rear shock question

Post by **110 TUFF** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 6:25 pm

if i use longer patrol shocks to replace my already longer 80 series shocks would the rear tailshaft angles give me any strife or would the extra long travle bring up other concerns in the rear ? was looking at the likes of a 14 inch shock, maybe fab up some rear mounts.
Just want more travle in the rear ( greedy )

Drew

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 6:41 pm

Biggest problem would be springs falling out.
slip joint may be long enogh but check.

Michael.

Post by **110 TUFF** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 6:43 pm

springs fall out now!, wired in at the top. on full droop there is about four inches of clearence between bottom of spring and coil spacer.

Drew

Post by **86MUD** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 6:50 pm

Drew

What kind of shocks are you using at the moment ie model number? I have installed modified top shock mounts front and rear that are 2 inches lower then standard and am just wondering which shocks to use now to get the most travel.

Cheers

Andrew

Post by **110 TUFF** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 7:27 pm

i am using a tough dog ralph ( foam cell ) shock who i got from opposite lock at breakfast creek. they got the bottom eye converted to a pin for me, theres no model number on them, they were a custom pair
apparently ment for a 3 inch lifted 80 series cruiser.

Drew

Post by **86MUD** » Wed Jan 12, 2005 7:55 pm

So what's the difference between the modified tough dogs you currently have and the ones that will suit a patrol?

Cheers

Post by **110 TUFF** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:49 am

they will be a lot longer, currenty tough dogs are 10.5 inch travel, new ones would be around 14 inch.

drew

Post by **CQ Davo** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:48 am

G'day all, I use 14.8" travel rancho's on the rear of my d100 with a sailsbury diff. I made custom shock mounts and made an adaptor for the bottom which is basicly a U bracket with a bolt in the bottom to convert from pin to eye. I have OME 2" lift springs all round. On full drop the uni did bind slightly so a die grinder was used to alleviate the problem. I have done a Cape York trip in 2003 with this set up and have had no problems. And yes the rear springs do dislocate so a cone made from round bar was welded onto the bottom spring plate to guide them back in. Again have had no problems with this set up.

Davo.

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:24 pm

CQ Davo wrote:G'day all, I use 14.8" travel rancho's on the rear of my d100 with a sailsbury diff. I made custom shock mounts and made an adaptor for the bottom which is basicly a U bracket with a bolt in the bottom to convert from pin to eye. I have OME 2" lift springs all round. On full drop the uni did bind slightly so a die grinder was used to alleviate the problem. I have done a Cape York trip in 2003 with this set up and have had no problems. And yes the rear springs do dislocate so a cone made from round bar was welded onto the bottom spring plate to guide them back in. Again have had no problems with this set up.

Davo.

What have you done to limit up travel as surely it would almost be fully compressed when sitting flat.

Post by **CQ Davo** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:49 pm

Have done nothing to limit up travel. The shocks will only top out with both wheels compressed and about half the bump stop compressed which is pretty hard to do being solid rubber. I still use standard bump stops as only have the 2" lift. Being a tray back there is nothing to damage at the rear. I did however have to re drill the hole for the brake line at the rear about 40mm lower on the chassis to stop it streatching as much on full droop. I've also bent the rear trailing arms and strenghtened them so as the rear rubber mount isnt stressed as much with the amount of travel that can now be obtained.

Post by **malibu9** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 9:26 pm

CQ Davo wrote:G'day all, I use 14.8" travel rancho's on the rear of my d100 with a sailsbury diff. I made custom shock mounts and made an adaptor for the bottom which is basicly a U bracket with a bolt in the bottom to convert from pin to eye. I have OME 2" lift springs all round. On full drop the uni did bind slightly so a die grinder was used to alleviate the problem. I have done a Cape York trip in 2003 with this set up and have had no problems. And yes the rear springs do dislocate so a cone made from round bar was welded onto the bottom spring plate to guide them back in. Again have had no problems with this set up.

Davo.

Can you post some pictures of the shock mounts you have made and the cones?

Thanks........

