Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Alternator light issue

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

Post Reply
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 11:22 am
Location: Canberra Australia

Alternator light issue

Post by ytt105 »

I've just bought a 87 RR with many problems. See earlier postings.

One of the problems is that the vehicle has twin batteries wired up by an ignition operated solenoide. Seems to work well, however, the charge light is always on. It does fluctuate sometimes but tends to dim when revs are lower not higher.

The batteries ARE being chraged. 13.3V is being delivered by the alternator consistantly.

I don't think its a problem with the alternator, maybe the jerry rigged wiring.

Can anyone advise what wires should go where on the back of the alternator. Its a 133/65 Lucas.
Posts: 1767
Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2003 9:30 am
Location: Just Near Fraser Island

Post by Maggot4x4 »

How many amp's is the alt?

Is it possible you have more current draw than the alt can handle?

I know I have this problem as mine is only 40amp and am looking at installing a second alt.

If anyone has any tips on wiring up a second alt it would be greatly appreaciated.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Posts: 72
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 11:22 am
Location: Canberra Australia

65 amp I think

Post by ytt105 »

However, I've driven from Sydney to Canberra and then about 1000ks around the South Coast and all electrics OK. If I had any charging/load problems I think they would have shown up by now.
Posts: 1119
Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 4:24 pm
Location: Neither here nor there

Post by TuffRR »

Maggot4x4 wrote:I know I have this problem as mine is only 40amp and am looking at installing a second alt.

If anyone has any tips on wiring up a second alt it would be greatly appreaciated.


Wouldn't it be easier just to replace it with a better one, this way you dont need to worry about additional brackets and belts.
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!

Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Posts: 1767
Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2003 9:30 am
Location: Just Near Fraser Island

Post by Maggot4x4 »

TuffRR wrote:
Maggot4x4 wrote:I know I have this problem as mine is only 40amp and am looking at installing a second alt.

If anyone has any tips on wiring up a second alt it would be greatly appreaciated.


Wouldn't it be easier just to replace it with a better one, this way you dont need to worry about additional brackets and belts.


Not really, being diesel, they are very $$$ and the highest I have seen is about 80Amp, where as I have the room and a 120 Amp alt sitting here.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Posts: 1606
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:20 pm
Location: Geelong

Post by HSV Rangie »

fit both nothing like having redundent systems.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Posts: 1559
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:35 pm
Location: Captain Creek QLD

Post by Bush65 »

Sounds like it could be a diode problem in the alternator.

With my earlier model rangies, there is a heavy gauge wire with brown insulation that comes from the battery terminal on the alternator. It runs across to the motor then goes to the back of the motor (above the inlet manifold on left side). Then it crosses to the right side behind the block and finally connects to the positive post on the starter solenoid.

This is a roundabout way to get charge to battery and I have had problem with this wire and it's terminals.
John
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests