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If you put a rover body on top of the zook, that would count.
But the suspension is a good place to start - just make sure you get the angle of the links correct. The angle of the upper one (the triangle) is probably most important in terms of how much the setup will hop when to throttle it. Dont make the upper too horizontal, keep it pointing uphill a bit if you can.
And yea, make the bottom ones a bit longer than stock also. Just cut them in half, gring down the weld a bit at the stud end (this is a spun friction weld and the two ridges do nothing and can be ground smooth) and slide some big ass heavy tube over the top and weld at each end.
bj on roids wrote:do you think it would be worthwhile to extend the a-frame?
i realise it is cast or something so could be difficult!
It wouldnt be hard to extend cause you would just remake the arms (these bolt onto the centre balljoint part)
I dont really know if is necessary to make them longer if you are just goint to run at the one suspension height. Having a short upper does cause the geometry to work differently. If you drive up something steep and the rear suspension unloads then the short upper links gives you less antisquat which is probably a good thing. So maybe the rear will be more stable on the climbs and have a less of a tendance to start to hop.
I really should explain this more - but stuff it I carnt type fast enough.
sam
would changing the ball to a pin type arrangement have any detrimental effects ?, apart from free rotational movement and the ability to shim adjust the pinion angle being a couple of the advantages would the rubber bush setup limit it in any way, how much lateral deflection is incurred through the arc of travel?
Strange Rover wrote:But the suspension is a good place to start - just make sure you get the angle of the links correct. The angle of the upper one (the triangle) is probably most important in terms of how much the setup will hop when to throttle it. Dont make the upper too horizontal, keep it pointing uphill a bit if you can. Sam
OK, so do you mean at the ball joint end it should be lower than the chassis mount end???
Strange Rover wrote:And yea, make the bottom ones a bit longer than stock also. Just cut them in half, gring down the weld a bit at the stud end (this is a spun friction weld and the two ridges do nothing and can be ground smooth) and slide some big ass heavy tube over the top and weld at each end. Sam
Will do! How long you reckon? I was thinking about 900mm
I am going to pick up the bits tomorrow, I hope the bastard has pulled them off the car by now!!!
1MadEngineer wrote:sam would changing the ball to a pin type arrangement have any detrimental effects ?, apart from free rotational movement and the ability to shim adjust the pinion angle being a couple of the advantages would the rubber bush setup limit it in any way, how much lateral deflection is incurred through the arc of travel?
thanks Greg
I guess you can do that but be carefull bacause at this end of the upper triangle (where the "ball joint"is) it does have to be able to move in every direction. It has to rotate when the axle articulates, rotate up and down as the axle moves up and down and it also has to allow the axle to move forward on one side because when one side droops it will walk forward. So whatever you put in there it must be able to rotate in all directions (some more than others)
Not sure what you mean when you say "would the rubber bush setup limit it in any way, how much lateral deflection is incurred through the arc of travel?"
Strange Rover wrote:But the suspension is a good place to start - just make sure you get the angle of the links correct. The angle of the upper one (the triangle) is probably most important in terms of how much the setup will hop when to throttle it. Dont make the upper too horizontal, keep it pointing uphill a bit if you can. Sam
OK, so do you mean at the ball joint end it should be lower than the chassis mount end???
Strange Rover wrote:And yea, make the bottom ones a bit longer than stock also. Just cut them in half, gring down the weld a bit at the stud end (this is a spun friction weld and the two ridges do nothing and can be ground smooth) and slide some big ass heavy tube over the top and weld at each end. Sam
Will do! How long you reckon? I was thinking about 900mm
I am going to pick up the bits tomorrow, I hope the bastard has pulled them off the car by now!!!
Yes and yes. I think mine are about 1100mm but I will check.
Got a question over in the Zook section as well... I need to mount the rangie ball joint to the zook axle housing, i've got an idea how to do it but wanted to hear other ppls ideas.
hi there new to this site im a rover ower it a78 mod standered at the moment plant to do a 2'' body lift + 33" tyre at chisy and then front + rear maxis then supenion mods .so hallo to all