river xing. A set of "block huggers" extractors will solve this instantly. Visit the Castlemaine AUTO ELECTRICS site as listed in the bible for further details.
A single 2.5 inch exhaust system works really well and should be around the $350 mark fitted.
Radiator ---- There IS a differance between the ones in MQ/MKs ..... if you have a sd33 with aircon then smile.....you have the right one ! For those wondering what the diff is then try counting the number of cores on a std L28 with out aircon and then counting the number on a SD33 with aircon ( hint --- there are extra cores in the sd33 with aircon radiator
).
If you can solder then changing inlet/outlets for the radiator hoses is childs play, if not find a plumber mate ...... plumbers also have a good selection of copper bends for the bottom outlet
Radiator Cowl & Cooling ---- Here is where trial and error plays a huge part and it would take me all day to list everything so I'll cut it short....
If you go Chev & 5 spd then a std SD33 cowl will fit perfectly PROVIDED you set up the engine height ( engine mounts ) with the radiator & cowl in place
If you go Chev & 4 spd then make a new cowl
If you go Holden and 5 spd make a new cowl
If you go holden and 5 spd make a new cowl.
I hear of ppl having lots of dramas after doing a V8 conversion and keeping the motor cool, I have found that the ONLY way is to run an engine fan with a 16" thermo as a BACKUP.
I've tried......
a single 16" thermo
twin 10" thermos with no engine fan
twin 10" thermos on one side and twin 10" thermos on the other side
twin 10" thermos on one side and a 16" on the other side
All of these failed to cool the motor reliabily enough yet fitting an engine fan did the job to 99% satisfaction, fitting a 16" thermo aswell made it 110% satisfaction or ya money back !
Electrical ---- It takes about 15 mins to have it rewired well enough to start the V8, add and hour or 2 to make it all pretty !
Fuel tank---- straight forward here, dump the diesel and fill with petrol !
For engineering reasons LPG is a must do in some states and this will also depend on the choice of engine too. A later model motor has less emmision restrictions so duel fuel may be an option. Older motors IE red motor holden WILL require straight LPG.
Extras ----- get friendly with the local Autobarn/Autopro/SuperCheap outlets, you'll need to "borrow" several belts, radiator hoses etc when it comes to finding the right combination to suit, then ya return the others !
The painful bits ----- if you have aircon & or pwr steering then you'll need to custom make the mounts for these items...... 6mm steel plate and time is required, they can be a real painfull job at times ( probably the reason why many ppl ditch the aircon completely )
Summary---- a V8 can be fitted in a w/end with ease for the mechanically skilled backyarder, add a day or 3 for a custom cowl, aircon barcket, & pwr str bracket.
You'll need access to a mig or acr welder, plumbers soldering irons, oxy accetelene, and a lathe....... Other than that a good tool kit with both metric and imperial spanners/sockets should see you well into the conversion.
V8 Nissan Patrol ...... once you drive one you wont go back
Kingy
P/S
IF YOU GET STUCK ........... ASK
Low abilities = High costs
High abilities = low costs
Basically you'll need......
Bellhousing addaptor ---- cost under $500 for a belhousing. I only use the Castlemain rodshop stuff here because of reputation, strength, & he's only 2 hours away from me !.
For an additional $80 he'll drill it to suit both holden and chev block patterns which gives you an option of either motor choice. There are other makers of such bellhousings listed in the "Bible" under V8 Conversions.
Flywheel ---- I recemend you use a flywheel from the "red holden V8 motor" as they are stronger and heavier unit than later model flywheels, the extra weight will help with engine torque.
A 2nd hand flywheel should be around the $50 mark, you'll also need to have it drilled to suit the chev crank if using a chev engine, cost here is around the $100 mark or 20 mins with a file !!!
Pressure plate ---- I use a "Heavy duty tow pak" holden red motor pressure plate, it bolt straight up to the flywheel !
Clutch plate ---- here i use a 250mm plate from a 99 model TDI nissan, they arent cheap but well worth it !
I have used the std SD33 clutch pak ( pressure & clutch plates) but found that they only last a year or so under heavy duty conditions ( 350 chev + heavy foot !! ) ...... they also dont like water much at all !
If you use the SD33 clutch pak then add $80 for redrilling the flywheel to suit the nissan clutch pak.
Spigot bush ---- Castlemaine rod shop supply a spigot to suit the L28 only, you'll need a mate with a lathe to machine one up to suit the SD33 setup.
The differance is in the gearbox's front shaft, the L28s is 10mm longer and needs to be trimmed back ( angle grinder style !! ) otherwise it rubs hard up against the crank and makes gear changing messy & doesnt do the front shaft any good either !! The opposite is needed for the SD33, its 10mm to short so you need to make an "extended spigot bush" to pickup the front shaft on the SD33 gearbox.
FIT NEW SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDERS FOR THE CLUTCH WHILE DOING THE CONVERSION .......................... trust me, its a pain doing it later on !
