I have a 40 do i go a petrol or diesel motor

[Iava64/40]

I have a 40 that I am rebuilding and have to decide petrol or diesel motor. It had no motor with it but it had a 3-speed gearbox and transfer case. What do you think will be the best motor? (The old motor was petrol and I half expect to do changes to the box tc diff and so on.)

[De-lux]

go a diesel.

[Busiboy]

Hi power diesel but bigger $

5lt petrol cheap plus good power

[plowy]

A 14bt diesel import motor it is a yota motor 4cyl ,3.7ltr with a factory turbo around the $5000 /6500 same physical size as a 3b in wich is only 3.4ltr none turbo.Then u can go in the water with out uppsettin the dizzy and all the rest of the wet petrol probs . The 14bt also has a shit load more power than the 1hz even if its turbed

[Busiboy]

That is a crap load of money to spend on a 40!!

If I do my maths I have only spent, carry the 3 ummmm

Go ahead sound cheap to me

[scotto]

That is a crap load of money to spend on a 40!!

but dude ITS A 40

my std boring old 3b is a tractor at the best of times but it never complains when its wet, it revs real low, doesn't overheat, doesn't stall on steep stuff.....
i have seen many a petrol including v8s fall victim to water and angles
UNLESS they are EFI/or on gas only this is where the pretol engine set up price curve seems to rise. do you see much mud or water?

i am looking at efi holden v6/v8 - compared to turbomacating my 250,000k diesel (straight through 3"breathing, "conservative boost" ).
at similar money its a tough choice cause rebuilding my old diesel down the track could cost me a bomb...the question for me is do i want to risk that outlay twice by sticking to diesel? (cause i love it!!)

ball tearing power could be fun
ask yourself what your budget is

[plowy]

Ive replaced my old 3b with another 3b in the interest of originality[dam fool for doing that] i was suggested the 14bt buy a mate who runs it in a dual cab dyna on 60 series running gear at 10psi wich halls arse big time, but i didn't listen [again dam fool ] even tho the 3b has 4500km on it if i had the money id convert to the 14bt ,yep ive spent to much on it so i may as well keep goin n increase the national debt on it . Havent decided if its love or a sickness ?

with gas or injection is good for the vertical climb and from what ive heard there is overheating probs when the GMH v8 is fitted where the GMH v6 is a better way to go?????

but a dirty old diesel is good for any time

[shorty_f0rty]

itd recommend the 3b as well.. you can have it on some nasty angles running without any problems for a while.. i was stuck with my nose in the air in a precarious position for about 5mins all the time with my foot on the brake and the engine running. and it just kept on chuggin..

im also looking to turbo the 3b and reckon it'll be a worthwhile investment long term.. better than standard performance and a bit more get up and go.

[bj42turbo]

I reckon go the petrol

























Only joking, go the 3b or even better add a hairdriyer or go a imported 13bt

Tidy42 it's a sickness we all need to see someone about it

[Iava64/40]

Thanks for that. Now i have to save my pennys

[spazbot]

go the V8

[dumbdunce]

it comes down to what you want to spend and what you expect to get from the vehicle. if you just want dumb big cheap power and don't care about fuel consumption or off road performance, get a petrol V8 in there. if you want good offroad ability and don't care how fast it goes, the 3B is hard to beat. if you want performance and economy then you have to spend big on the 14B-T or similar. ofr any of those options you are better off ditching the 3 speed boat anchor and getting a newer 4 or 5 speed with split transfer case, there are a greater variety of adaptors available for the newer ones and they are stronger and nicer to drive.

cheers

Brian

[matt g]

Hi All,

Hearing about the 14-BT - how similar is that to the 13-BT, and do you have any issues with power electrical systems (12/24v), or diesel sulphur levels etc?

These have both been suggested to me as worry items with import MWBs with the japanese spec 13-BT

Thanks
Matt

[dumbdunce]

Hi All,

Hearing about the 14-BT - how similar is that to the 13-BT, and do you have any issues with power electrical systems (12/24v), or diesel sulphur levels etc?

These have both been suggested to me as worry items with import MWBs with the japanese spec 13-BT

Thanks
Matt

nothing that can't be fixed - the jap fuel requirements are probably more stringent than here anyway.

electrically the 14B-T can be 12 volt converted. glow plugs and starter motor is about it.

[matt g]

Hey Dumbdunce,

So with stricter fuel requirements in Japan is that not going to make the motor unhappy with fuel quality here, or is it only a problem in the reverse situation? We're changing over to a stricter diesel soon here aren't we?

Starter motor and glow plugs? OK, are they the sort of thing likely to be problematic if you were to break down outside a major population centre?

Cheers
Matt

[DIRTY ROCK STAR]

Hey mate i have a 2F go the Diesel!

and if u had 5k to spend which im gueesing u dont, fack the 14bt off, get a CHEV V8 Diesel!!!!!!!!!!!!

V8 and diesel best of both worlds...


but in reality a 2H or 3B would be your go....

but.... get rid of that 3 speed!!!! get a 4 speed box, spend 200 bucks treat yourself!

[dumbdunce]

Hey Dumbdunce,

So with stricter fuel requirements in Japan is that not going to make the motor unhappy with fuel quality here, or is it only a problem in the reverse situation? We're changing over to a stricter diesel soon here aren't we?

yes I believe that is the situation, but no guarantees. If your pump does have problems due to fuel quality, it is repairable, but not necessarily cheap. The same problems occur with locally available diesels, so if you're going diesel it's something you have to consider no matter where you buy the motor from.

Starter motor and glow plugs? OK, are they the sort of thing likely to be problematic if you were to break down outside a major population centre?

Cheers
Matt

use the same glows and starter as the locally available 13B-T so not likely to be a problem. they are pretty reliable anyway and even if the glows go out, direct injection motors are pretty easy to start without glows, and the starter motor is common to the whole B family, so landcruisers, dyna trucks etc have the same - should be able to get them anywhere.

no EDIC on the direct injected motors so no 12/24v worries there.

cheers

Brian

[bad_religion_au]

and if your glowies go out and it's a huge problem, boil a couple of litres of water and slowly tip it over the head, should get enough heat in there... worked on my H up mount hotham in ski season

[Iava64/40]

I was ust looking at a 71 the other day and to change from a 3 speed to a 4 and had to cut the cross member out (that is the curcular one). What is the legal or enginering iplications to that

[DIRTY ROCK STAR]

Iava64/40
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 6:55 am

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I was ust looking at a 71 the other day and to change from a 3 speed to a 4 and had to cut the cross member out (that is the curcular one). What is the legal or enginering iplications to that

who cares, put another one in near it.

its old, no one will know its not legit.

and "it was like that before you got it" "your not an automotive engineer" so it isnt your problem.

[Andy_B]

Go the diesel, it's tough as nail that engine. you can kick it in the balls and it well keep going. Went all the way up to Cape York and never had an issue. As for Transmisions I would get a 5 speed. The 4 speed for touring sucks, and uses more fuel.