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lpg issues
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
lpg issues
my 40 is dual fuel, and wont start first thing in the morning on lpg, once i get some form of fuel down it;s gullet (petrol, rp7 whatever) it starts and runs fine.
anyone out there know what the problem is?
anyone out there know what the problem is?
Spit my last breath
Mines usually the opposite, starts everytime on gas cause it's already a "gas", when starting on petrol, the engine needs to warm up a bit before it runs smooth.
Do you have any fuel in the fuel bowl when you are trying to start it on gas ?
IIRC, you are meant to clear the fuel bowl first before trying to start/operate it on gas.
Do you have any fuel in the fuel bowl when you are trying to start it on gas ?
IIRC, you are meant to clear the fuel bowl first before trying to start/operate it on gas.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
LPG is the "same" as petrol in that its either too lean or too rich ......
especially in a cold start situation.
QUESTIONS:
Is a "Primer button" fitted ?...... a primer button acts like a "choke" and adds extra fuel to help cold starts.
Is the primer button working ? I've seen a few of these disconected either accidently or on purpose.....
NB: some primer buttons are non existant but may be wired through the starter motor solinoid. A simple way to find if you have a "primer " is to look for a second lockout valve on the converter ( the converter is the thing with the heater hoses conected to it for those that need that book .....
"LPG for DUMMIES"
That 2nd lockout valve should have a small rubber hose from it leading to either the carby base or inlet manifold.
When was the last time the CONVERTER was serviced ?. Every few years or so ( around 5 - 8 ish ) the converter will need a service, whats involved is a stripdown and a cleaning out of the "WAX" build up that forms between the diaphram and body of the converter, this build up stops the diaphram from working correctly resulting in a lean or rich mix and subsequent "hard to start" situation.
NB: The wax isnt a problem once the converted is heated up ( ovbiously the wax melts ! ) but may lead to sluggish performance or even greater and more costly engine damage later on if left untouched.
NB/2: The wax issue is more of a problem in "colder climates" and may require more frequent converter servicing IE every 3 years or so.
Does the rig run ok once its fired up ? ( be it either on petrol or LPG )
A poor starting engine may need some TLC in the form of new sparkplugs/points/condensor/leads etc etc
Other problems may also be apparent to a "qualified LPG mechanic" and may require "specilaised" work ....like fitting a new diaphram ! WOW !
Kingy
especially in a cold start situation.
QUESTIONS:
Is a "Primer button" fitted ?...... a primer button acts like a "choke" and adds extra fuel to help cold starts.
Is the primer button working ? I've seen a few of these disconected either accidently or on purpose.....
NB: some primer buttons are non existant but may be wired through the starter motor solinoid. A simple way to find if you have a "primer " is to look for a second lockout valve on the converter ( the converter is the thing with the heater hoses conected to it for those that need that book .....
"LPG for DUMMIES"
That 2nd lockout valve should have a small rubber hose from it leading to either the carby base or inlet manifold.
When was the last time the CONVERTER was serviced ?. Every few years or so ( around 5 - 8 ish ) the converter will need a service, whats involved is a stripdown and a cleaning out of the "WAX" build up that forms between the diaphram and body of the converter, this build up stops the diaphram from working correctly resulting in a lean or rich mix and subsequent "hard to start" situation.
NB: The wax isnt a problem once the converted is heated up ( ovbiously the wax melts ! ) but may lead to sluggish performance or even greater and more costly engine damage later on if left untouched.
NB/2: The wax issue is more of a problem in "colder climates" and may require more frequent converter servicing IE every 3 years or so.
Does the rig run ok once its fired up ? ( be it either on petrol or LPG )
A poor starting engine may need some TLC in the form of new sparkplugs/points/condensor/leads etc etc
Other problems may also be apparent to a "qualified LPG mechanic" and may require "specilaised" work ....like fitting a new diaphram ! WOW !
