Oil & fuel

[buger]

I have some questions, about oil and fuel in my MK SD33T.
I need these because I'm going to do an all oil change im my MK in the begining of the new year.

1. How much oil and what type of oil I need, for refill my motor, diff, gear box and trans?

2. What is the best oil for brakes, clutch and power steering?

3. Where is the bolt on the injector pump (pics if possible) that is used to open or close the fuel and how it works?

[mickyd555]

i used to have a SD33, i assume the T is for turbo. i cant remember the requirement on anything but the engine oil. that was 12 L with filter and 10.5 with out i think. definately 12 with filter, so just do the filter at the same time...... i hope that helps a bit.

[Patroler]

You should get away with just under 10 litres of engine oil with filter, i use rimula x, castrol rx super is meant to be good also. Its a good idea to change engine oil and filter every 5000ks on these motors.
Taking a wild guess about gear oils - ive done it plenty of times but aren't 100% on the quantity! I'd say the total quantity for 2 diffs, transfer and gearbox would be 7-8 litres - it would be under 10l.
hyp80/90 gear oil can be ran in all open diffs and gearboxes, use lsx90 in the diffs if you have air lockers (its better for the 'o' rings), not 100% sure what limslip oil to run if you have and lsd though.

I buy my gear oils and engine oils in 20l drums, splashed out and bought a decent drum pump also, much cheaper in bulk and the drum pump makes it heaps easier.

Power steering, brake and clutch fluids i just run anything eg shell power steering fluid and shell brake and clutch, as long as i stick to the one type - don't mix them and use clean fresh stuff only.

To bleed the injector pump - memory again!! Unscrew and replace the filter, slacken off the union on top of the filter housing (outlet - goes to the injector pump) then operate the hand pump next to the lift pump until only diesel comes out - no air bubbles, tighten the union back up, then back off a bolt i think which would be up the front of the injector pump possibly on the side, operate the hand pump again until no air bubbles come out of this bleed screw, tighten it back up and you should be right to go

Hope that helps, ask if you run into trouble with that bleed screw and i'll look in the manual.

[buger]

Thanks for the help for the oil question!

But for the screw I didn't mean the bleeding screw, but the screw for open or close the fuel that goes to the injectors or engine (if you now what I mean).

[Patroler]

You wanna adjust the rack? i.e. give the motor more fuel? Ive never had to do it so can't say, ive got a feeling its at the back of the pump somewhere, maybe V8patrol or Screwy would know

[DR Frankenstine]

The adjuster screw for the fuel is on the side of the pump as you look at it. It adjusts onto a half moon shaped lever. if you have air conditioning it may be behind a vaccum throttle actuator which increases your revs when you turn on the air cond. You undo a 10mm nut then you can adjust the screw in or out depending on what you are trying to achieve. I would strongly recommend you dont adjust it as it sounds like you may not know what you are doing. you would also need to set the fuel up with a good quallity pyrometer and change the boost on the turbo. Theres no point doing one without the other. If not done correctly you will have engine damage.