Engine mounts ---- The SD33 chassis will require the mounts on the to be cut off and moved back for either the chev or holden motor unless you fit a 5spd box at the same time in which case they need to be moved forward. The std chev to HQ holden mounts work well ($50 for a pair)
Biggest problem is with the holden motor, the oil pump & filter location on that motor is bad when it comes to clearance on the engine mounts on the nissan chassis ........ youlll see what I mean when it comes to fitting time !!
Firewall ------- Here's an ugly ........ if you have a 4spd then find a big hammer, ( phuckin big hammer ) IE: SLEDGE HAMMER and "massage" the firewall, you'll need to gain an inch so that the heads/rockercovers clear ( moreso on the passengers side with the holden motor ). This is why I strongly suggest you fit a 5 spd box as it pushes the motor forward so it clears the firewall with ease. Altering a firewall is a big NO NO for engineering in some states so check before you start massaging it !
Headders ---- the std castiron manifolds do the job ok untill you do a deep river xing. A set of "block huggers" extractors will solve this instantly. Visit the Castlemaine AUTO ELECTRICS site as listed in the bible for further details.
A single 2.5 inch exhaust system works really well and should be around the $350 mark fitted.
Radiator ---- There IS a differance between the ones in MQ/MKs ..... if you have a sd33 with aircon then smile.....you have the right one ! For those wondering what the diff is then try counting the number of cores on a std L28 with out aircon and then counting the number on a SD33 with aircon ( hint --- there are extra cores in the sd33 with aircon radiator
).
If you can solder then changing inlet/outlets for the radiator hoses is childs play, if not find a plumber mate ...... plumbers also have a good selection of copper bends for the bottom outlet
Radiator Cowl & Cooling ---- Here is where trial and error plays a huge part and it would take me all day to list everything so I'll cut it short....
If you go Chev & 5 spd then a std SD33 cowl will fit perfectly PROVIDED you set up the engine height ( engine mounts ) with the radiator & cowl in place
If you go Chev & 4 spd then make a new cowl
If you go Holden and 5 spd make a new cowl
If you go holden and 5 spd make a new cowl.
I hear of ppl having lots of dramas after doing a V8 conversion and keeping the motor cool, I have found that the ONLY way is to run an engine fan with a 16" thermo as a BACKUP.
I've tried......
a single 16" thermo
twin 10" thermos with no engine fan
twin 10" thermos on one side and twin 10" thermos on the other side
twin 10" thermos on one side and a 16" on the other side
All of these failed to cool the motor reliabily enough yet fitting an engine fan did the job to 99% satisfaction, fitting a 16" thermo aswell made it 110% satisfaction or ya money back !
Electrical ---- It takes about 15 mins to have it rewired well enough to start the V8, add and hour or 2 to make it all pretty !
Fuel tank---- straight forward here, dump the diesel and fill with petrol !
For engineering reasons LPG is a must do in some states and this will also depend on the choice of engine too. A later model motor has less emmision restrictions so duel fuel may be an option. Older motors IE red motor holden WILL require straight LPG.
Extras ----- get friendly with the local Autobarn/Autopro/SuperCheap outlets, you'll need to "borrow" several belts, radiator hoses etc when it comes to finding the right combination to suit, then ya return the others !
The painful bits ----- if you have aircon & or pwr steering then you'll need to custom make the mounts for these items...... 6mm steel plate and time is required, they can be a real painfull job at times ( probably the reason why many ppl ditch the aircon completely )
Summary---- a V8 can be fitted in a w/end with ease for the mechanically skilled backyarder, add a day or 3 for a custom cowl, aircon barcket, & pwr str bracket.
You'll need access to a mig or acr welder, plumbers soldering irons, oxy accetelene, and a lathe....... Other than that a good tool kit with both metric and imperial spanners/sockets should see you well into the conversion.
V8 Nissan Patrol ...... once you drive one you wont go back
Kingy
P/S
IF YOU GET STUCK ........... ASK
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Jesus thanks for the awesome write up. Now im stuck with a what size engine do i go for.
253 or will i get bored in about a minute or 308?? I dunno if i wanna go for the chev....tempting though I wanna do this and between me and some friends but the thing im most scared of is getting stuck and being without my truck for six months.
MArc
253 or will i get bored in about a minute or 308?? I dunno if i wanna go for the chev....tempting though
I wanna do this and between me and some friends but the thing im most scared of is getting stuck and being without my truck for six months.
MArc
God of Magnificant Ideas!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
.gif)
Shark wrote:a conversion with a ford motor
This is solved in the holden/chev conversion by fitting a sump and oil pickup from a holden red motor .......MQ Patrol wrote:the sump hitting the front diff.
ford = shyte .
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Ohhh
Don't poke the bear....
Mind you Ford stuff ain't as bad as people think.... all this holden vs ford is crap. Both have merrits and both have inhetrent problems also...
Hemi 6 - GRUNT GRUNT.... Ohhhhh YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I know a guy with a 3128 in an MQ though - truck motor he he he
Mind you Ford stuff ain't as bad as people think.... all this holden vs ford is crap. Both have merrits and both have inhetrent problems also...
