anyone got any suggestions on how to get more flex out of my bundy?
i am running 2 inch bundera suspension lift atm,
anyone had any experience using other coils? shock lengths?
also, as i am now running 35's, i wanna go slower. anyone running dual cases or rockcrawlers? what are they like? anyone got a setup to suit a bundy 4 sale?
Ben
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bundy: more flex and slower crawling
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
New centre with different C&P or new C&P put into your existing centre.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
you can fit crawler gears to the transfer case, or ring and pinion gears as other people have suggested. transfer gears are about $1600 from marks and rockhopper although rockhopper have removed their cruiser gears from sale at present due to case cracking problems.
flex in a bundy is a bit of a lost cause, the easiest, dodgiest way is to replace the leading/trailing arm bushes with softer bushes, I have done this using old rubber suspension bushes. due to the three-link nature of the suspension front and rear on the bundy, the only 'real' way to get good articulation is to modify the entire suspension linkage system to a 5 link (like the rear of a 80 series or GU/GQ patrol), or a three-link A-arm setup (only works on the back). these mods are expensive and require engineer's certification.
you can also remove and trim/round the bushes at the top ends of the leading/trailing arms, and grease them up with rubber grease, and fit a spacer to reduce the preload on the rubber, to make the joint looser.
if you really want a short wheelbase with good articulation build an FJ40, or a GQ patrol, the bundy is not built for flex.
flex in a bundy is a bit of a lost cause, the easiest, dodgiest way is to replace the leading/trailing arm bushes with softer bushes, I have done this using old rubber suspension bushes. due to the three-link nature of the suspension front and rear on the bundy, the only 'real' way to get good articulation is to modify the entire suspension linkage system to a 5 link (like the rear of a 80 series or GU/GQ patrol), or a three-link A-arm setup (only works on the back). these mods are expensive and require engineer's certification.
you can also remove and trim/round the bushes at the top ends of the leading/trailing arms, and grease them up with rubber grease, and fit a spacer to reduce the preload on the rubber, to make the joint looser.
if you really want a short wheelbase with good articulation build an FJ40, or a GQ patrol, the bundy is not built for flex.
BUNDERA wrote:Daniel, where are the pics mate?
BTW what sort of lockers were u running/currently running in your bundies and what were they like?
Cheers,
Nick
He has ARB locker front and rear.
And yeah his does flex.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
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see earlier post about suspension mods you need to do to get any flex in a bundy. it is all pretty dodgy.
front I am running stocker 80 series front springs and OME Nitrocharger 80 series fromt shocks. back I am running 80 series pedders standard height progrssive rate springs and modified 75 series front shocks, with minor mods to the LH mount to get a slightly longer shock in.
none of that makes much difference to articulation though - to get the axles to flex I have:
1. removed all 4 trailing/leading arms
2. modified the arm-end bushes (the donuts that mount the trailing/leading arms to the chassis) by grinding them from a cylinder-with-a-hole-in shape to a cone-with-a-hole-in shape, with the pointy ends of the cones against the chassis, pointing at each other. this allows the trailing arms to drop further from the body with less resistance.
3. modified the outermost axle-mounting bushes in the trailing and leading arm ends - chopped out the old, hard rubber in between the innter two rings - this was mostly pretty easy since they were so flogged anyway - and replaced them with soft, loose fitting, old shock end bushes, with lots of rubber grease letting it all slide around. also lots of rubber grease on the chassis end 'cone' bushes.
4. anti-roll bar out, gone, at the back of the garage somewhere.
I have 2" body lift, suspension is up about 4" I think, the snorkel is 'Airway' Brand, it is AFAIK bundy specific, although the air hose from the end of the snorkel to the air filter inlet is a dodgy affir made from celica inlet air flex hoses. it is allegedly possible and fairly easy to make a 75 series snorkel fit.
WARNING all the above suspension mods are specifically fro off-road articulation and will all result in a reduction of on-road performace, ie if you do all that your bundy will handle like a pig on the road. I think it's a fair tradeoff but if you like towing or doing long road trips you may not agree.
cheers
Brian
front I am running stocker 80 series front springs and OME Nitrocharger 80 series fromt shocks. back I am running 80 series pedders standard height progrssive rate springs and modified 75 series front shocks, with minor mods to the LH mount to get a slightly longer shock in.
none of that makes much difference to articulation though - to get the axles to flex I have:
1. removed all 4 trailing/leading arms
2. modified the arm-end bushes (the donuts that mount the trailing/leading arms to the chassis) by grinding them from a cylinder-with-a-hole-in shape to a cone-with-a-hole-in shape, with the pointy ends of the cones against the chassis, pointing at each other. this allows the trailing arms to drop further from the body with less resistance.
3. modified the outermost axle-mounting bushes in the trailing and leading arm ends - chopped out the old, hard rubber in between the innter two rings - this was mostly pretty easy since they were so flogged anyway - and replaced them with soft, loose fitting, old shock end bushes, with lots of rubber grease letting it all slide around. also lots of rubber grease on the chassis end 'cone' bushes.
4. anti-roll bar out, gone, at the back of the garage somewhere.
I have 2" body lift, suspension is up about 4" I think, the snorkel is 'Airway' Brand, it is AFAIK bundy specific, although the air hose from the end of the snorkel to the air filter inlet is a dodgy affir made from celica inlet air flex hoses. it is allegedly possible and fairly easy to make a 75 series snorkel fit.
WARNING all the above suspension mods are specifically fro off-road articulation and will all result in a reduction of on-road performace, ie if you do all that your bundy will handle like a pig on the road. I think it's a fair tradeoff but if you like towing or doing long road trips you may not agree.
cheers
Brian
Once the stock rubber trailing arm bushes have been flogged out, as they would have been with any old bundy, it isn't necessary to cut and change them. Grease only holds the mud in and chops the bushes out faster.....
As long as u have stock rubber bushes u should b pretty right. 80 series springs and a 2" lift, all i can say is i rolled mine and i didn't have a 2 inch lift!!!!!!!! (yes i was being stupid) but have fun keeping it on all 4 let alone the left front down.
Go the lockers...................
my 2 cents
As long as u have stock rubber bushes u should b pretty right. 80 series springs and a 2" lift, all i can say is i rolled mine and i didn't have a 2 inch lift!!!!!!!! (yes i was being stupid) but have fun keeping it on all 4 let alone the left front down.
Go the lockers...................
my 2 cents
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