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they workwell but dont flex as good as my rooted standard bushes
TOYZUKI 96 coily zook,lux diffs, 3 inch suspension lift,3 inch body lift, 33'sMTRS,series 4 hopper,power steer,twin air lockers,4 LINK front and rear,2 inch spacers(GOT WIDTH)
I hope they are better quality and last much longer than OME poly bushes. The ones i have tried for Rovers are loose from new and last no time at all.
Bill.
HRZOOK how radical is your ride? Can you feel if the bushes are doing what they are meant to on road, or are they that flexy that you would never put them on a daily driver?
I am toying with replacing the shagged bushes on the back of the Nissan. I guess they could only "feel" better than what I currently have, and if they flex well, they would have to be a step ahead of new rudder bushes.
Paul.
PS. If you remember, roughly what do they cost?
[size=100][color=yellow][b]
It's not what you buy, it's what you build.
Damo
I think you weld an eye to the arm then press these one piece bushes in.
I have given up using anything but standard,expensive,nissan bushes in nissan arms.The give better life then OME
J Top
Paul wrote:HRZOOK how radical is your ride? Can you feel if the bushes are doing what they are meant to on road, or are they that flexy that you would never put them on a daily driver?
I am toying with replacing the shagged bushes on the back of the Nissan. I guess they could only "feel" better than what I currently have, and if they flex well, they would have to be a step ahead of new rudder bushes.
daddylonglegs wrote:I hope they are better quality and last much longer than OME poly bushes. The ones i have tried for Rovers are loose from new and last no time at all. Bill.
Hi Bill,
Have you tried Sam's slotted bushes - one thing I like about them is
that they still drive straight when they are cut or worn.
Nothing worse than putting in a new set of bushes, wheeling them, cutting them to shreads because the limit the axle travel and then having them drive all wonky.
So looking at the title and the picture, you only lock down one end of the threaded section and let the other end twist as needed?
Thanks for that,
Paul.
Yeah the arms twist as the wheel drops
The locknut on the thread is to stop the thread knocking on the road but the polyflex work that good I am going to weld up the thread and just put another polyflex at the chassis end
I was under the zook yesterday to source the cause of my driveline vibration. I noticed with the help of a friend when the driveline is torqued up it squashes the polyflexes, this could be a major issue with a big car with lots of torque.
This could led to reduced lifespan of the polyflex bushes and might be the cause of my vibration (but unsure on that one)