Hemi 6 - GRUNT GRUNT.... Ohhhhh YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I know a guy with a 3128 in an MQ though - truck motor he he he
MQ/MK Parts for sale!!!! See for sale section!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Re: Ohhh
Patroldude wrote:Hemi 6 - GRUNT GRUNT.... Ohhhhh YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
If only we could still buy em newish
Now and E49 ........... that would rule !,..... just dont go past too many petrol stations !!
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Motor
Nah Kingy - If you won Tats - twin turbo 6.8 GMC Diesel.....
MQ/MK Parts for sale!!!! See for sale section!
Castlemaine Rodshop have gearbox adapters to suit the Toyota 1UZFE V8 now...pretty cheap too. The motors can be got for $900.
Need other stuff like sump, clutch, etc...
Not as much grunt than a Ford/Chev but 100kw more than standard cant be bad.
Should be good economy - mine will be finished soon and will post figures.
Need other stuff like sump, clutch, etc...
Not as much grunt than a Ford/Chev but 100kw more than standard cant be bad.
Should be good economy - mine will be finished soon and will post figures.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Re: Motor
Patroldude wrote:Nah Kingy - If you won Tats - twin turbo 6.8 GMC Diesel.....
Kingy drools
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
For a LWB, wieghing in at about 2.3 tonne, a 253 will be quicker than your current motor, but will not be powerful enough to keep u satisfied.
Im happy with the 308 in my rig around town and offroad, though it does loose the grunt up hills and climbs etc especially with the big tyres.
a 308 would be fine for you though as u are only running smaller tyres, mine dies out a fair bit on 38's.
I was wheeling with Kingy the other week and couldnt for the life of money keep up with him at all in my 308 on 38s and hes running a 350 on 35's. I had nothin, up hills i kept dying and he kept accelerating.
i wouldnt have any dramas on say 31 though 33 inc tyres though.
chev would be good for ur rig but worse on fuel. Go 308.
if u do long distance though u obviously wouldnt want to go LPG?
and so therefore u want petrol and wouldnt want to know about the carbi V8s as they are thirsty as.
So injected. So leaves u with the VN onwards 304 injected holden motors, or GEN111 350s in the later models ( these motors are still abotu around 6K to buy though... ).
id say go 308 on gas with 2 large tanks, or on large and one petrol running duel fuel. the motor will be enough for your needs.
cheers
screwy
Im happy with the 308 in my rig around town and offroad, though it does loose the grunt up hills and climbs etc especially with the big tyres.
a 308 would be fine for you though as u are only running smaller tyres, mine dies out a fair bit on 38's.
I was wheeling with Kingy the other week and couldnt for the life of money keep up with him at all in my 308 on 38s and hes running a 350 on 35's. I had nothin, up hills i kept dying and he kept accelerating.
i wouldnt have any dramas on say 31 though 33 inc tyres though.
chev would be good for ur rig but worse on fuel. Go 308.
if u do long distance though u obviously wouldnt want to go LPG?
and so therefore u want petrol and wouldnt want to know about the carbi V8s as they are thirsty as.
So injected. So leaves u with the VN onwards 304 injected holden motors, or GEN111 350s in the later models ( these motors are still abotu around 6K to buy though... ).
id say go 308 on gas with 2 large tanks, or on large and one petrol running duel fuel. the motor will be enough for your needs.
cheers
screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
God of Magnificant Ideas!
it wasnt just the hills either !!!Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:I was wheeling with Kingy the other week and couldnt for the love of money keep up with him at all in my 308 on 38s and hes running a 350 on 35's. I had nothin, up hills i kept dying and he kept accelerating.
cheers
screwy
I wonder how many forums I can post this "priceless pic" on
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
V8Patrol wrote:it wasnt just the hills either !!!Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:I was wheeling with Kingy the other week and couldnt for the love of money keep up with him at all in my 308 on 38s and hes running a 350 on 35's. I had nothin, up hills i kept dying and he kept accelerating.
cheers
screwy
I wonder how many forums I can post this "priceless pic" on
FARK IT!?!?!
I was wondering how long it would take you to post that god dam pic.
For those who actually care about my defence to this........
We were wheeling in the otways in VIC and i got bogged after the Kingy got through and towed the other 2 cars through.
What i didnt know is that SOMEONE UNLOCKED MY HUBS WITHOUT MY KNOWLEDGE JUST BEFORE THIS BOG
So i was in 2 wheeldrive.
it wasnt till after i was towed out did someone fill me in on the little trick, so hence this pic was taken.
Throughout the days events i beleive i towed Kingy out of holes that he was generally stuck in at least 3-4 Times and we was in 4x4.
I did not get stuck in all the problem spots that the other boys including kingy were hooked up in.
not to mention that when kingy did get stuck a list of expensive little damages did occur i do beleive, a i broke my locker air line and a couple of side mirrors.......
I have pics of Kingy stuck but cant upload atm, but will.
screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
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