Maximum Lift

Post by **the naked Duck** » Mon Mar 31, 2003 8:16 pm

I've enquired at several places about lifting the Rangie above 4" (suspension only) and all have said that this will result in tailshaft problems :roll:

. Has anyone gone higher and overcome this issue 8)

Post by **discokid** » Mon Mar 31, 2003 10:49 pm

Ive put 5" lift springs in my Disco. I reckon they have dropped to 4" though

I did have a lot of vibration and it has taken some time to sort out. Ive used double cardan joints front and rear on the tailshafts. Ive also spaced the ball joint at the rear to get the correct pinion angle.

This pretty much fixed the problem

Post by **madrangie** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:37 am

i have lifted my rangie up around the 5 inch mark too , still working on the front issues . The rear got custom made trailer arms and arm frame( with a swivel joint instead of ball joint) Changed the shocks to GQ eye to eye lenghted brake lines . Best person to talk to on here is cheezy about doing it as he did mine . heaps more wheel travel

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 7:55 am

Anything over 3 inches will give you driveline problems.

Rear: You will need to fit an Aframe spacer above the ball joint this will do 2 things, 1 rotate diff back to the correct location so as the drive shaft is realigned with both pinions, 2 returns the ball joint to std geometry allowing for full axle articulation. After this you go total custom links.

Front: Front axle will require rotating to correct pinion angle in conjunction with fitting double cardan u jointed front shaft.

Castor is corrected by redrilling the front swivel housing.

These mods will allow you to run upto 5 inches suspension lift.

Custom rear links and ball joint spacers are available. PM me for details.

Michael.

Post by **the naked Duck** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 5:11 pm

The P/M is done

Thanks for the info guys.

Any photos available of the 5" lifts

Post by **landy_man** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 5:50 pm

would you be using progressive springs ?

Post by **the naked Duck** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 8:00 pm

Have not looked into the set up of spring rates or shocks etc yet, however if it produces more articulation then yes.

Any sudgestions landy

Post by **madrangie** » Tue Apr 01, 2003 9:09 pm

u will need custom made springs .. i had a guess at mine and got them pretty close to what i needed i went with same rate at front but slightly heavier in the back .

Post by **DiscoDino** » Wed Apr 02, 2003 9:13 pm

Just out of curiosity, what size tires are you planning on slapping into that RR with that 4-5" lift?

Post by **the naked Duck** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 6:20 am

Looking at 33-35's depending on how much guard I have to shave off

Post by **Strange Rover** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:32 am

I would go for a 2in body lift first. Gets away from alot of drive train vib issues. With the 2in body and your 2in spring lifts you should be able to get your 35s under it with a bit of guard trimming.

Sam

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:54 am

Yes 35s will fit wit 50mm body lift, 50-60mm spring lift and guard trimming, after trimming fit fibre glass flares.

with 50 mm spring lift drive line is ok but castor will be out.
you loose 1 degree castor for every 1/2 inch lift, RR std with 2.5-3 degrees castor.

Regards
Michael.

Post by **the naked Duck** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:01 pm

Thanks for the assistance. I P/M HSV and will order the stuff thru him for the lift. Seems none of the local boys here know how to lift a Rangie above 2" :shock:

or could be bothered finding out how its done

Got a price on a Maxidrive for the rear end $2200 instaled any thoughts

Post by **the naked Duck** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:05 pm

Hi HSV,

Why use fibreglass flares, would they not be more prone to breakage. Just a question as I had thought about rubber.

Post by **mickrangie** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:16 pm

Fibreglass flares look cool!!

Ruber = poo!!!

fglass flares are easy to fix and if you get the right sized tyres then you have no probs!!!

my 4 cents

Post by **landy_man** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:35 pm

and you learn how to repair fiberglass very quickly 8) 8)

Post by **DiscoDino** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 6:34 pm

Here are the formulas for Discoverys (their wheel-wells are slightly smaller that RRs...):

29": Stock
32": Suspension lift 2" + rear fender trimming
33-35": Suspension lift 2" + Body Lift 2" + trimming + offset wheels
35-37": Suspension 2" + Body 2" + trimming + offset wheels + flares.

The above is not the Bible, but it is a guideline.

