Hi All, a question. I own a sweet 77 2 door in VGC. It's in really good nick and I have stripped it and started again to its current standard.
It has the usual stuff ARB bar, uhf/cb, 40mm body lift, King Springs 2 inch lift, Cooper front bar, Rola Roof racks, Recaros seats, 33 mudds, rear Maxi drive, bla bla bla....
Now the drive train is lt95 4 speed (not really very noisy) and a sweet 3.5 high comp with extractors and electronic dizzy bla bla, Sweet note, it pulls hard has no leaks and is in great nick but yes, still underpowered...
SO
I have a great friend who has built and competed in his Rangie with a 4.4 and ZF auto and he has offered to help me do the conversion to mine. He has all the parts and knowledge having done this mod before and we think we have found a suitable 4.4 out of a donour Rangie that has just been rebuilt.
So the question? Who would do this mod to their truck and what would be the overall result. I don't "need" to do it, but the help from a great mate and the knowledge that goes with it seems to good to pass up, not to mention the power and performance. I could keep it manual, but the auto/motor combo does seem like a good to excellent option.
What do all you guys reckon???
I plan on keeping my rangie for a looong time. I have a company car so this is my weekend camper and shopping trolley/hobby. I am not into extreme 4x4 but enjoy the idea of having and owning a very capable and tuff 4by..
I also at the time plan on having it all engineered and certified, so it will be done right...
So, what do you all think in Rangie land. Oh, and I think all up after selling my overhauled lt95 and 3.5 the changeover will probably be about $1500.00.
MATT
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Who would do this?
Moderator: Micka
G'day mate,
I have bought a 4.4 to put in my RR, but mine is a daily driver so i'm not putting it in just yet till I can organise a car while I do the conversion.
But it will be worth it, will be nicer to drive, not always using full throttle and even been able to accelerate up hills
good thing you have the maxi in the rear cause the extra torque will stress the drivetrain more.
I'm keeping mine a manual (R380) but thats a personnal choice as I prefer manuals (I'm old fashioned) the auto is a good conversion apparently (alot of guys on here will tell you).
I have bought a 4.4 to put in my RR, but mine is a daily driver so i'm not putting it in just yet till I can organise a car while I do the conversion.
But it will be worth it, will be nicer to drive, not always using full throttle and even been able to accelerate up hills
good thing you have the maxi in the rear cause the extra torque will stress the drivetrain more.
I'm keeping mine a manual (R380) but thats a personnal choice as I prefer manuals (I'm old fashioned) the auto is a good conversion apparently (alot of guys on here will tell you).
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
A mate of mine converted his LR Hyrid (rangie chassis - S1 body - 3.5V8 and LT95) to a 4.4 (but kept the LT95). The difference was amazing. The 4.4 has a huge amount more torque than the 3.5. Off-road this thing would idle up the steepest hills offroad in third low or 4th low (with stock gearing) - on the same hills a stock 3.5 could only just hold 2nd low.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I've got a 4.4 in mine and can attest to the huge amount of torque these things have. I can drive long steepish hills in high range which i would have previously driven in low 2nd with the 3.5
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
I would do it without thinking.
The LT95 is a great box, but not overly user friendly around the city where most of us spend out time. I now have an LT95 in my 83 and haven't used it on-road yet (still organising the RWC), but I can see myself getting the shits with it and putting the ZF/3.9 EFI in some time soon.
Like DAS I need the Rangie for work and everyday driving so it will be a while before i do fit it, but a bit of motivation will see me getting chessed off and fitting it
Go the 4.4/ZF auto you won't regret it.
Trav
The LT95 is a great box, but not overly user friendly around the city where most of us spend out time. I now have an LT95 in my 83 and haven't used it on-road yet (still organising the RWC), but I can see myself getting the shits with it and putting the ZF/3.9 EFI in some time soon.
