Rigging an OnBoard Air setup - now installed and with pics

[bogged]

http://www.wt4wheeling.com/tech/york.htm

[phippsy]

Is there anyway you can wire the the pressure switch into the compressor so it over rides the in cab on/off switch in the cab when it hits max pressyre and cuts back in once it hits a set minimum pressure like on a normal compressure.

When I change from the little ARB compressor and get an engine driven one, I will use the loom that ran the ARB setup. The dash switch ultimatly turns the system on/off, but then the pressure switch looks after the running of it, turns off at 100psi and back on at 80psi

[shorty_f0rty]

hows this for a laugh..

i rang up "Champion Compressors" today trying to source a pressure switch. When i got through to the sales guy and told him what I was after, he asked what my application was. I explained it as best I could over the fone and when caught on it was for a OBA setup, he changed his tone completely.

He wouldn't sell me the part because he claimed I would hold them liable when my rig caught on fire.. I explained that all the other gear to oil the compressor, etc, etc and he still refused to come to the party. He said my insurance would be void and i'm better off going to TJM and buying a product off the shelf...

The next dude I call up is more than happy to help and i'll be hooking up with him tomorrow for all the oilers, seperators and pressure switchs i need to get it sorted.

anyway.. just thought i'd add that intersting bit of info..

[Bush65]

Is there anyway you can wire the the pressure switch into the compressor so it over rides the in cab on/off switch in the cab when it hits max pressyre and cuts back in once it hits a set minimum pressure like on a normal compressure.

That is the purpose of the pressure switch.

[shorty_f0rty]

Wicked.. finally found a place that'll listen!

Had better luck when I called "Budget Compressors", and the owner/operator was kind enough to give me the hard word on my setup in his own time this evening.

After talking through the latest design a few changes were suggested.. use a 4 port pressure switch and tap the gauge off that. im still thinking is pressure guage -> non-return -> 4port | guage | 1 spare? -> tank.

he also mentioned something about the inline oilers being adjustable to drops per duty cycle or something? things got technical quickly when discussing microns for seperators.. 5microns -> .01 micron filters/etc.


all and all a good chat so im thinking this might pan out ok ovre the weekend..

[Woop]

A lot of the adjustable pressure switches have multiple ports/tappings. You could use them for Safety valves/pressure guages etc. Most of the types i've used had 1 unloader valve port and 3 ports connected to the pressure switch. These switches will handle a fair bit of current so you probably wont need a relay for the compressor clutch.

An inline oiler or oil jet positioned on the compressor intake should sort out lubrication. Install a line from the oil catcher on the compressor discharge to a small jet or similar on the compressor intake. Pressure from the system will force oil through the jet providing a fine mist to keep the compressor lubed. Or fill your Sanden with grease..

Nick

[bogged]

http://www.truckin-australia.com/produc ... sp?id=1999
anyone dealt with this mob.
some shit hot lookin compressors there mr...

[RoldIT]

http://www.truckin-australia.com/product_list.asp?id=1999
anyone dealt with this mob.
some shit hot lookin compressors there mr...

There is something dodgy goin on with that site. It has a Sydney business name down the left side but all the phone numbers in the main body of the pages are yank numbers and I think they are yank prices too.

I'd be ringing them and talking to them about it before ordering.

[dow50r]

Is there anyway you can wire the the pressure switch into the compressor so it over rides the in cab on/off switch in the cab when it hits max pressyre and cuts back in once it hits a set minimum pressure like on a normal compressure.

Thats the idea, the switch supplies positive to the relay control side, and the pressure switch supplies negitive to it...if either is off, the compresser is stopped.
It took about 5 minutes to air up a set of 4 315.s from 20 to 35 psi after our last play at the Buxton steps. Yes it is involved to set up, but once you have used one of these air compressers, you dont want to go back to 12 volters....mine cost $50 for the pressor and $50 to buy a switch...the rest was from the bin at work...and my time.
The 1980 coronas use the oil in sump compresser, all mitsubishis of that era use the sandon, all v8 fords use the York.
Happy hunting.
Andrew

[shorty_f0rty]

Finally got the tank mounted this arvo..

Looks like I'll be getting my other bits later this week.







its nice n snug (thanks to the recycled flares), only needed to drill 1 hole in the tub and was a bit of a prick to mount. i feel a bit of imporvement in the ride too, with the tool box on one side of the rear diff and the tank on the other, there doesnt seem to be as many bone jarring bumps... Theres just the old bits on the tank ports at the moment, i didnt really want my good bits vibrating out while i wait to plumb it all up.

