Stub axles and oil seals modifications

[stokkum]

Ok so who can answer this question. At the moment I´m putting back together a 76 range rover, but also trying to make it as maintenance friendly as possible for the future. Last week I collected a near perfect chassis this is to replace the rotten one on the car, which I´m going to galvanise as I intend to keep this car for some time. The chassis came with both front and rear axles which I have decided to use as I already had from a previous project some caster adjusted swivel housings and as these are the later seven bolt type it gave me an excuse to use them. While stripping the hubs down I found that the stub axles have a nice groove in them where the inner oil seal has been rubbing. So here´s the question, on the original axle the stub axles have a removeable ring where the oil seal runs on, is there any reason to stop me from using this stub and putting it on the later type swivel housing. The reason for this is that if the oil seals ever put a groove in the stub again then it´s just a case of replacing the removeable ring and not the hole stub axle itself. I´ve had both stubs next to each other and apart from where the bearing lock nuts are sitting they look identical all the critical sizes seam to be the same. Is there an advantage to using the later hub as opposed to the earlier hub as there is an extra oil seal on the outer wheel bearing side and the inner bearing seal has another lip in it as opposed to the older type seal. The newer seal being FRC8221 the older seal being RTC3511, althougth there seems to be a lot of people using the older seal for some reason, am I missing the point.
If you can help me out with this then I´ll be really gratefull.
Thanks.
Jo

[rick130]

the RTC3511 seal is a better seal, thats why most of us run it.

Just guessing here, but has someone already installed a seal saver on the hub where you reckon it has a ring ?
If a seal contact surface has a groove, a seal saver is pressed on to the shaft it runs so that the assembly can be quickly and cheaply put back into service.
You can get them from a bearing shop, they just press over the worn section with an included tool.
I had to do that on one of my rear stub axles when converting to flooded bearings and the RTC3511 seal.

[stokkum]

Rick 130 in what way is the rtc3511 seal better than the frc8221 as it appears to have one less wiper ring.

[rick130]

Sorry, was confusing the FRC8221 with what was on the Defender, FTC4785 ( no spring energizers). These are a straight grease seal, and let water into the hub (experience).

The FRC 8221 uses one spring on one contact lip plus two wipers on the one in my hot little hand ATM.

The RTC3511 uses two spring energizers on two contact lips plus wiper. (from memory, they're in the hubs )

Maxi Drive, as well as just about everyone else recommends these seals when coverting the newer greased hubs to flooded, which is what I've been using for three years. These definately keep the oil in and water out.
The RTC3511 has to be installed 4mm below the face of the hub, with a smear of grease between the contact lips.
When I had both oil seals sitting side by side, I went for the earlier one with the extra spring/lip. It just looks the more reliable, IMHO

Rick.