Have recently rebuilt the old 2H, and is now rego'd again. But since it's been rebuilt it has a knocking noise that's there at idle.. just, and gets more predominant while running at higher revs.
All valve clearences are right, checked them twice now(hot). Seem to think it may be an injector, or something else.... maybe??? Any ideas???
PS: when I say rebuilt, "everything" was redone, new injectors, inj pump reco'd, new water pump... all that shiat etc. Just so it gives some sort of idea what work was done, definitely not a half hearted effort of a rebuild.
Cheers,
Brighty.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
knocking noise in 60series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
knocking noise in 60series
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Shadow wrote:how much did the rebuild end up costing, thinking of rebuilding my 2H atm
was it a sleeve or a rebore 2H ?
got no idea what the noise could be
hope you've been saving. After the engineer resleeved it and new everything rebolted and dropped back in + inj pump reco'd. Total cost was about the $5000-$5500 mark by memory. Thats with me and a mechanic mate puttin it ALL back together and getting it up and going again. So add a bit more if you are getting it done by someone else. I would recommend you get it done by someone you can trust, that way you know it'll be all quality work at the end of the day, no point spending that much $$$ for half a job.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Tidy42 wrote:I think ruffs question was towards the pumps timing on assembly As for the oil press u need to use or fit a proper oil press gauge even give it to a mech to test Is the knock tinny, metallic ,top end , bot end ? does the car run allright ?
All timing gears were set up exact. We made sure of this, my mechanic mate is pretty pedantic bout things like that, he hates havin to pull it apart to fix it if it's farked up(done this one too many times as an apprentice me thinks!!!
)
Just rechecked the noise then.... sounds like a ticking noise, not tinny, but not full metal to metal....and seems to be coming from the inj pump side of engine. Car runs fine apart from that noise and the oil pressure guage dropping at running temp.
Might pop in to see another mechanic I know to get his opinion on things.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
RUFF wrote:Have you taken it back to the mech that built the engine?
Nah, me and my mate (he's a diesel mechanic) done it at home. I know I can trust his workmanship. He's rebuilt a few of our engines before and all have been good, as well as him doing them at work.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
take the car to a fuel pump shop they may confirm the sound is just noisey injectors due to being clean its the metal to metal from not having any dirt n shit in them they will sound noisey till they bed themselves in .run the motor and put a screwdriver to your ear n to the injectors or to were the sound is or buy the mechanic stethascope it will help to pin point the prob
ok, cars only been driven occasionally so really had no need to delve into the prob till now.
The knocking noise is still there and over the last week the oil pressure has been really erratic, sometimes not even moving the oil pressure guage at all on start up. Can anyone tell me where the oil pressure relief valve is... maybe this might be stuck????
Just done the 5000km oil change on Sat as well and still not getting any movement from the oil pressure guage, (used Castrol RX Super if it helps).
Also noticed that the oil was "very" thin when changing the oil. Could this be a prob with the inj timing as Ruff said before, meaning the diesel is mixing with the oil??? is there anyway to check this timing without stripping all the front of the engine apart again???
Urgent replies needed....
The knocking noise is still there and over the last week the oil pressure has been really erratic, sometimes not even moving the oil pressure guage at all on start up. Can anyone tell me where the oil pressure relief valve is... maybe this might be stuck????
Just done the 5000km oil change on Sat as well and still not getting any movement from the oil pressure guage, (used Castrol RX Super if it helps).
Also noticed that the oil was "very" thin when changing the oil. Could this be a prob with the inj timing as Ruff said before, meaning the diesel is mixing with the oil??? is there anyway to check this timing without stripping all the front of the engine apart again???
Urgent replies needed....
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Sixty wrote:on the drivers side front of the engine, down the bottom, is a large bolt head. Behind that is the relief vavle etc.
can be a biatch to get to.....
use a ring spanner and you can get it without taking anything off
21mm i think?
to get the piston out the easiest way is to take the cap and spring out and start the car, let it idle for about 5 seconds and it will pop out with a splash of oil.
otherwise its almost impossible to get out without taking the power steering pump off.
the relife valve and spring is about $13 from toyota.