[HIL01X]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but those brackets are waaayyyy too light and there isn't even washers on those bolts. They will crack after a while or rip right off if you hit the tank on something.

Why not use an arb pressure switch? Thats all I use and only cost $30 and it's ok for diff locks then.
I also have an arb comp and a/c comp joined together with a tap between them so i can use either one if the other decides to die.

[bogged]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but those brackets are waaayyyy too light and there isn't even washers on those bolts. They will crack after a while or rip right off if you hit the tank on something.

was sorta thinkin the same thing.. specially where it mounts to the body, theres heaps of play in it by looks.

[HIL01X]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but those brackets are waaayyyy too light and there isn't even washers on those bolts. They will crack after a while or rip right off if you hit the tank on something.

was sorta thinkin the same thing.. specially where it mounts to the body, theres heaps of play in it by looks.

Glad you agree.
Some big u bolts like this are easy to make.

[shorty_f0rty]

OK.. time for an update:

The tank: Washers have been added to the bolts holding the metal strapping on. There is no play in the tank at all when your under there trying to shift it. The strapping is first wrapped around the tank and rivited over the old fares, there is another strap rivetted to the inside stap, this is the one that is bolted to the floor.
(kinda like this `\_(0)_/`, the 0 being the tank, )

The rest: Finally managed to source a decent air/oil separator from SMC yesterday afternoon so now everything is here although some of these bits give me some concern.

inline oiler, I think this only has a 1/4" ports, the air/oil separator ports are even smaller. The intake and discharge ports on the pressure switch look a bit smaller even still.

The inline oiler and the separator are rated to 150psi. The pressure switch is rated to 175. I wonder if this is going to be a problem with throughput to the tank thereby restricting enough flow that running airtools is starting to become too high a discharge rate for the line from the compressor to be able to support... does this make sense?

Now for hooking it all up. I'm pretty sure I can set the oiler up and the separator. The pressure switch is another matter entirely. Could anyone suggest some documentation on hooking these suckers up? Even if its scribbling one of the images below. I am gonna go to bunnings/bretts today/tomorrow to see if i can find any on their compressors and see how they are rigged.

All thats left is cutting one air con line. I was going to unscrew the line in from the bit that connects from infront of the radiator, as I THINK this is the intake line. Enzed should be able to help me attach stuff to the intake line easily enough. I'm pretty sure the intake filter and oiler should be ok living just behind the front right headlight.

What is the go with cutting an aircon line?? What will happen if I cut a line on this closed system. I saw somewhere online that freon will make you go blind if you get it in your eyes.. isnt it in a pressurised state when i'll be cutting the line, so stuff is likely to spew out everywhere?

As there is gas and oil in the lines, would I just need to cut/disconnect the lines and run the air con for a few seconds to clean the lines in/out of the compressor?


Heres the components I have and stuff..

pressure gauge, non-return valve, intake filter


inline oiler - rated to 150 psi


air/oil separator - 5micron rated to 150 psi


pressure switch - rated to 175psi

[Rainbow Warrior]

I also saved a filter by plumbing the intake into the engine air filter just before the carby.

[Bluey]

shorty forty, been following this tread as will be doing this myself soon. just check my aircon (already removed all lines/evaporator etc) today, got some air pumping out so at least that bit works.

is yours all up and running? got a final pic or order of parts in setup, maybe some rough idea on cost?





cheers
Lance

[shorty_f0rty]

shorty forty, been following this tread as will be doing this myself soon. just check my aircon (already removed all lines/evaporator etc) today, got some air pumping out so at least that bit works.

is yours all up and running? got a final pic or order of parts in setup, maybe some rough idea on cost?

i haven't had much of a chance to get my setup finished yet. the tranfer rebuild put any non necessary purchases on hold for a while. i just need one last visit to enzed i think.

can i ask how you approached cutting the lines and removing your condenser,etc? did you just stand back and slice it and that was it?

heres a breakdown of parts/cost:
- $25 Air tank
- $100 fittings for tank and host (safetly valve, non-return, drain, 2 x 3/4 quick connects, 7mts of 3/4" hose, 2x3/4 barbs and a two way 3/4 adapter)
- $50 air/oil seperator (smc AF30-02)
- $150 inline oiler (smc AL3000), intake filter,4port adj pressure switch w/ unloader, blo, gauge
- $20 bolts, metal strapping, etc

total: $345.

so I guess when you factor in another 50bucks for the remainding crimping, barbs and clamps..nearlyt $400 then maybe its doesn't look that cheap after all.
But where/what else would you by a mobile aircompressor you can use with air tools, chucks, and guns for that kinda money?