Ideally, the suspension lift should be used to have better suspension performance, and not to make room for tires. That is where the trimming, body lift, and other methods come in to keep those vibes and that COG down. Believe me, I once ran a 4" lift (OME + spacers), and it was horrible...

Post by **the naked Duck** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:07 pm

Anyone have costings on a 2" body lift

Post by **DiscoDino** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:18 pm

I got my 2" Aluminium block body lift from RoverTym in the US (www.rovertym.com) for US 235$. I carried them with my luggage!

Post by **Strange Rover** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 8:45 pm

DQ wrote:Anyone have costings on a 2" body lift

Qld Rollers and Liners makes up the steel spacers. The guy there is Syd King (hes the owner and is a range rover nut - owns a bush rangie and a 2 door rangie ute - both with rover 5L motors in them)

He doesent make a kit as such but makes the spacers so you have to get the bolts, do something with the brake lines (at 50mm you can just reroute the steel lines and lower the rubber flex line body mount by the 2in) have to do something with the clutch flex line, extend the transfer lever, realing the bumpers etc.

If you want a more complete kit then Rangie Spares might do them??

But if you want to do it yourself and cheap then Syd King is the go.

If you want to drop by my place for a few pointers (Im at logan Village which is 10 min inland from Beenleigh) then you can do that too.

Sam

Post by **mickrangie** » Thu Apr 03, 2003 10:58 pm

or you could do something like this -

Post by **landy_man** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 12:09 am

I think the Rangie Spares kit is approx $400, this includes nearly everything you need to lift the body and associated bits and pieces.

You could also buy solid steel rod, my local steel shop sells 2'' thick solid rod for $30 per meter. Get them to cut it into 2" blocks, drill it out and smooth off the edges. Then you still need to make up the brackets for the radiator, brake lines, body support brackets etc. etc.

Post by **Bodge** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 8:26 am

Boat trailer rollers !

Already drilled for bolts they come in 100mm lengths. Nice easy cut in half and you have your 50mm body lift...

Cheap as - enough to do you rangie for under $60 NZ paesos

Oh yeah... you can even get flash galvanised ones!

PS. Start spraying the existing bolts with CRC now! 20 odd years of corrosion make those suckers a :twisted:

to get off...

Post by **Bush65** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 8:53 am

DQ wrote:Hi HSV,

Why use fibreglass flares, would they not be more prone to breakage. Just a question as I had thought about rubber.

The fibreglass flares support the guards, which is needed after trimming that removes the lip (flange) around the arch.

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 9:18 am

Why Flares:
1 as bush says they stiiffen the guards after cutting.
2 Vic roads Regs tyres must be covered.

The end result is a neat finish.

Only break when u slide into a tree not done yet. :lol:

Post by **Bodge** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 10:21 am

In fact they will survive trees too....

This is the result of slapping a tree at 100 km/hr.... at night too much uncontrolled drift :shock:

Post by **Bodge** » Fri Apr 04, 2003 10:25 am

Just chuck a roll of duct tape at it and shes all like new - kinda

The flare had a small crack but was otherwise intact. The tree was split in half for about 1 metre....

Post by **the naked Duck** » Mon Apr 07, 2003 9:30 pm

Thanks for the offer Sam. I'll prob take you up on that soon

Post by **Aquarangie** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 6:36 pm

DQ wrote:I've enquired at several places about lifting the Rangie above 4" (suspension only) and all have said that this will result in tailshaft problems . Has anyone gone higher and overcome this issue 8)

IN my yhonest opinion, all that mucking around with a 4 inch suspension lift is not worth the hassle. Like Sam has stated, go the 2 inch body and spring method, you will be better off in the hoip[ pocket and less headaches in the long run.

But if you can get uit to work, all the best

Post by **the naked Duck** » Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:22 pm

Hi Aqua,

I have decided to go 50mm spring lift. The body lift will be the next item on the agenda.

Have a Maxidrive (rear only) and springs (F and R) going in this week. Finnished all the lighting required for night runs and fixed up the exhaust system from duel to single 2 1/2.

I think the pocket has been lightned enough for this week

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Maximum Lift

Maximum Lift

Lifted RR

Re: Maximum Lift

Who is online