Like DAS I need the Rangie for work and everyday driving so it will be a while before i do fit it, but a bit of motivation will see me getting chessed off and fitting it
Go the 4.4/ZF auto you won't regret it.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Hey Matta
I did the 4.4 conversion earlier this year when the clutch/gearbox and then engine decided to die. I've got it matched to the lt95 with the later ratio gearing for high range, which makes first gear useful. Mine is also a 77 but with 31's.
I thought about the auto, but prefer manuals, also if you go the auto the tunnel (or whatever its called) will require changing/modifying.
The difference in power/torque is great. I had it dynoed and i think from memory it was around 600ft pd. Around town is fine, wouldn't be much different to driving the 3.5.
I'm in Brissy so if you want to have a drive to see what its like let me know.
Guy
I did the 4.4 conversion earlier this year when the clutch/gearbox and then engine decided to die. I've got it matched to the lt95 with the later ratio gearing for high range, which makes first gear useful. Mine is also a 77 but with 31's.
I thought about the auto, but prefer manuals, also if you go the auto the tunnel (or whatever its called) will require changing/modifying.
The difference in power/torque is great. I had it dynoed and i think from memory it was around 600ft pd. Around town is fine, wouldn't be much different to driving the 3.5.
I'm in Brissy so if you want to have a drive to see what its like let me know.
Guy
Definately go the Auto they are spot on - on the engine side - well
I know the 4.4s produce great power and torque but they are really starting to get long in the tooth - personally I would trade the torque and power gains of the carby 4.4 for EFI 3.9 motor.
Look I have never had a 4.4 but I know a few Haultech blokes have, one is still kicking ass in the mog rover and the other died and it was not cheap to fix and it was dumped. They put a 3.5L bottom end in with a 3.9L top end and hotwire EFI. It goes like stick - faster than most of the other 3.9s down there (most of which came out of discoverys which should produce about 10Kw more than the rangie 3.9s)
Just a thought, find a 3.9L EFI mainifold and system and fit it - or find the mainfold and build a megasquirt to run it.
Tom
I know the 4.4s produce great power and torque but they are really starting to get long in the tooth - personally I would trade the torque and power gains of the carby 4.4 for EFI 3.9 motor.
Look I have never had a 4.4 but I know a few Haultech blokes have, one is still kicking ass in the mog rover and the other died and it was not cheap to fix and it was dumped. They put a 3.5L bottom end in with a 3.9L top end and hotwire EFI. It goes like stick - faster than most of the other 3.9s down there (most of which came out of discoverys which should produce about 10Kw more than the rangie 3.9s)
Just a thought, find a 3.9L EFI mainifold and system and fit it - or find the mainfold and build a megasquirt to run it.
Tom
4.4
Thanks Everyone! I appreciate everyones responses. I have had the motor checked. It was fully rebuilt 15000ks ago and runs a dipped 5 fin radiator which keeps it real cool with an aluminium shroud. The motor is so quiet you can here the points on the dizzy ticking!
Anyway, we are in price negotaitions now so will know something more soon. I have decided to fit the motor to my LT95 and then sort it all before I do the the auto conversion. The current motor has no extractors or electronic ignition so once I retrofit my existing ones I reckon it will have some sting!
For those who have done the motor conversion, who and where do you go to get it engineered?? I'm Brisbane Gold COast.
Thanks all and I will keep you posted with my progress.
MATTA
Anyway, we are in price negotaitions now so will know something more soon. I have decided to fit the motor to my LT95 and then sort it all before I do the the auto conversion. The current motor has no extractors or electronic ignition so once I retrofit my existing ones I reckon it will have some sting!
For those who have done the motor conversion, who and where do you go to get it engineered?? I'm Brisbane Gold COast.
Thanks all and I will keep you posted with my progress.
MATTA
P76 UPDATE!
High all! Well the timimg to resurect this post is profound as on the weekend the P76 went in! All in all I'm very happy with the conversion.. Took us 6 hours to remove the old motor and place in the new. Then the next day we fitted off all the ancillory stuff etc etc. No real dramas in the fitting except we had to heat the extractors to fit inside the chassis rails as the block is a fair bit wider. Nothing a blow torch can't fix and a crowbar. Had an exhaust shop fit the main plumbing yesterday without drama.