[kranked_dirt]

G'day all, i recently finished a setup similar to this on my 40 series. Pics may be a problem at the moment as water leaked into the old girl the other day right where the digital camera was sitting .... anyway, heres what i did...

K&N style Oil Beather from autobarn for the air intake >
Saden A/C pump, mounted on dodgy custom bracket for the minute>
3/4 inch air hose to custom manifold>>

Heres how my manifold flows>>

>From outlet on compressor> one-way valve> mulitple outlet manifold>hoses to front and rear for air tools, tires etc> hose to truck air horns > 80/100psi ARB Pressure switch> split off to 2nd tank> main tank.

Used a portable 18Lt tank from Kmart($29.98) and an old primus gas bottle as a 2nd tank, dont know how much it holds, only slightly smaller than the 18lt, i reckon the whole setup holds about 35Lt. Will try and get some pics up asap.

Took a while to sort out a few bugs (leaks, hose to close to exhuast etc) but it works a treat now, am very happy with it (never go back to electric)


crappy kiddie drawing of my set up...

cheers, ads

[Woop]

Ok i'll try and explain the pressure switch bit again:

On the input to your air tank, install the one-way valve (in your picture) with the arrow shown pointing towards the tank. In FRONT of the one way valve, install a 3 port T-PIECE air fitting --any one of the 3 ports can be screwed into the non-return valve. On ONE of the 2 remaining ports, run a suitably rated line to the discharge output of the compressor.

If you look at the underside pic of your pressure switch, you will see a small port with a flare nut (to the left of the larger port) This is the UNLOADER part of the pressure switch and needs to be connected to the lLAST remaining port on the T-Piece fitting in front of the one-way valve as prevoiusly described.

The other port of the pressure switch with the larger thread needs to be connected to a spare port on the AIRTANK. This part monitors the air pressure in the tank and trips the switch when the pressure gets up to the set cut-out pressure. It also trips again when the pressure gets to the cut-in pressure

When this happens, the UNLOADER valve part of your pressure switch also opens and vents the line between the one-way valve and compressor outlet via the T-PIECE causing the non-return valve to operate sealing the input to the tank. The pressure switch contacts open and cut power to the compressor coil stopping the pumping. Air inside the tank is prevented from escaping via the open unloader valve by the one way valve.

I HOPE this makes sense..PM me if you need another explanantion or help with setting it up as i've done 4 of these set-ups on various trucks

Nick

[+dj_hansen+]

Im looking at setting up a similar system in my car soon, but using an electric compressor, most probably a max air. Obviously i wont need an inline oil filter, but what about a water seperator, check valve?

[shorty_f0rty]

Im looking at setting up a similar system in my car soon, but using an electric compressor, most probably a max air. Obviously i wont need an inline oil filter, but what about a water seperator, check valve?

would a max air have a high enough cfm to be able to sustain filling a tank faster than airtools can drain a tank?

[+dj_hansen+]

Not really looking at running airtools... purely would run a small tank for airing up tyres and air horns.

I was thinking max air >> arb pressure switch >> tank >> manifold+pressure guage >> clip on air fittings.

[dow50r]

Not really looking at running airtools... purely would run a small tank for airing up tyres and air horns.

I was thinking max air >> arb pressure switch >> tank >> manifold+pressure guage >> clip on air fittings.

Hi Dan
That will work. If you look at the ARB pump for instance, it is pump unit with tank on its back and pressure switch on that.
Andrew.

[Bluey]

shorty forty, been following this tread as will be doing this myself soon. just check my aircon (already removed all lines/evaporator etc) today, got some air pumping out so at least that bit works.

is yours all up and running? got a final pic or order of parts in setup, maybe some rough idea on cost?

i haven't had much of a chance to get my setup finished yet. the tranfer rebuild put any non necessary purchases on hold for a while. i just need one last visit to enzed i think.

can i ask how you approached cutting the lines and removing your condenser,etc? did you just stand back and slice it and that was it?

heres a breakdown of parts/cost:
- $25 Air tank
- $100 fittings for tank and host (safetly valve, non-return, drain, 2 x 3/4 quick connects, 7mts of 3/4" hose, 2x3/4 barbs and a two way 3/4 adapter)
- $50 air/oil seperator (smc AF30-02)
- $150 inline oiler (smc AL3000), intake filter,4port adj pressure switch w/ unloader, blo, gauge
- $20 bolts, metal strapping, etc

total: $345.

so I guess when you factor in another 50bucks for the remainding crimping, barbs and clamps..nearlyt $400 then maybe its doesn't look that cheap after all.
But where/what else would you by a mobile aircompressor you can use with air tools, chucks, and guns for that kinda money?