PS: could be your oil pressure guage playing up. I recently fitted a aftermarket guage and the toyota guage L corresponds to about 70PSI and H to about 95PSI, which im pretty sure must be wrong.
Shadow wrote:Sixty wrote:on the drivers side front of the engine, down the bottom, is a large bolt head. Behind that is the relief vavle etc.
can be a biatch to get to.....
use a ring spanner and you can get it without taking anything off
21mm i think?
to get the piston out the easiest way is to take the cap and spring out and start the car, let it idle for about 5 seconds and it will pop out with a splash of oil.
otherwise its almost impossible to get out without taking the power steering pump off.
the relife valve and spring is about $13 from toyota.
PS: could be your oil pressure guage playing up. I recently fitted a aftermarket guage and the toyota guage L corresponds to about 70PSI and H to about 95PSI, which im pretty sure must be wrong.
cold and or hot...... what PSI is it supposed to run at???? Where do I get a gauge to test this.... how much $$$?? Do I test this where the pressure relief valve is????
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
the toyota manual says 65 to 85 psi at 3000rpm (hot)
and 3.8psi or more at idle (think at 3.8psi your oil pump is nearly fucked)
Test it by taking the toyota oil pressure sender out, think its 1/4 inch fitting, you can get cheap guages from supercheap for about $30, but iu got one from autobarn for $75, good one with light n stuff.
if you havent changed your oil pressure relief valve before (during rebuild?) theres a good chance that yours is sticking.
the plunger wears a step in the bore which causes the plunger to stick.
you may need to linish the bore a bit with some wet and dry on a dowl (how i did mine).
i have been told that most 2H's have problems with the oil pressure relief valve as they go passed 350k.
and 3.8psi or more at idle (think at 3.8psi your oil pump is nearly fucked)
Test it by taking the toyota oil pressure sender out, think its 1/4 inch fitting, you can get cheap guages from supercheap for about $30, but iu got one from autobarn for $75, good one with light n stuff.
if you havent changed your oil pressure relief valve before (during rebuild?) theres a good chance that yours is sticking.
the plunger wears a step in the bore which causes the plunger to stick.
you may need to linish the bore a bit with some wet and dry on a dowl (how i did mine).
i have been told that most 2H's have problems with the oil pressure relief valve as they go passed 350k.
Shadow wrote:Test it by taking the toyota oil pressure sender out, think its 1/4 inch fitting, you can get cheap guages from supercheap for about $30, but iu got one from autobarn for $75, good one with light n stuff.
This would be the one behind the starter and just in front of the bell housing
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Just curious, what was the oil level before you dumped it?
Really high?
If so you might have to have a look at your fuel pump maybe dumping fuel into you oil. Don't know too much about the yota diesels but I think this might lead you to the problem if the other avenues don't pan out.
Really high?
If so you might have to have a look at your fuel pump maybe dumping fuel into you oil. Don't know too much about the yota diesels but I think this might lead you to the problem if the other avenues don't pan out.
Something witty said by someone famous
Busiboy wrote:Just curious, what was the oil level before you dumped it?
Really high?
If so you might have to have a look at your fuel pump maybe dumping fuel into you oil. Don't know too much about the yota diesels but I think this might lead you to the problem if the other avenues don't pan out.
wouldn't say it was real high, but I'm pretty sure it was higher than when I filled it... not to mention fuel consumption is nowhere near as good as it was before the rebuild. Also blowing a bit of smoke too, I tend to think it's the fuel thats not being burnt during combustion, hence inj pump timing out.... someone tell me if i'm on the wrong track(im no mechanic, thats for sure!!)
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
brighty wrote:Shadow wrote:Test it by taking the toyota oil pressure sender out, think its 1/4 inch fitting, you can get cheap guages from supercheap for about $30, but iu got one from autobarn for $75, good one with light n stuff.
This would be the one behind the starter and just in front of the bell housing
yep just behind the EDIC motor actually.
directly above the oil filter
J Top wrote:If you do fit a cheap guage and intend to run with it, watch the nylon line doesn't chafe or burn on anything as it will empty your sump and blow your motor.
J Top
i went for a copper line for this reason
super heap sell seperate copper plumbing kits, so you can buy the cheap guage and the copper kit sperately.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest