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welding a hilux diff
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
welding a hilux diff
is this the best way to weld up a hilux diff center?
did it this arfternoon
did it this arfternoon
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If thats the diff than that is my welded diff I sold to ruff
I had old mate at work weld it up, there is 6mm plate in between the spider gears
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Re: welding a hilux diff
tufflux wrote:is this the best way to weld up a hilux diff center?
did it this arfternoon
Yep that will last about 10 min on road. You need some plate in there and weld it to the Axle gears both sides. Dont worry too much about attaching it to the star gears but if you can it will help. Try and avoid welding the gears or plate to the carrier as this doesntr weld real well and can crack if heated too much then cooled too Quickly. Weld it with plates on both sides.
Use some Cheap spray on cooking oil to stop the welding splatter from sticking to the crown wheel or bearings.
thanks guys. was going to put some more weld to the side gears but wanted to see if anyone had any advice first. The centre i'm replacing is a 4.5 lsd that had the centre completly filled, i have been wheeling it for about 8 months. and touch wood, haven' broken anything. what do ya's think about welded front as well, have spare c.vs.
tufflux wrote:thanks guys. was going to put some more weld to the side gears but wanted to see if anyone had any advice first. The centre i'm replacing is a 4.5 lsd that had the centre completly filled, i have been wheeling it for about 8 months. and touch wood, haven' broken anything. what do ya's think about welded front as well, have spare c.vs.
DON'T WELD THE FRONT!
you will have to unlock the hubs everytime you want to turn.
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GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
Maybe I'm a freak but my steering is fine with a welded front centre. Even without the hydro assist, I don't have any problems that would cause me to go back to an unlocked front.
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i was going to weld the front anyway. understand that i'm gonna have to unlock a hub to steer on sharp corners, thats the least of my worries.
What do you think of plumbing a automatic transmission cooler off a turbo 350, into my powersteering system to keep it cool?
Can the ring and pinion off an open 5.1 be swapped to a a 4.5 LSD center? reason being LSD is allready welded and has survived 8months of day road kms, and bush abuse.
What do you think of plumbing a automatic transmission cooler off a turbo 350, into my powersteering system to keep it cool?
Can the ring and pinion off an open 5.1 be swapped to a a 4.5 LSD center? reason being LSD is allready welded and has survived 8months of day road kms, and bush abuse.
tufflux wrote:i was going to weld the front anyway. understand that i'm gonna have to unlock a hub to steer on sharp corners, thats the least of my worries.
What do you think of plumbing a automatic transmission cooler off a turbo 350, into my powersteering system to keep it cool?
Can the ring and pinion off an open 5.1 be swapped to a a 4.5 LSD center? reason being LSD is allready welded and has survived 8months of day road kms, and bush abuse.
A power steering cooler is a great idea. You will not only get the cooling effect but you'll increase the volume of your system which will give the fluid more of a chance to cool before being pumped back in. You can also get aftermarket auto coolers from Repco that come with mounts and hoses etc to attach to the front of your radiator. Get the biggest you can fit.
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TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
Having never welded diffs for fourbies but having done many for burnout and drift cars i suggest not welding anything to your housing. Simply cut a steel block as shown above but instead of it sitting on top of the other gears make it fit inside the spider gears flush with the round shaft shown in your pic. weld all four sides and dont even consider doing this with your spider gears and housing still in place. You shoul be able to remove the cage and do it seperately bvecause if you do not you will overheat the bearings. Ensure deep penetration on your welds to plate and spiders. Once you have cooled it all down slowly give it a real good clean with a wire brush etc and reassemble. Iff all of this is done away from your housing then you should be able to put it back together without crud in your diff. Oh yeah.. mark your crownwheel before removal and try to only undo one side of your bearing housing if possible. this will ensure it goes back where it was.
BTW... if you do for whatever reason have to stop heat travel when welding (ie to bearings) then use a peeled potato.. works a treat.
this theory led to many many smokey burnouts and big long drifting sessions in yrs gone by..
BTW... if you do for whatever reason have to stop heat travel when welding (ie to bearings) then use a peeled potato.. works a treat.
this theory led to many many smokey burnouts and big long drifting sessions in yrs gone by..
The best accessory you can have when your 4WDing is "Common sense" . For some this may be an expensive sacrifice.
WTF POTATOE AS A HEAT SINK?
Ok im not doubting it works, just never heard of it.
Im a welder, if your welding close to "sensitive" bits like bearings 1 cover them 2 rap with wet rag from bucket of iced water. dont forget to regrease it when your finished. duh being a diff it probably wont need greasing.
I wouldnt weld the front diff either, go to you local ARB shop and ask if you can have a drive of one of their demo trucks with the front locker on, then decide if its worth the hassle.
keep the shiney side up.
Ok im not doubting it works, just never heard of it.
Im a welder, if your welding close to "sensitive" bits like bearings 1 cover them 2 rap with wet rag from bucket of iced water. dont forget to regrease it when your finished. duh being a diff it probably wont need greasing.
I wouldnt weld the front diff either, go to you local ARB shop and ask if you can have a drive of one of their demo trucks with the front locker on, then decide if its worth the hassle.
keep the shiney side up.
mini spool is a fist sized chunk of metal that only replaces spider gears and locks the axles together placing load on the spider pins. full spool replaces whole carrier and basically you bolt your crown wheel to it and then slide your axles into the solid center.
If you have a 4 pin carrier a mini spool will be quite strong. Full spools are generally only used for tracks. an air locker would probably cost the same in the end
If you have a 4 pin carrier a mini spool will be quite strong. Full spools are generally only used for tracks. an air locker would probably cost the same in the end
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