Aquarangie wrote: plus I have a spare 3.5 sitting on the fllor in the garage
is the 3.5 a carbie or efi? How much do ya want for it buddy ol pal! he he!
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Engine Upgrade
Moderator: Micka
[quote="TuffRR"]I have the P76 in mine and have had no problems with overheating (when it has been running 
)quote]
I have had mine for 6 years. Have ran a number of different radiators, fans, etc. Have replaced water pump, timing cover housing, and a additional overflow tank. Have put bleeders on the rear of the heads and now run 4 thermo fans on it. When ever you drive slowly around or start working the motor, you just watch the temp guage rise. Below 20c days its not too bad. 25c to 30c you have to watch it carefully. Above 30c, you don't even bother going out in the bush
)quote]
I have had mine for 6 years. Have ran a number of different radiators, fans, etc. Have replaced water pump, timing cover housing, and a additional overflow tank. Have put bleeders on the rear of the heads and now run 4 thermo fans on it. When ever you drive slowly around or start working the motor, you just watch the temp guage rise. Below 20c days its not too bad. 25c to 30c you have to watch it carefully. Above 30c, you don't even bother going out in the bush
P76
Well thanks guys....I'm about to do the P76 conversion this weekend and all I'm hearing is hot hot hot!
Oh well, I'll keep you posted how it goes but if you see me on the side of the road with the bonnet up you'll know its me I guess.
MATT GOLD COAST
Oh well, I'll keep you posted how it goes but if you see me on the side of the road with the bonnet up you'll know its me I guess.
MATT GOLD COAST
p76rangie wrote:I have had mine for 6 years. Have ran a number of different radiators, fans, etc. Have replaced water pump, timing cover housing, and a additional overflow tank. Have put bleeders on the rear of the heads and now run 4 thermo fans on it. When ever you drive slowly around or start working the motor, you just watch the temp guage rise. Below 20c days its not too bad. 25c to 30c you have to watch it carefully. Above 30c, you don't even bother going out in the bush
If you can't go out when above 30 degrees then you definately have an overheating problem.
My 79 P76 Rangie will sit on 80 degrees all day except when it's 35 to 40 degrees, and then it sits on about 95 degrees.
Beach work is slightly different, and it creeps up to 90-95 degrees on moderate days (haven't been on the beach in 40 degrees).
I only have the original viscous fan, and a 4 core (I think) radiator.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
I was aware of people having problems with the 4.4 overheating so i put an aftermarket temp gauge in coz the std rover one is useless!!! Using the gauge mine is lucky to crack about 90 degrees working hard.
I read of someone saying that the rocker ratio on some 4.4 caused overheating but i never really looked into this possibility as i havent had any problems.
BTW, i have a high mount winch and some big fat spotties in front of the grille so airflow is far from ideal but still no dramas.
I read of someone saying that the rocker ratio on some 4.4 caused overheating but i never really looked into this possibility as i havent had any problems.
BTW, i have a high mount winch and some big fat spotties in front of the grille so airflow is far from ideal but still no dramas.
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
P76
Thanks Fellas, the anxiety has eased somewhat now after hearing that. Thankfully I have already test driven this motor in an existing rangie and she runs quite cool! The motor is a 4.4 taken to
5.0 and built by Jeff Lennox from the Sunny Coast. It has been superbly built with ported heads, stainless valves (for LPG), blueprinted and balanced, matched inlet manifolds, electronic ignition etc. It has rejetted CD Stromberg carbys (Rangie originals) fitted so it will run upside down. It is a high output motor but too get really serious HP a 500 holley or bigger would be needed. For me, I'd rather just run with the extra cubes on a good motor knowing I can drive it anywhere than have MAX HP with a different carb but flood and stall when I go off the beaten track.
We'll see how it goes...
MATTA
5.0 and built by Jeff Lennox from the Sunny Coast. It has been superbly built with ported heads, stainless valves (for LPG), blueprinted and balanced, matched inlet manifolds, electronic ignition etc. It has rejetted CD Stromberg carbys (Rangie originals) fitted so it will run upside down. It is a high output motor but too get really serious HP a 500 holley or bigger would be needed. For me, I'd rather just run with the extra cubes on a good motor knowing I can drive it anywhere than have MAX HP with a different carb but flood and stall when I go off the beaten track.
We'll see how it goes...
MATTA
Harry (Ralf the RR). On the road I do not have an issue unless I run the air-con on high 30 days. In the bush on relatively flat ground, will still sit at 80 that is where the thermostat cuts in. But start putting it up a decent hill or driving slowly around continuous hill and she heats up. Doesn't often go above 100 unless it is an above 30 day. I usually pull over at 110, but a couple of times I have taken it to 120. She will heat up in the snow, so it is not the radiator. They just run hot.
p76rangie wrote:Doesn't often go above 100 unless it is an above 30 day. I usually pull over at 110, but a couple of times I have taken it to 120. She will heat up in the snow, so it is not the radiator. They just run hot.
So it's not realy overheating at all, it runs a little warm.
I reckon anything up to about 110 is probably OK (a little on the hot side).
120 is not my idea of a good time.
Mine has never been past 100, and it does go bush (love Walaroo) and the beach (but never on realy hot days).
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
None of you guys mention modifying the front cover to improve oiling.
Over here a common mod is to cut the front cover in half and attach a V6 commonwhore lower half front cover to fit the V6 oil pump.Apparently this improves the oil pressure loss problems.
The other thing is a cradle taking in all the sump bolts to support the main caps, I thought this was a must with high HP or a blower.
J Top
Over here a common mod is to cut the front cover in half and attach a V6 commonwhore lower half front cover to fit the V6 oil pump.Apparently this improves the oil pressure loss problems.
The other thing is a cradle taking in all the sump bolts to support the main caps, I thought this was a must with high HP or a blower.
J Top
p76rangie wrote:Ralf, do you run an oil pressure guage. What happens to the oil pressure when your at 100c.
Not realy sure. At 100 degrees, I seem to pay more attention to the temp gauge.
The oil temp also rises. Just below 90 degrees. Probably 80-85.
From memory, the oil pressure is a little lower.
Mine usually sits on 250-300KPa at 2000rpm.
I use penrite HPR30.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
J Top wrote:None of you guys mention modifying the front cover to improve oiling.
Over here a common mod is to cut the front cover in half and attach a V6 commonwhore lower half front cover to fit the V6 oil pump.Apparently this improves the oil pressure loss problems.
The other thing is a cradle taking in all the sump bolts to support the main caps, I thought this was a must with high HP or a blower.
J Top
I don't actually understand any of this.
What front cover? Of what?
I also don't get what you mean about a cradle, sump bolts, and main caps!
Sump bolts are external, main bearing caps are internal.
Any pics on what you are on about?
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
The commo front cover carries the oil pump and both engines are Buick based.The crank goes thru the oil pump instead of it being of to one side like the rover and is more efficent so you cut the front cover under the rover water pump and attach the lower half of the V6 cover to it.
The cradle for the mains requires 2 sump gaskets and is sandwiched between the sump and the block as a one piece unit with gaps for the crank webs to pass thru.
J Top
The cradle for the mains requires 2 sump gaskets and is sandwiched between the sump and the block as a one piece unit with gaps for the crank webs to pass thru.
J Top
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