Ok I just brought a 94 dual cab tray back Hilux with a 2" spring lift.
Can I put 33's on with out any mods.
I don't want a body lift.
On the treads I have found some people talk about moving the front diff forward?
Cheers
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33's on a 94 Hilux
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
33's on a 94 Hilux
'91 Sierra 4" lift
Front & Rear Lockers
S3 Rockhopper
94 Hilux Dual Cab
Front & Rear Lockers
S3 Rockhopper
94 Hilux Dual Cab
Re: 33's on a 94 Hilux
cattzooks wrote:Ok I just brought a 94 dual cab tray back Hilux with a 2" spring lift.
Can I put 33's on with out any mods.
I don't want a body lift.
On the treads I have found some people talk about moving the front diff forward?
Cheers
Why not do a body lift?
Otherwise your only option is to move the diff forward, just drill new holes in the springs about 2" forward.
I got 3" body lift and 4" springs and I can still get my 33's to scrape out on the back of the arches.
\m/
Move the diff forward and they shouldn't scrape. My diff is 35mm forward, I have zero lift and they(33s) *just* rub the rear guard but that's only cause the spring hangers are bent
You'll need a shorter draglink and torque rod. You'll also need to lenthen your drive shaft.
Here's a pic of the my modified draglink: (sorry, crap photo)
Ended up costing $150 to get the draglink modded at an engineering shop, should be able to get it done for less though. They basically cut and threaded it, then drilled and tapped a <very> thick walled piece of tube to suit.
Make farkin sure that the draglink is strong enough. Bad, Bad Shit when they break Also, FWIW welded steering components are very illegal. (I was going to get it cut/welded)
Superior Eng. has adjustable torque rods:http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/products.htm#torquebars
The drive shaft was $120 I think.
EDIT: I've beaten the shiat out of the seam so that it sits flat, and cut the guards.
If you move your diff forward, you'll have to adjust the turning stops so that the tire doesn't hit the steering box at full lock/compression, so you'll lose a bit of turning radius.
You'll need a shorter draglink and torque rod. You'll also need to lenthen your drive shaft.
Here's a pic of the my modified draglink: (sorry, crap photo)
Ended up costing $150 to get the draglink modded at an engineering shop, should be able to get it done for less though. They basically cut and threaded it, then drilled and tapped a <very> thick walled piece of tube to suit.
Make farkin sure that the draglink is strong enough. Bad, Bad Shit when they break Also, FWIW welded steering components are very illegal. (I was going to get it cut/welded)
Superior Eng. has adjustable torque rods:http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/products.htm#torquebars
The drive shaft was $120 I think.
EDIT: I've beaten the shiat out of the seam so that it sits flat, and cut the guards.
If you move your diff forward, you'll have to adjust the turning stops so that the tire doesn't hit the steering box at full lock/compression, so you'll lose a bit of turning radius.
I want to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible thats why no body lift.
I'd rather put 31's on and get two air lockers than a body lift. I'll have a chat to the guy's at Superior Engineering when they put my air locker in.
Cheers
I'd rather put 31's on and get two air lockers than a body lift. I'll have a chat to the guy's at Superior Engineering when they put my air locker in.
Cheers
'91 Sierra 4" lift
Front & Rear Lockers
S3 Rockhopper
94 Hilux Dual Cab
Front & Rear Lockers
S3 Rockhopper
94 Hilux Dual Cab
Lift Kit
At this stage you have already raised your centre of gravity with the suspension lift. The body lift will not affect you cog much. The main items that make the difference is engine,gearbox, and transfer case. A body lift leaves these heavy items where they are already. Many more options for tyre sizes with a body lift.
1990 Surf
2" Body Lift,2" Suspension Lift,33" Tyres.
2" Body Lift,2" Suspension Lift,33" Tyres.
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