Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Non-turbo to turbo Diesel MQ
Non-turbo to turbo Diesel MQ
I read the couple of threads in the bible about this but neither of them had anyone actually complete the job and write up about it!!
So has anyone done this since then?? I wanna know if it is possible to grab the turbo etc from sd33t and whack it on a straight sd33.
Shark
So has anyone done this since then?? I wanna know if it is possible to grab the turbo etc from sd33t and whack it on a straight sd33.
Shark
Looking for a car
Shark wrote:What about the turbo off the sd33t onto the sd33??
MArc
THIS COMVERSION IS VERY VERY DOABLE.
All you have to do is get not only the turbo but the manifolds and factory SD33T piping etc from that motor and replace into the standard SD33.
You will have no dramas and will run much better for quite awhile.
You will however cut your motors life down a fair bit.
SD33 has higher compression than a Turbo version ( difference in rings and pistons etc. ) so when you put a turbo on you are putting larger stresses on the motor than a facory Turbo diesel would get.
They do run fine and you can do it, i would not reccomend running the turbo at a higher boost than standard though.
screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Just as screwy wrote, it´s no problem at all, i know of several people that have converted the diesel to turbo diesel, even though they have other pistons and so on they are pretty strong, i havent seen one blow up yet Just make sure that it gets enough fuel.
GQ 2.8TD. OME. 35 BFG. Fact. Rear Locker on steroids. Air Locker front. Gearmaster Reduction. 6HP Warn 8274.
Mintoy wrote:is the injection pump of the sd33 and sd33t the same? if not, then you will have to change the pump too. i noticed that there is a tube from the pump that goes to the turbo.
The injector pumps and all workings behind are different....
But u can plumb the turbo to the standard SD33 pump wihtout having to change it..... This has been done, just needs a good tune from a quality deisel mech
screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
if i rember right the injector pump has self ajusting fuel on both sd33 & sd33t rest bolts stright on mate u will need both inlet and exhaust manifolds
Last edited by xenith on Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
it will go or it will blow
God of Magnificant Ideas!
This has been thrashed out several times before not only on this forum but on others aswell.
The cranks are the EXACT same item as are the pistons & rods but there is some additional webbing cast into the turbo block for added strength.... whether or not its needed is another argument in itself.
Several people have fitted both genuine and after market turbos to SD33's and with nill damage recorded by fitting a turbo.
As others have stated you'll need the turbo inlet and zorst manifolds to suit, you'll need to fit a better breathing exhaust system also if any major improvement is to be gained, you should have it checked out by an accreditted diesel mechanic once its fitted.
If your serious about a turbo then get some head work done ( ie porting ) and ditch the std zorst manifold and get some custom extractors made to suit........ much horse power to be had in doing just these 2 things !
Diesels are similar to std petrol engines in that if one goes to town with a balance / blue printing / head work /opened up inlet manifold / throttle body enlargement / zorst system / etc etc then there are many more ponies to be extracted over a std motor that has just had a turbo fitted up.
It all depends on how thick ya wallet is to the number of extractable horsies you can afford / obtain
Kingy
The cranks are the EXACT same item as are the pistons & rods but there is some additional webbing cast into the turbo block for added strength.... whether or not its needed is another argument in itself.
Several people have fitted both genuine and after market turbos to SD33's and with nill damage recorded by fitting a turbo.
As others have stated you'll need the turbo inlet and zorst manifolds to suit, you'll need to fit a better breathing exhaust system also if any major improvement is to be gained, you should have it checked out by an accreditted diesel mechanic once its fitted.
If your serious about a turbo then get some head work done ( ie porting ) and ditch the std zorst manifold and get some custom extractors made to suit........ much horse power to be had in doing just these 2 things !
Diesels are similar to std petrol engines in that if one goes to town with a balance / blue printing / head work /opened up inlet manifold / throttle body enlargement / zorst system / etc etc then there are many more ponies to be extracted over a std motor that has just had a turbo fitted up.
It all depends on how thick ya wallet is to the number of extractable horsies you can afford / obtain
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
V8Patrol....
What size exhaust would you recommend running with a SD33T?
I am currently fitting a turbo (from SD33T wagon) to my SD33 ute. Gather I am better off changing the injection pump too, is this correct?
This was the only discussion I've found worth a pinch of s/&% on any forum on doing the change.
Can you let me know all the changes worth doing without having to port etc, don't want to get too carried away.
Cheers
What size exhaust would you recommend running with a SD33T?
I am currently fitting a turbo (from SD33T wagon) to my SD33 ute. Gather I am better off changing the injection pump too, is this correct?
This was the only discussion I've found worth a pinch of s/&% on any forum on doing the change.
Can you let me know all the changes worth doing without having to port etc, don't want to get too carried away.
Cheers
Take your pic some say 2 1/2" other say 3" each to there own i guess. when a put the turbo motor in mine i'm going 3" staight through.
Why cant you fit the whole turbo motor from the wagon into your ute?
Be much easier, Changing injection pumps is a bit of a pain and from what i havw seen not a lot to gain doing it. Please correct me if i'm wrong (Screwy, v8patrol)
Why cant you fit the whole turbo motor from the wagon into your ute?
