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Rotary powered, rear engine buggy build up.
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Rotary powered, rear engine buggy build up.
buggy needs to be a 2 seater for WERock rules.
all i've ever seen are single seaters.
don't want that...
are there any 2 seaters around? Also trying to get my head around how it works with the engine in the back, is it just the diff gears that spin the opposite way or what?
some links or ideas would be welcomed.
Cheers Chris
all i've ever seen are single seaters.
don't want that...
are there any 2 seaters around? Also trying to get my head around how it works with the engine in the back, is it just the diff gears that spin the opposite way or what?
some links or ideas would be welcomed.
Cheers Chris
Last edited by Roctoy on Tue Feb 01, 2005 12:17 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
spazbot wrote:your gottra run the diffs upside down to compensate from memory
is that all it is!!
it is a bit of a headfcuk when i start thinking about it. to many drugs over xmas
i guess if you are cutting all the mounts off a diff housing anyway, that would be easy, just relocate the filler and drain holes and rotate the brakes???
Then you wouldn't need hi pinion centres either.
would this put all the pressure on the gear teeth in the opposite direction to normal? Thus making them weaker?
see, head fcuk, isn't it?
Chris
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
dont forget youll have 2 rotate the front nuckles 4 the steerin aswel
dependin on what diffs u use cause most fronts r 2 1 side there4 off setin the pumpkin the wrong way
simple fix is
hilux front & rear diff with pumpkin cut out & rotated so u can run front diff center upside down if u add the tabs that r in the hi pinions they lube the pinion up
dependin on what diffs u use cause most fronts r 2 1 side there4 off setin the pumpkin the wrong way
simple fix is
hilux front & rear diff with pumpkin cut out & rotated so u can run front diff center upside down if u add the tabs that r in the hi pinions they lube the pinion up
Last edited by HUNTERLUX on Mon Jan 17, 2005 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
spazbot wrote:or you could go with 1 forward gear and 5 reverse
no, don't really want to do that...
can someone else verify this??? it just seems too easy.
i know i'll have to muck around with the auto linkage so it works in reverse but if i'm using a cable setup this should be easy.
Cheers Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
You can run the motor in the back but still facing forward, and have the Gear box and tf behind it, short shat to the rear and long one to the front, and a very long rig unless you sit over the front axel.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
KRAWLA wrote:you just turn the centres upside down in the housings and run your housings the usual way toooo easy!!!!!
no need too worry bout diff gears running wrong way cause my high pinion does that in the back so all good
2 do that he will have 2 mod the diff housin eg cut the pumkin out & rotate it
KRAWLA wrote:yeah sorry man u do too cause of the diff centre bolts
or maybe u could drill the housing to accept the upside down centre????
the main reason i thought he would have 2 flip the pumpkin is 4 the crown wheel unless he uses hipinions & just puts them in upside down then there would b very little housin mods
Just use a trans axle that is set up for 4x4 like they do in the AWD porsche. etc. A porsche transaxle may be expensive but I'm sure there are other alternatives.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
There is Junk avialable for all the setups you can dream up ,
The front wheel drive cars are a good starting piont for a buggys running gear , You can run a setup using a honda motor and box to achieve a rear Engine setup , If you go to the wreckers you will see the box is on the oppposite side to most front wheelers , Just look and Think which way is this turning ,So there are setups for both rotation directions, to use a tansaxle you will need to weld up the hemisphere in the diff , These will give you an exellent low range as the
box runs thru the diff gears at around 4-1 before your transfer case .
Only prob being a max speed of around 80 ks
Two other options are avialable a company called Millner off road make a Two gear transfer case which will change the dirrection of your shafts,
They use these in simminite buggys i think,.
Or go out on limb and try a V drive from a ski boat , Motor and box in normal direction then v drive Right up the rear thru to transfer ,
Just some thoughts ,
The front wheel drive cars are a good starting piont for a buggys running gear , You can run a setup using a honda motor and box to achieve a rear Engine setup , If you go to the wreckers you will see the box is on the oppposite side to most front wheelers , Just look and Think which way is this turning ,So there are setups for both rotation directions, to use a tansaxle you will need to weld up the hemisphere in the diff , These will give you an exellent low range as the
box runs thru the diff gears at around 4-1 before your transfer case .
