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So has anyone bent this before?
What would be the best way to get it straight again?
Cut off and weld on a new mount? Bend the old one?
It's pulling the pinion level up too high, causing the uni-joint to hit the a-frame on full right side compression.
On top of that, i've bent 3 trailing arms in the last 4-5 trips, what is the best solution and who can do it in Melbourne?
I picked up a rolled RR as a donor for my project. The rear mount on one side was a bit tweaked, so with heat from a torch, and love from a sledge its as good as new!
Remove the bushing first, and be mindful of wires and lines (fuel/brake).
David
I have bent that arm twice on my disco what I did is I off-set the arm much thicker in the center and 1.5 cm longer and angled losange shape in the center so that the stress is all the stengthened center of the arm rather that on the joints where you damaged yours.
I do a lot of articulation, have a dislocation cone with bottom retainers and it is still standing strong.
Let me know how I can send you a pic of the off-set radius arm so you can fix it once for all.
Jay
96 Disco Gamel Trophy 36"*12.5 ET'II's, F&R ARB's,4.75 R&P GBR,GBR F&R
83 Rangie 2" OME Still Stock
I've bent that. As others have said, remove rubber mount then use heat and a hammer to straighten.
But it sounds like you may have a problem elsewhere. I cant see enough damage to that mount to cause the problems you described. I suggest you have a good look around where the ball joint mounts on top of the diff.
Sleeve the trailing arms as one way to strengthen them. Get some seamless pipe that is a neat fit over the pipe used for the trailing arm.
Cut the sleeve to length of the pipe in the trailing arm (you will see the weld at both ends). Make the cuts at both ends of the sleeve like a vee, not square - looks something like <======> This will give a better welded connection.
Drill some holes for plug welds spaced along the length of the sleeve.
Remove the trailing arm and cut it into 2 halves.
Push both halves into the sleeve, check the length and weld the sleeve to the trailing arm.
Great tips guys!
I'll give that mount a bit of a whack after some heat. Shouldn't be too hard to get it back to 90 degrees again.
Wasn't sure if that was the safest option, as I could imagine it wouldn't be nice having that mount break clean off the chassis!
Michael, I like those trailing arms! Are they any longer to correct pinion angle? Or have you corrected that at the a-frame connection?
I know that the suspension lift isn't good on the trailing arm bushes, but they've survived well so far.
I might sleeve the existing arms as mentioned, then correct pinion angle with an a-frame spacer.
Something's not right with the uni hitting the a-frame.. Rolling Eyes
Davidh wrote:Great tips guys! I'll give that mount a bit of a whack after some heat. Shouldn't be too hard to get it back to 90 degrees again. Wasn't sure if that was the safest option, as I could imagine it wouldn't be nice having that mount break clean off the chassis!
Michael, I like those trailing arms! Are they any longer to correct pinion angle? Or have you corrected that at the a-frame connection? I know that the suspension lift isn't good on the trailing arm bushes, but they've survived well so far. I might sleeve the existing arms as mentioned, then correct pinion angle with an a-frame spacer. Something's not right with the uni hitting the a-frame..
.
Because the A-arm swings with a shorter radius than the lower trailing arms the pinion points further down when the suspension is lifted. Longer trailing arms would make it worse. This is generally corrected using a spacer for the A-arm ball joint.
If you need longer trailing arms to correct the pinion angle, it suggests to me that you have something else wrong. You need to find out what it is and not compensate for it by lengthening the lower trailing arms.
I was co-driving in an early model Rangie in the 2003 Vic Winch when we pushed the rear trailing arm mount forward enough to start tearing it out of the chassis. This then caused the tailshaft to hit an A-Arm mount bolt and thus we screwed off the tailshaft on the next stage.
Think this happened by getting airborne and coming down with too much right pedal and new tyres.
Repaired it by fitting 80 series rear lower link arms and fabricated new mounts. Heaps stronger, better for suspension travel due to eye mounts at both ends and heaps better clearance at the mount.
The 80 series arm bush is the same width as the Rangie rear bush but takes a 18 mm bolt whereas Rangie is 16 mm from memory. Just machined up a 1mm sleeve and problem solved.
I've had a few of these recently, after staightening the mount i've reinforced it and sleeved the arms. so far we haven't had the same problem. its a fairly easy fix.
I have seen people state that 110 trailing arms are beefier than Disco arms (think a few have swapped to 110 arms on the UK challenge scene). I can't confirm this myself though.
1tonsoup wrote:I have seen people state that 110 trailing arms are beefier than Disco arms (think a few have swapped to 110 arms on the UK challenge scene). I can't confirm this myself though.
Seamus.
hahah
there will be afew people on the forum that know that the 110 arms (even if they are stronger than the disco arms) are still VERY weak. I have seen afew bent arms on 110's and I have supplied 2 with heavy duty bent arms.
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
The 110 county's have thicker arms than the later 110's (defenders). Strengthening them never hurts though. On landies that get a lot of articulation I have seen the threaded section at the end bend.
1tonsoup wrote:I have seen people state that 110 trailing arms are beefier than Disco arms (think a few have swapped to 110 arms on the UK challenge scene). I can't confirm this myself though.
Seamus.
there are stronger bent arms readily available in the UK,
standard ones are too thin/weak
Can supply arms simmilar to ones pictured but they are also strengthened have used them for 2 years in all winch challenge events in AUS and NZ havent bent them yet. (7396989
