Americans
:shocked!:
a bit too much
went to those ideas
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
longer shackles
Hi Camo,
I'll probably be beaten up for this post but i'll have a go at it...
Oh, and i should point out that i am very new to this and you should probably read my advise and talk to someone else about it before accepting it as anything near gospel.
First up i guess you need to think about tire size and i guess that relates to what you want to use your car for too.
Once you have your tire size determined, find out what the minimum height (i.e. lowest) you can run you car is to fit those tires under it. Why lower? - because it will mean more stability.
So for example with the tire size:
Stock Tire = 26" - fits with no lift at all
29 - 30" - fits with some minor body work and the correct offset
34" - fits with some more body work and a body lift.
Note: If you want to fit more than 34" of tire you need to think about more pretty big mods to the body of the car around the head light area because it just won't fit if you are keeping your car low.
Next up is the suspension area - what i have understood is that more travel is better - but only to an extent - i.e. it needs to be controlled travel to balance the car properly and allow control.
The other thing to think about is balancing out your suspension between the front and the rear - i.e. if you have a rear that is going to travel heaps etc, then you need the front of the car to work hard too (travel lots) otherwise the front will never move and the rear will do all the work - this will not be balanced.
So for example, if you have a look at my car, which i have attached below (if i remembered), the front and rear are running the same springs and work equally as hard. The car wants to stay straight no matter what i am driving over. This is an example of a well balanced car.
Another great example of this kind of balance can be seen on Grimbo's green sierra LWB and the LJ on 36's that can be found in this suzuki section too.
More examples of car's balance can be seen by looking at cars on the travel ramps - the angle of the car (body/chasis) should be approximately 50% of the angle of the axel. i.e. if the car axel is at 30 degrees, then the body should be at 15 degrees. make sense?
Anyway, enough gabbling... give us some more info about what you are trying to build and i'm sure that someone here will be able to help you with some more recomendations.
My recomendations would be OME springs with Rancho shock absorbers - but i think you'll find that there is a lot more work involved then just fitting these to make them work.
Cheers,
Greg
I'll probably be beaten up for this post but i'll have a go at it...
Oh, and i should point out that i am very new to this and you should probably read my advise and talk to someone else about it before accepting it as anything near gospel.
First up i guess you need to think about tire size and i guess that relates to what you want to use your car for too.
Once you have your tire size determined, find out what the minimum height (i.e. lowest) you can run you car is to fit those tires under it. Why lower? - because it will mean more stability.
So for example with the tire size:
Stock Tire = 26" - fits with no lift at all
29 - 30" - fits with some minor body work and the correct offset
34" - fits with some more body work and a body lift.
Note: If you want to fit more than 34" of tire you need to think about more pretty big mods to the body of the car around the head light area because it just won't fit if you are keeping your car low.
Next up is the suspension area - what i have understood is that more travel is better - but only to an extent - i.e. it needs to be controlled travel to balance the car properly and allow control.
The other thing to think about is balancing out your suspension between the front and the rear - i.e. if you have a rear that is going to travel heaps etc, then you need the front of the car to work hard too (travel lots) otherwise the front will never move and the rear will do all the work - this will not be balanced.
So for example, if you have a look at my car, which i have attached below (if i remembered), the front and rear are running the same springs and work equally as hard. The car wants to stay straight no matter what i am driving over. This is an example of a well balanced car.
Another great example of this kind of balance can be seen on Grimbo's green sierra LWB and the LJ on 36's that can be found in this suzuki section too.
More examples of car's balance can be seen by looking at cars on the travel ramps - the angle of the car (body/chasis) should be approximately 50% of the angle of the axel. i.e. if the car axel is at 30 degrees, then the body should be at 15 degrees. make sense?
Anyway, enough gabbling... give us some more info about what you are trying to build and i'm sure that someone here will be able to help you with some more recomendations.
My recomendations would be OME springs with Rancho shock absorbers - but i think you'll find that there is a lot more work involved then just fitting these to make them work.
Cheers,
Greg
thanks greg
looking to run 32' tyres as this should be enough clerance (body and diff)for most things i run over
already have 80mm body lift and that is about all i have done
am thinking dobinson greasable shakles 4way return to centre damper pro comp or rancho shocks with OME or 4way leaf springs (rears alround) with there bacis lift of about 40mm or 50mm this should not be a problem to fit the tyres
then its just an engine swap, lockers, rockhoppers, maybe spoa, reverse shakle...............................................................................................................................................................................etc. etc. etc.
any other surgestion? or ideas i am open minded to all things
camo
looking to run 32' tyres as this should be enough clerance (body and diff)for most things i run over
already have 80mm body lift and that is about all i have done
am thinking dobinson greasable shakles 4way return to centre damper pro comp or rancho shocks with OME or 4way leaf springs (rears alround) with there bacis lift of about 40mm or 50mm this should not be a problem to fit the tyres
then its just an engine swap, lockers, rockhoppers, maybe spoa, reverse shakle...............................................................................................................................................................................etc. etc. etc.
any other surgestion? or ideas i am open minded to all things
camo
maybe you could reduce the body lift 
If you are going to go spring over, you won't want to get the OME springs as they are too soft and i believe you will invert them in the the near future - so you will probably end up returning back to your stock springs (with a few more leaves in them)...
So far the only options i have run with are totally stock, OME suspension kit (springs, shocks, steering dampener) and now the OME rear's all round with Rancho shocks.
If you are only trying to fit in 32's and you already have your body lift in place i'm pretty sure it should all fit without a massively arched spring.
I don't know anything about the dobinson's springs or the 4way dampener but i would definately recommend the OME springs and steering dampener... perhaps you would want to think a bit more before getting the OME shocks though - they are pretty stiff and may not have the amount of droop that you want.
Note: to do the rears all round (OME set up) you will need to extend the front of the chasis to allow for the extra spring length... there is also other work to be done there too i.e. brake lines and shock mounts etc...
Cheers mate.
Greg
If you are going to go spring over, you won't want to get the OME springs as they are too soft and i believe you will invert them in the the near future - so you will probably end up returning back to your stock springs (with a few more leaves in them)...
So far the only options i have run with are totally stock, OME suspension kit (springs, shocks, steering dampener) and now the OME rear's all round with Rancho shocks.
If you are only trying to fit in 32's and you already have your body lift in place i'm pretty sure it should all fit without a massively arched spring.
I don't know anything about the dobinson's springs or the 4way dampener but i would definately recommend the OME springs and steering dampener... perhaps you would want to think a bit more before getting the OME shocks though - they are pretty stiff and may not have the amount of droop that you want.
Note: to do the rears all round (OME set up) you will need to extend the front of the chasis to allow for the extra spring length... there is also other work to be done there too i.e. brake lines and shock mounts etc...
Cheers mate.
Greg
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 98 guests