Other issues include:
- (1) Exhaust hits rear chasssis rail. FIXED. Modded the rear clamp and fitted a few washers which dropped it enough to clear without hassles. About 5 mm.
(2) Leaking Oil sender unit. FIXED I THINK. Tightened but if it continues to leak I'll apply some thread seal tape and retighten.
(3) Leaking vacuum hose on rear of manifold. FIXED removed air box and tightened hoses with zip ties. all seems good but haven't tested.
(4) Sticky throttle. FIXED. Modded hinge on carbs to now run off tappet cover bolt and it works a treat. Need to test but have removed spring off pedal as it seems not to be required.
(5) Tapping noise. WILL BE FIXED. Coming from leaking LHS exhaust gasket. Bought new gaskets and some more blue gasket goo and will refit.
(6) Timing. Needs chacking again as its too advanced.
(7) HEAT! NOT FIXED. Yep this is an issue. Temp on water would have been a needle thickness off the red and oil was about 130 degreees. Way too hot. Maybe the fan isn't working so I'll check it when I can get it going and run it till the thermostat opens and switch her off to see how tight the fan is. If its looose then maybe we have a fan issue. Might even be worth going back to the old fan. I would say teh timing being way too advanced is possibly not helping the heat issue.
First job in the new year will be rewiring followed by a dyno and AC service!
Will keep you all posted. OH and I have it all engineered and blue lated too! BEAUTIFUL!
MATTA
Other issues include:
- (1) Exhaust hits rear chasssis rail. FIXED. Modded the rear clamp and fitted a few washers which dropped it enough to clear without hassles. About 5 mm.
(2) Leaking Oil sender unit. FIXED I THINK. Tightened but if it continues to leak I'll apply some thread seal tape and retighten.
(3) Leaking vacuum hose on rear of manifold. FIXED removed air box and tightened hoses with zip ties. all seems good but haven't tested.
(4) Sticky throttle. FIXED. Modded hinge on carbs to now run off tappet cover bolt and it works a treat. Need to test but have removed spring off pedal as it seems not to be required.
(5) Tapping noise. WILL BE FIXED. Coming from leaking LHS exhaust gasket. Bought new gaskets and some more blue gasket goo and will refit.
(6) Timing. Needs chacking again as its too advanced.
(7) HEAT! NOT FIXED. Yep this is an issue. Temp on water would have been a needle thickness off the red and oil was about 130 degreees. Way too hot. Maybe the fan isn't working so I'll check it when I can get it going and run it till the thermostat opens and switch her off to see how tight the fan is. If its looose then maybe we have a fan issue. Might even be worth going back to the old fan. I would say teh timing being way too advanced is possibly not helping the heat issue.
First job in the new year will be rewiring followed by a dyno and AC service!
Will keep you all posted. OH and I have it all engineered and blue lated too! BEAUTIFUL!
MATTA
Re: P76 UPDATE!
matta wrote:(7) HEAT! NOT FIXED. Yep this is an issue. Temp on water would have been a needle thickness off the red and oil was about 130 degreees. Way too hot. Maybe the fan isn't working so I'll check it when I can get it going and run it till the thermostat opens and switch her off to see how tight the fan is. If its looose then maybe we have a fan issue. Might even be worth going back to the old fan. I would say teh timing being way too advanced is possibly not helping the heat issue.MATTA
Holy sh!t batman, that's HOT.
My 79 4.4 runs at 80 degrees water temp and about 60 degrees oil temp.
I have the original viscous fan & shroud and a 4 core radiator (I think).
I also run an oil cooler.
Timing is set to 12 degrees for LPG, but I am going to back that off a bit because it doesn't run well on petrol.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
Yes a little warm..