Only prob being a max speed of around 80 ks
Two other options are avialable a company called Millner off road make a Two gear transfer case which will change the dirrection of your shafts,
They use these in simminite buggys i think,.
Or go out on limb and try a V drive from a ski boat , Motor and box in normal direction then v drive Right up the rear thru to transfer ,
Just some thoughts ,
J Top wrote:Run a manual box and run a reverse rotation engine.
Reverse the crank direction but run a 2 gear cam drive which corrects the distributor and oil pump direction.
Car transaxles are not designed for the thrashing/reductions you need, I feel it would always be failing. The Atlas sounds the go.
J Top
All depends on his buget really No doubt about how strong an atlas is but
they are expensive over here. as would the millner be ,
When it comes to reduction using the standard transaxle with say a standard transfer gears in a detached nissan transfer gives around
150-1 ,Using A normal type box + 4-1 atlas and 4-5 diffs gives around
65-1 , This is assuming a 1st gear around 3.65- of course .
Not sure if you relise Jtop nwhere not talking about using the transaxle in its normal configuation here ,.
this is all sounding way too complicated, reason behind a rear engined buggy is just to be different and also to ballance the weight. I'm aiming for a bare minimum lightweight buggy.
i still like the idea of just turning the diffs upside down, i'm re-doing the brackets anyway and if i stick to widetrack lux diffs, i'll end up with high pinion centres etc. Of course i'd have to cut the steering knuckles off and mod the oil / lube setup in the pumpkins but this is way easier and cheaper than Porsche and Atlas setups etc.
Wasnt the front 60 series diff just an upside down rear one anyway? This could be why they're so noisy.
see here for Americia's answer
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3609734&posted=1#post3609734
Chris
i still like the idea of just turning the diffs upside down, i'm re-doing the brackets anyway and if i stick to widetrack lux diffs, i'll end up with high pinion centres etc. Of course i'd have to cut the steering knuckles off and mod the oil / lube setup in the pumpkins but this is way easier and cheaper than Porsche and Atlas setups etc.
Wasnt the front 60 series diff just an upside down rear one anyway? This could be why they're so noisy.
see here for Americia's answer
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3609734&posted=1#post3609734
Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
for lightweight...
has anyone ever used or considered a VW motor?
Heaps light to start with, no radiator, no cooling probs, plenty of power if you've got the coin.
I reckon a type IV (from a kombi) bored out to ~2.4 litres. Can be dry sumped, turboed and injected.
There's guys that run 10 sec 1/4 miles in street driven beetles with this sort of setup, so getting power should'nt be too hard.
Benno
has anyone ever used or considered a VW motor?
Heaps light to start with, no radiator, no cooling probs, plenty of power if you've got the coin.
I reckon a type IV (from a kombi) bored out to ~2.4 litres. Can be dry sumped, turboed and injected.
There's guys that run 10 sec 1/4 miles in street driven beetles with this sort of setup, so getting power should'nt be too hard.
Benno
benno_from_brizvegas wrote:for lightweight...
has anyone ever used or considered a VW motor?
Heaps light to start with, no radiator, no cooling probs, plenty of power if you've got the coin.
I reckon a type IV (from a kombi) bored out to ~2.4 litres. Can be dry sumped, turboed and injected.
There's guys that run 10 sec 1/4 miles in street driven beetles with this sort of setup, so getting power should'nt be too hard.
Benno
Allpro offroads one (Tiny) had a flat four in it, not sure if it was vw or subaru, i'm going a little different again.
and Mick, Tony and Boff's buggys are 2 seater but the engines are in the front.
Chris
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
DeWsE wrote:roc70y wrote:am a rotary nut and this would combine 2 of my 3 favourite things, wheelin and rotaries.
doesn't the second seat make it all your favourite things
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
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