Be much easier, Changing injection pumps is a bit of a pain and from what i havw seen not a lot to gain doing it. Please correct me if i'm wrong (Screwy, v8patrol)
Would change complete motors but the turbo one done 400,000km, mine rebuilt less than 5,000km ago. Some young bloke owned it, got the head reco'd and got the s/*&% when the thing was still blowing smoke at idle. Picked it up for a steal and all that it was is the injectors need a service. So long and the short of it, my motor too good to pluck out.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
2.5" with mandrel bends & a "Walker Turbo" mufflerDubbo MQ Ute wrote: V8Patrol....
What size exhaust would you recommend running with a SD33T?
or
3" with any old muffler
Your choice !....
for offroad work the 2.5" is the better choice
for road work the 3" is better.
Entirely your choice here too.......Dubbo MQ Ute wrote:Gather I am better off changing the injection pump too, is this correct ?
The non-turbo pump can be tuned to suit the addition of a turbo by a confident diesel mech.... or simply replace the pump with one from a turbo'd motor
50/50 choice!
Diesel engines enjoy similar mods to petrol engines..... IE:Dubbo MQ Ute wrote:Can you let me know all the changes worth doing without having to port etc, don't want to get too carried away.
Cheers
open exhaust / better inlet system / head flowing / larger valves / balanceing and blueprinting / etc etc etc etc ....... & that all depends on the depth of ones wallet !!!
The biggest gain will be with a custom set of extractors from the head to the turbo, again you can do this yourself or pay an 'expert' to make them for you, a good set can cost plenty but it can also gain a supprising amount of extra horsies
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
ok, i have got it all set up, but at the moment have no real boost control. if anyone that has done or been involved in one of these conversions still comes on here any help would be great.
basically, i have the n/a injector pump plumbed up as normal, ie the hose to the rear of the governor on the ip is connected to the throttle body and the hose at the front is connected to the air cleaner assembly. when doing low rpm (about 1200-1500) i can sit on a cruise speed (about 50km/h) but if i use any more throttle boost comes on strong and it starts accelerating. i can't sit on 100km/h on the highway either because the turbo is pretty much at full boost (only factory atm, about 6psi i think) then if i ease off the accelerator, the turbo stops boosting (fuel drops off) and then i slow down, back on the accelerator and it spools up and starts accelerating again...(fuel goes back up)
i have tried a boost controller in the line from the throttle body to the rear of the ip, but it idles way up and blows heaps of white smoke (unburnt fuel), remove this and it idles normally but i have no boost control. i know this is a fuel control problem, because it really powers up when it comes back on boost, the thing i am stuck on is how to go about controlling fuel (or boost reference) to the ip.
the other thought i had was to turn the wategate right down (to 1 or 2 psi) and use the boost controller in here to up the boost pressure when required and turn it down for cruising, but i think the problem i am going to run into is it won't flow enough through the wastegate to reduce fuel flow and boost pressure...
is it possible to feed boost into (through a boost controller) the other pipe on the injector pump to equalize the pressure inside the governor on the ip or not? thus reducing fuel?
the other thing i have noticed is if i disconnect the rear hose it acts the same way as what it does with the boost controller connected, lots of white smoke, and sounds like it's hitting a rev limiter...(obviously majorly overfuelling)
as above, any help would be much appreciated, i know there's probably not many people here any more that have done this conversion...
basically, i have the n/a injector pump plumbed up as normal, ie the hose to the rear of the governor on the ip is connected to the throttle body and the hose at the front is connected to the air cleaner assembly. when doing low rpm (about 1200-1500) i can sit on a cruise speed (about 50km/h) but if i use any more throttle boost comes on strong and it starts accelerating. i can't sit on 100km/h on the highway either because the turbo is pretty much at full boost (only factory atm, about 6psi i think) then if i ease off the accelerator, the turbo stops boosting (fuel drops off) and then i slow down, back on the accelerator and it spools up and starts accelerating again...(fuel goes back up)
i have tried a boost controller in the line from the throttle body to the rear of the ip, but it idles way up and blows heaps of white smoke (unburnt fuel), remove this and it idles normally but i have no boost control. i know this is a fuel control problem, because it really powers up when it comes back on boost, the thing i am stuck on is how to go about controlling fuel (or boost reference) to the ip.
the other thought i had was to turn the wategate right down (to 1 or 2 psi) and use the boost controller in here to up the boost pressure when required and turn it down for cruising, but i think the problem i am going to run into is it won't flow enough through the wastegate to reduce fuel flow and boost pressure...
is it possible to feed boost into (through a boost controller) the other pipe on the injector pump to equalize the pressure inside the governor on the ip or not? thus reducing fuel?
the other thing i have noticed is if i disconnect the rear hose it acts the same way as what it does with the boost controller connected, lots of white smoke, and sounds like it's hitting a rev limiter...(obviously majorly overfuelling)
as above, any help would be much appreciated, i know there's probably not many people here any more that have done this conversion...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests