Engine Take Out

Post by **lowndsie** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 3:29 am

Just wondering if anyone has taken out their Fez engine before and if there is any traps to novice's to beware of?

Post by **HeathGQ** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 7:54 am

lowndsie wrote:Just wondering if anyone has taken out their Fez engine before and if there is any traps to novice's to beware of?

Remove bonnet. Its easier to get to the engine

At the back of the head, underneath the dizzy, is a temp sensor - about $90 to replace genuine and they have to be shipped from Jap..... so remove this before removing the engine if your keeping the engine. Its about say 10mm dia and sticks out about 30-40mm. (if your not keeping it, who really GAF...)

Remove the radiator before removing engine.

Thats about all I can remember..... just make sure you have teh right tools fo rthe job i.e. engine hoist.

Post by **SimplyPV** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:11 am

pretty much what heath said... and DO remove the hood.. makes it HEAPS easier... also if you can, try to mark each hose/wire with its matching connection with some kind of number system by labelling them with some tape, it'll make putting everything back together a real snap. just match up the numbers afterwards. if your going to do this, make sure you start either front or back and on one side, work your way around to the other side, then reverse order while installing. one thing you'll have to make an exception to would be the sensor behind the dizzy... thats a bitch let me tell ya. if ya gota hoist, right before you drop the engine onto it's mounts, hook up that sensor... makes it alot easier... are you swapping engines or what? let me know since i did this myself and i'll be glad to assist you of any farther questions you may have.

Post by **lowndsie** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:19 am

thanx guys. I'm replacing a leaking sump seal and putting in new mounts at the same time. Thought it easier to remove the motor without the gearbox to get to the two last bolts for the sump. Also taking advantage of the motor being out by doing some other mods as well; Power Steering, cleaning injectors and an electric fan as well.

12 months ago i couldn't even change the gearbox oil so i'll definately be asking for some advice.........

Post by **SimplyPV** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:26 am

lol alright mate. no problems and feel free to ask. and if you need, your more than welcome to pm me.

for the seal, when you remove the bolts for the oil pan, use a paint scrapper to gently break the seal all the way around, and SLOWLY pry it apart, you dont want to mess up the threads on the front or back end of the block (4 total). you'll likely get some crap in the oil pan so see about blowin some air inside of the oil pan to clean it out before you install it again. any more questions, feel free to ask. :cool:

Post by **lowndsie** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:30 pm

wheres the best place to disconnect the clutch cable from? would it work to just un hook the cable from the lever on the engine?

Post by **Goatse.AJ** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:58 pm

Post by **lowndsie** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 2:46 pm

wheres the best place to attach the chains to? i was thinking on the mount brackets but wasnt sure if this was the normal thing to do?????

Post by **SimplyPV** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 4:03 pm

yeah just leave the cable for the clutch intact and slip it out of the holder. as for the chains, attack it to the mounting brackets will do perfectly. thats what i did and had no dramas, just make sure you keep the chains as close to the head as possible so it doesnt give the engine much room to tilt front to back. nearly dropped my engine this way. also you'll have to hook the chain onto the mount on one of the mount's sides then do the opposite side of the other mount. it'll help keep balance. any other questions?

Post by **lowndsie** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 4:31 pm

thanx mate.......

no more questions yet but i'm sure theres plenty more to come. I have a feeling this thread is gunna be full on questions.

Post by **lowndsie** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 6:26 am

does the dizzy have to come off or can it be left on and just angled out?

Post by **HeathGQ** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 8:12 am

lowndsie wrote:does the dizzy have to come off or can it be left on and just angled out?

if you leave it on you risk breaking it. Just mark the timing and pull it out. When you put it back n, I recommend getting a new seal / o ring.

Post by **SimplyPV** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:51 am

i left it on the head.... but then again i took the head off before i removed the block, which i'm sure you dont want to do... but it might be a thought for ya, while your at it, why dont you replace the head seal? might be worth your while depending on the mileage (km) of the engine. if not, dont worry about it.... i'd take the dizzy off... and you DONT have to mark the timing for the dizzy... cuz it doesnt matter... theres a slot on the dizzy that indicates exactly how it goes back in.... hell it took me 2 hours just to get the damned thing back in because of that dumb slotted shaft.... in and out, in and out, in and out, in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out in and out... :bad-words:

you get the idea right? lol now i was told there were tools that could help with reinstalling the dizzy by aligning the slotted shaft up... but i didnt know at the time so it just took patience for me.... though i was going to lose it after that. :microwave:

Post by **lowndsie** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:15 pm

how do you unplug the wiring harness that comes from the p.s firewall and leads under the dizy then i think it leads to the injectors????? does the whole harness have to come off?

Post by **SimplyPV** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:30 pm

it detaches from the block. unhook each injector, each sensor, each plug (dunno how man you have, but i had tons due to U.S. standards so you would likely have less), unhook each bolt that holds the harness down. its just a matter of tracing the entire system and unhooking what you can. it stays in the rig so no worries mate, just make sure you label everything so it'll be easier to put back together... you did do that ..... right?

Website · Post by **murcod** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:44 pm

Most of the injector plugs etc will have a small piece of stainless wire that needs to be removed with a scriber (or something similar) before the plugs can be removed. You'll have to unplug everything off the engine - there's no main "plug" to allow you to just disconnect the whole engine loom.

Post by **lowndsie** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:50 pm

yeah atm the engine bay looks like it would make a good commercial for a label it machine.

this might sound silly but is there anything else that comes off the engine before it's removed? the starter stays i assume, as does all the belts and alt. all wires and plugs are off, no hoses are attached and i've almost got the main harness off.

my next issue is how to stand the motor once it's out of the bay. i need to work on the sump seal but i dont know if you can lie the motor down or if a special stand is needed.

There was also quite a bit of oil run out from where the dizzy was so i dont know if this would affect anything if the motor was to be put on it's side......

ohhh by the way. i've taken plenty of pix....

Website · Post by **murcod** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:24 pm

Oil out the dizzy hole is normal. Mine has leaked there whenever I've swapped them over. BTW I've never replaced the o ring and haven't had any trouble.

You should try to borrow (or hire?) an engine stand. You bolt the engine on and it works like a rotisserie (spelling???)- so you can turn it over easily without damaging it.

There's a big email coming your way now too.

Post by **lowndsie** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:34 pm

thanx dave, i'll ask around for a lend of one.

it's all going well so far. not sure how it'll go getting back in though

couple more questions, the gearbox should just unbolt and then engine is ready to be lifted? (once the mounts are undone of course). Does the clutch or anything need attention or does it all stay on?

Website · Post by **murcod** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:48 pm

Some vehicles you can remove the gearbox on the engine; but, being a 4WD with transfer case and all I don't see that working. You should be able to unbolt the gearbox and then slide it apart from the engine. The hard bit is normally realigning the clutch and mating it up again.

Have a look through the service manual and see how it says to do it. They're written with new apprentices in mind so it should step through and explain it well.

Post by **SimplyPV** » Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:49 pm

if i remember correctly, starter comes off, the 2 bolds that hold the starter on also helps hold the tranny/block together. so that'll be a breeze for you. leave the clutch alone. all you gotta do is unbolt the engine and tranny, make sure you have the hoist in place and engine secured to it!!! then slowly lift the engine off the mounts just a bit, then wiggle the engine side to side and front to back so you can slowly pull the engine away from the tranny. be sure you get another person to help ya while lifting the engine out of the bay because you want to make sure that the crank shaft that comes out of the tranny doesnt get caught on anything while its movin up and out.

Post by **Clint** » Sat Jan 29, 2005 2:13 pm

All the plugs on the wiring harness are colour coded and are also different shapes. So it shouldn't be too hard to put back together.
I have had some oil leaking from near the dizzy somewhere too, after i had disconnected everything to remove my body, good to hear someone else has had this too. So why does this happen?
I also unbolted the aircon compressor off the block and pushed it to the side so that i didn't loose gas etc from disconnecting the pipes.

Here are the photos ya wanted lowndsie.

Post by **Clint** » Sat Jan 29, 2005 2:15 pm

and installed

Post by **lowndsie** » Sat Jan 29, 2005 3:28 pm

thanx clint. hows the progress with that mod? no more broken mounts?

Post by **lowndsie** » Sun Jan 30, 2005 12:55 pm

Does anyone know how long the crankshaft from the tranny to the engine is?

Just trying to work out how much the engine will need to be moved forward before lifting......

Post by **Clint** » Sun Jan 30, 2005 1:57 pm

No more broken mounts that i know of, haven't checked for a while but.

I think the shaft is approx 2" long. If ya have removed the radiator and possably the fan, it should give ya heaps of room.

Post by **SimplyPV** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 5:41 am

yeah.... its only 2-3 inches. and you have to have the fan/radiator removed anyways, just for safeguarding so you dont bash any holes in it while removing/installing the engine. you'll have plenty of room..... just move the engine forward a bit while on the hoist, then tilt the engine to the rear a little bit while lifting it up and it should clear the bonnet lines and your good to go. if you got any more questions, feel free to ask mate. hows everything going so far??

Post by **lowndsie** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 5:40 pm

Woot.....

the dam engine is out......

will post pix tomorrow.

got it out without 2 many dramas. there was a few wires that i didnt notice but i went slow and got them all out ok. mostly hidden earth wires. Had one nut hidden behind a wire harness bracket from the tranny to motor that had me stumped for awhile. But i got the bastard in the end.

My god what have i done???????? how the #$%^ am i gunna get the bloody thing back in.

Daihatsu really made it hard to fix a leaky sump......i guess they were so well planned that they fiqured by the time it came to replacing the sump, it would be time to replace a few other things as well. Jee they are cluey those blokes...........

Anyway, back to work i go.

Post by **lowndsie** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 5:41 pm

And did i forget to say WOOT?????????

Post by **rOd** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:35 pm

lowndsie wrote:Woot.....

the dam engine is out......
.

We have lift off!

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