Battery Isolators

[bigbluemav]

Hi All

As per Tough Tracks regs for the comp (Challenge Class) I need to fit a battery isolator that can be reached by me and my navvy.

Who has one, what did you use, where did you get it, how much did it cost, how much voltage drop, and do you have photo's.

All help greatly appreciated.


Regards

[Bartso]

ditto i want to know as well

[ludacris]

We have been toying with the idea. In MMM rules it does not state how or the better way to do it. I would say run a wire from your accessories to the cut of key type unit and back to your accessories. Still toying with the Idea but it should do the job. Simple, no current draw but and your navi can reach it.

LudaCris

[RV80]

It does not have to be reached by the driver.
It has to be accessable by the navi or track offical.The best place is near the grille (area). I got mine from a auto
electrical supply place at springwood for $30. Autobarn
should have them. I just got a auto electrician to make
up a coupleearth cables.

From the negative terminal to the isolator. Other side of
the isolator to earth. Original earth is diregarded.

Will be fitting mine tomorrow arvo so i'll post a pic
to you an idea.

[ludacris]

That is to easy RV. Awsome stuff.

LudaCris

[RV80]

Here it is all fitted. All i have to do is go to the
auto electrician for him to cut the old negative
terminal off and crimp on a new lug and connect
all the cables and it's done.

The blue triangle on the bonnet is a battery
location sticker. Obviously the the other one
is for the isolater switch. I got them both for
$5 at revolution racegear at Moorooka.
I used a 24mm holesaw (brand new not blunt).

[bigbluemav]

Ta RV

I just got an email from Big Red which says that they were making allowances for those already with isolators on the front of the vehicle, but that I should fit mine to C.C.D.A. rules, which is that it has to be wothin reach of both driver and navvy. I'll mount one similar to yours on the transmission tunnel, within reach of my navvy and I.

As I don't have a cargo barrier, I also have to put in some type of "rollover protection". I was just going to get some 2mm side wall 65mm dia tube and have a 4 point cage made up for the cargo section.

Anyone have any other ideas??

Others who have wagons, what are you doing to be ready by 05/03/2005 for Challenge Class??

[RV80]

The rule as stated on the tough tracks site
3.3.11 ELECTRICAL
A battery mechanical isolation switch for the battery that provides power to the
engine, ignition and fuel pump shall be securely mounted within easy reach of
any member of the crew or course official and this switch may isolate the negative terminal.

The problem i see with the isolator inside the vehicle is that if you roll
over and knock yourself out then no-one has access to the switch as
the navi is outside of the vehicle. If you do roll etc and all is ok then
there is nothing stopping the driver for switching the ignition off.
Just my opinion.
Grant

[Tas_Dean]

In speedway cars we used to put the isolater on the tunnel between where seats should be!

That ruling sounds very difficult to achieve, unless you put TWO isolaters in, ie one between the seats and one on the bullbar or similar, and that is an awful lot of cabling for a cable that has to carry starting currents!

I'm not sure if the rules state that the isolater has to be "physical" or whether you could use an isolater switch to operate a solenoid (like the old fashioned dual battery solenoids). If this was allowed then you could put two switches in, one on the tunnel and one on the bullbar (or similar).

Pros to this idea:
anyone can access an isolation switch.
Switches need not be the expensive heavy duty type
Only light switchwire is required, as you put the solenoid close to the battery
Less voltage drop during starting and winching!

Cons,
Not failsafe
chance of faulty solenoid stopping system (but is this any higher a risk than that of the heavy duty isolation switches going faulty?????)

I don't profess to know the rules, but I thought I'd give you some food for thought. I was a maintenance electrician in heavy industry, and we used the same sort of setup everyday, as the shorter you keep high current line runs, the better off you are!

[Pinball]

Been looking at similar prob with CAMMs rules.

Planning to use dual pole industrial e/stop to feed solenoids in a fail safe configuration, ie the switch has to be in "safe" position for control voltage to be applied to solenoid, which then enables power from the battery.

Reason for dual control cct is one solenoid on each battery.

E/stop button is a "slap" style unit with a twist to release function.

If it's a good enough design for mines/gasfield use i figure it oughta keep CAMMS happy.

Spock

[Tas_Dean]

Been looking at similar prob with CAMMs rules.

Planning to use dual pole industrial e/stop to feed solenoids in a fail safe configuration, ie the switch has to be in "safe" position for control voltage to be applied to solenoid, which then enables power from the battery.

Reason for dual control cct is one solenoid on each battery.

E/stop button is a "slap" style unit with a twist to release function.

If it's a good enough design for mines/gasfield use i figure it oughta keep CAMMS happy.

Spock

Pinball, your idea is what I was trying to describe. I couldn't see why CAMMS whouldn't be happy with this arreangement, however, if they haven't been in touch wit the appropriate technical advisors, they may see this arrangement as not failsafe, as it does not MECHANICALLY break the power circuit (ie it relies on a control circuit). Yes, this is standard in almost all industries.

I wasn't thinking quite straight last night, I was getting myself confused over industry rules! Industrial safety rules prohibit the use of software based e-stops (ie the emergency stop HAS to take power off the machine, not just stop the PLC. It is common to use double pole isolators, one to take the contactor (solenoid or relay if you like) out, and the other to stop the PLC.).

I hope this makes it clear as mud!

By the way, you can get the mushroom e-stop buttons with an interlocking button to press to release, or with a lock that you require a key to release!

Cheeers, Dean

[Rolly]

navi is not allowed in the vehicle at all in tough tracks comp so it would be a waste of time having the isolator inside the vehicle .
most other competitors have them mounted on the front of the vehicle .

[RV80]

So i dropped the car off yesterday to auto electrician to
hook up the isolator and i dont know what he did but
he farked up. Engine running turn the isolator key
off and it keeps running , but if i stall it, it wont
re start so he was half way there.

[bigbluemav]

RV

Is your thing a diesel?? If so, it'll keep running sans power, but (apparently) it'll shag your alternator if you keep doing it.

I assume the battery isolator is meant for use in the case of a rollover to eliminate the possibility of sparks ingniting any leaking fuel (particularly petrol).

Is this correct?? Makes sense to me.........

Also to decided to put mine in the grill.......... like yours!!


Regards

[RV80]

Mines petrol. I think it's the alternator keeping it going.
But like i said if it stalls it wont restart.