OK. Got the old girl engineered at Chapmans at Cooroy on the Sunny Coast. Nice guy, very strict but does things right. I also got my seatbelts done too as I have changed the front seets to full RECARO buckets and put the retyractable seatbelts off the C pillar. For the engine and belts it cost me $80.00 plus GST.
And yes it is waaaaay to hot but I need to get everything sorted. I have got all the niggling issues now sorted (vacuum, header gasket etc) so its onto the heat issue now. I will do a fluid check with open thermostat this weekend and I have retarded the timing so I will test run that and see where to go from there. I have a good quality 4 core out front so the heat has to be being generated from some issue I haven't covered. Will run an oil cooler too in the new year so that will help too!
MATTA
And yes it is waaaaay to hot but I need to get everything sorted. I have got all the niggling issues now sorted (vacuum, header gasket etc) so its onto the heat issue now. I will do a fluid check with open thermostat this weekend and I have retarded the timing so I will test run that and see where to go from there. I have a good quality 4 core out front so the heat has to be being generated from some issue I haven't covered. Will run an oil cooler too in the new year so that will help too!
MATTA
Those stock radiators are not much cop most of the time on a 3.5 let alone a 4.4.
I had my stocko radiator re-corred last week, took it up to Ormeau and it still started to run hot in low range, but i was pushing it to see how hot it would get, plus it was a warmish sort of a day to boot. The engine does't use water and there's nothing leakiang anywhere, so I'll give it a few weeks and if I'm not happy, it's getting the big A and my 3.9 radiator will go in.
Glad the conversuion went along okay. Still consider the auto option though.
Trav
I had my stocko radiator re-corred last week, took it up to Ormeau and it still started to run hot in low range, but i was pushing it to see how hot it would get, plus it was a warmish sort of a day to boot. The engine does't use water and there's nothing leakiang anywhere, so I'll give it a few weeks and if I'm not happy, it's getting the big A and my 3.9 radiator will go in.
Glad the conversuion went along okay. Still consider the auto option though.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Those stock radiators are not much cop most of the time on a 3.5 let alone a 4.4.
I had my stocko radiator re-corred last week, took it up to Ormeau and it still started to run hot in low range, but I was pushing it to see how hot it would get, plus it was a warmish sort of a day to boot. The engine does't use water and there's nothing leakiang anywhere, so I'll give it a few weeks and if I'm not happy, it's getting the big A and my 3.9 radiator will go in.
Glad the conversion went along okay. Still consider the auto option though.
Trav
I had my stocko radiator re-corred last week, took it up to Ormeau and it still started to run hot in low range, but I was pushing it to see how hot it would get, plus it was a warmish sort of a day to boot. The engine does't use water and there's nothing leakiang anywhere, so I'll give it a few weeks and if I'm not happy, it's getting the big A and my 3.9 radiator will go in.
Glad the conversion went along okay. Still consider the auto option though.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
HOT
An update for you all! OK, firstly I reckon the old 7 blade viscous hub fan jobby is well and truly rooted. It stays the same spin tolerance whether its cold or 130 degrees. So its coming off. Will investigate a new viscous coupling hub but this time of year looks unlikely so I might have to use a flex flan or something similar for now???
Secondly I pulled the thermostat and bought a new one, then did the old boiling water test. The old one only opened 1/2 the distance of the new one so I'd say some of that also contributed to the heat issue.
And finally the engine runs smooth until I give it some right foot then it misses like all hell.... Will adjust timing and then look at other electrical issue. Coil, leads, spark etc....
Merry Christmas to you all....
Will keep you osted as to progress..
MATTA
Secondly I pulled the thermostat and bought a new one, then did the old boiling water test. The old one only opened 1/2 the distance of the new one so I'd say some of that also contributed to the heat issue.
And finally the engine runs smooth until I give it some right foot then it misses like all hell.... Will adjust timing and then look at other electrical issue. Coil, leads, spark etc....
Merry Christmas to you all....
Will keep you osted as to progress..
MATTA
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