Shorty Forty, i still reckon $400ish is reasonable when yopu look at 12volt compressors. they are crap. mates oba setup aired up his 34" tyres and my 33" from 15 to 30 pounds in less time than a arb comp did 36" 20 to 30 pounds.

my air con was real easy to remove as the system was completely empty. fittings on all joints in engine bay/front of radiator were less than finger tight. had worried about gas in system to begin with till i found this out. sorry doesnt really help you tho

hope it all comes together soon for you (know mine won't). btw, what size is the air tank?/what min size do people recommend?



Cheers
Lance

[Mad Cruiser]

I've found Tony Powell Hose Supplies on Beaudesert rd pretty helpful, they have all the brass fittings, hose of different quality/price. Also IFS at Rocklea have a wide range of stuff, although it's not all on display like Tony Powell so you can't scratch around in boxes looking for what you want.

Tony Powell's my next door neighbour !!!!

He's got a great lookin daughter

[Bluey]

I've found Tony Powell Hose Supplies on Beaudesert rd pretty helpful, they have all the brass fittings, hose of different quality/price. Also IFS at Rocklea have a wide range of stuff, although it's not all on display like Tony Powell so you can't scratch around in boxes looking for what you want.

Tony Powell's my next door neighbour !!!!

He's got a great lookin daughter

"this thread is useless without pics"

[Dane]

My mate has the intake for his compressor plumbed into the crankcase ventilation outlet on his rocker cover. This provides clean air which is lubed with oil mist from the crankcase.

[benjamin78au]

how much air can ya drag thru that rocker cover???? i thought it was only to equalise pressure.

bj

[shorty_f0rty]

well I finally pulled my finger out and got this sorted today.

After figuring out that my intake/output lines were mixed up I managed to find a place to mount everything.

I cut the lines, found the clutch activator wire, gave it some juice and heard teh pump kick in. I then went about hooking everything up.. The intake still needs a little work (right angle ntp fitting), the pressure switch needs to be wired up.

apart from that its all good. I found a few leaks initially but i think i'm at a stage now where I'm happy with it. I manually setup a switch to turn the pump on and off and watched the guage. I let it go up to about 100psi and it kept that pressure without any issues.

I noticed a GMC compressor at bunnings has the same pressure switch as the one I have and could see how they have rigged up the unloader valve. This is another thing i need to do but im not sure if i'll end up doing it.

Tomorrow I just need to hookup the switches, tighten it all up and get my hands on some tools. Can anyone recommend what size hose to get for air tools? I have some crappy coil I got with my repco air compressor but i dont know if that will cut it (besides it needs a male joiner to hook up the hoses.

I'll try and get some photos then..

[MKPatrolGuy]

well I finally pulled my finger out and got this sorted today.

After figuring out that my intake/output lines were mixed up I managed to find a place to mount everything.

I cut the lines, found the clutch activator wire, gave it some juice and heard teh pump kick in. I then went about hooking everything up.. The intake still needs a little work (right angle ntp fitting), the pressure switch needs to be wired up.

apart from that its all good. I found a few leaks initially but i think i'm at a stage now where I'm happy with it. I manually setup a switch to turn the pump on and off and watched the guage. I let it go up to about 100psi and it kept that pressure without any issues.

I noticed a GMC compressor at bunnings has the same pressure switch as the one I have and could see how they have rigged up the unloader valve. This is another thing i need to do but im not sure if i'll end up doing it.

Tomorrow I just need to hookup the switches, tighten it all up and get my hands on some tools. Can anyone recommend what size hose to get for air tools? I have some crappy coil I got with my repco air compressor but i dont know if that will cut it (besides it needs a male joiner to hook up the hoses.

I'll try and get some photos then..

Go 10mm if you want to run a rattle gun. We have an 8mm hose at work that wont run the gun properly but the 10mm lines we have work fine.