Post by **CQ Davo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:06 am

Rear view

Post by **CQ Davo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:08 am

Shock tower

Post by **CQ Davo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:11 am

Side view

Post by **CQ Davo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:27 am

I used 100mm x 10mm plate to make my towers. Still bolt on so you can go back to standard if you wish. And same angle as original but they come out about 60mm from the chassis to clear the rear tub on a wagon if you choose to install them on it as well. We have run this setup up here on a wagon and 2 utes now with now problems. For fitting on a wagon you might have to grind the top of the mount down a bit to fit and also the side brace on the tub may have to be ground off.

Post by **DFND90** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:07 pm

That is a really cool looking defender Davo :cool:

Well done, i love it!

Post by **110 TUFF** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm

Hell yeah. awesome rear end!!!

Gonna get the welder out!

Post by **CQ Davo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:21 pm

Thanks guys. Does work well in 99% of situations and doesnt effect on road handling but in some situations with the rear being so free to move eg uphill with the rear right tyre in a hole the front end does want to screw up. In that situation a selectable sway bar like on GQ patrols would be good. As you can have too much travel sometimes. Also because the rear is so "loose" the front suspension doesnt really articulate any more. So the angle of the car is dictated by the front diff as it were. Usually not a problem because the rover has virtually no weight up top anyway.

I use 7" rims with 35x10.5 pedes on them with no problems but do have to use 1" wheel spacers to stop the tyre coming into contact with the rear spring tower. Either that or custom rims. I also dropped the rear brake line down on the chassis about another 40mm to stop it stretching as much on full droop.

Davo.

Post by **landy_man** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 6:06 pm

lots of flex in the rear... :lol:

but again..........................................
unretained and totally unbalanced :roll:

Post by **110 TUFF** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 8:39 am

Hey davo, i see from your pics that your running your front steering staberlizer behind the axle ala rangie style. did you change this from the front?

drew

Post by **CQ Davo** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 9:38 am

Yes Drew, Did try 1 there for a while and it did work well but very vunrable. And yes i did smash it and had to drive home with none. So went back to original position.

Landyman yes you are correct. Is totally unballanced. Was thinking of going the Safari Guard 3 link front end to help balance it out. Bit limited with what you can do with only 2" lift. Might have to bight the bullet and go a bit more, but don't want to comprimise roll over angle to much.

Davo.

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:13 am

Landyman yes you are correct. Is totally unballanced. Was thinking of going the Safari Guard 3 link front end to help balance it out. Bit limited with what you can do with only 2" lift. Might have to bight the bullet and go a bit more, but don't want to comprimise roll over angle to much.

Davo.[/quote]

Dave fit a set of Sams slotted bushes this will help with equalizing the wheel travel at both ends and restore some balance to the vehicle.

Michael

Post by **landy_man** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 11:16 am

i agree with HSV...
some slotted bushes... (which are apparently sold out :cry:

) and retaining the rear springs will help...

Post by **110 TUFF** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:24 pm

davo i run a set of sams bushes in the front of mine and it helps heaps in freeing up the front end. i have worn my first set out and are very eager to get another set when there back in stock.

drew

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:47 pm

110 TUFF wrote:davo i run a set of sams bushes in the front of mine and it helps heaps in freeing up the front end. i have worn my first set out and are very eager to get another set when there back in stock.

drew

Do you know if he is doing GQ ones yet?

Post by **landy_man** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:54 pm

from what sam was saying on pirate, it sounded like he has been too busy to focus attention on any of the bushes...

Post by **asafk** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 6:37 am

there are some defenders around here with 14" shocks. that requires-
-custom mounts
-droop kit- cones for relocating the coils
-longer bumpstops (crucial if the coils are longer than 2" lift coils- that makes sure that niether the coil nor the shock will limit the suspention)

Asaf.

Post by **Bush65** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 8:18 am

asafk, that pic is a another good example of unbalanced articulation, with all articulation at rear and little at front. Overall stability offroad is improved when the articulation is balanced, which spring dropout does not help.

Post by **asafk** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 10:20 pm

I must agree. that's the reason why on my 110 there are only 10" shocks (BTW, the 110 pictured is much more balanced these days, with 10" travel shocks up front).

anyway, the question was about 14" shocks...

Asaf.

Post by **CQ Davo** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 12:22 pm

These sloted bushes sound good. Where do they install and how can i get a set?

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