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
ok, generally it is on gas when i park it. so the bowl is empty of petrol.
yes it has a primer button, it appears to work, but does not make it start...
as for servicing the converter, well i didn't know i had to, that could be next in line. do i need to take it to a "speciallist" to service, or can i pull it apart myself, clean it, new diaphram or whatever, and chuck it back together. sounds like it could be an avenue to pursue, as i've had the truck 3 years and never serviced it, and don't think the previous owner had at all.
i seem to have plenty of spark, and as soon as fuel goes in (be it from a jerry can or a squirt of rp7 or starter fluid) it fires immediately
once started it runs well on petrol, with one flat spot in the mid range, but runs perfectly on lpg
yes it has a primer button, it appears to work, but does not make it start...
as for servicing the converter, well i didn't know i had to, that could be next in line. do i need to take it to a "speciallist" to service, or can i pull it apart myself, clean it, new diaphram or whatever, and chuck it back together. sounds like it could be an avenue to pursue, as i've had the truck 3 years and never serviced it, and don't think the previous owner had at all.
i seem to have plenty of spark, and as soon as fuel goes in (be it from a jerry can or a squirt of rp7 or starter fluid) it fires immediately
once started it runs well on petrol, with one flat spot in the mid range, but runs perfectly on lpg
Spit my last breath
start at the easy bit i would replace plugs as spark can look good but it is no good
from what u r saying go the plugs first then fuel ratio
would like to know what convertor u r running
but just see how u go with new plugs
when cranking engine check that u have 12v at gas lock of while cranking
from what u r saying go the plugs first then fuel ratio
would like to know what convertor u r running
but just see how u go with new plugs
when cranking engine check that u have 12v at gas lock of while cranking
ok it was me
depending on how your lpg system is wired ,the primer will only release gas while the engine is cranking. it has to do with the safety only opening the soleniods when the ignition coil is fireing it also helps if you give the carb some throttle when cranking because opening the butterflys helps suck the lpg in quicker!
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
TOYOTAS ARE LIKE TAMPONS!! every pussie has one!
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD...You know you want to hit it...Your just afraid of the consequences
thanks guys, will scrape the mud off the converter and try to ID it tomorrow, got some headlight wiring to track down too...
as for the starting tips, thanks, it was starting fine with all the above mentioned methods (primer while cranking, open the throttle etc) untill last week.
as for the starting tips, thanks, it was starting fine with all the above mentioned methods (primer while cranking, open the throttle etc) untill last week.
Spit my last breath
Hey Mate
I have the same problem in my cruiser. It just means you have a little leak between the two lock off valves and it is taking time to get to the converter and it has air in it aswell by the time it does get there.
I fixed the problem by throwing the whole system out and running on petrol only as it costs roughly the same to run on gas or pet.
I have the same problem in my cruiser. It just means you have a little leak between the two lock off valves and it is taking time to get to the converter and it has air in it aswell by the time it does get there.
I fixed the problem by throwing the whole system out and running on petrol only as it costs roughly the same to run on gas or pet.
yo gotta be joking the same costs on petrol and lpg
so 18l per 100km on lpg so about $9 per 100km
or 18l per 100km on petrol so about $18-$19 per 100km
drive 1000 kays and ive already saved 100bux
i know on petrol mine gets no where near that i use about 30l per 100km so im saving atleast 20bux per 100km on lpg
so 18l per 100km on lpg so about $9 per 100km
or 18l per 100km on petrol so about $18-$19 per 100km
drive 1000 kays and ive already saved 100bux
i know on petrol mine gets no where near that i use about 30l per 100km so im saving atleast 20bux per 100km on lpg
I just converted my GQ from petrol to straight gas and I am only using about 5 - 10% more gas than petrol. So, it will work out heaps cheaper to run
Also, my system takes about 5 seconds of cranking before it starts. But it will start 1st go, everytime.
I would have your system looked at before throwing it out
Also, my system takes about 5 seconds of cranking before it starts. But it will start 1st go, everytime.
I would have your system looked at before throwing it out
i drove my 40 on petrol for 2 weeks at about 35l per 100km
i said stuff that and fitted the duel fuel system back into it
was using about 25l of lpg per 100km
then i decided to get rid of the petrol and went straight lpg and im now using 18l of lpg per 100km
so im damn happy with that
average price of lpg is 40cpl so it costs me about 6-7bux per 100km
i drove melbourne to euroa which is 180km for $15 with all my camping gear
and theres no gas mechanic i do everything diy im just skilled
i said stuff that and fitted the duel fuel system back into it
was using about 25l of lpg per 100km
then i decided to get rid of the petrol and went straight lpg and im now using 18l of lpg per 100km
so im damn happy with that
average price of lpg is 40cpl so it costs me about 6-7bux per 100km
i drove melbourne to euroa which is 180km for $15 with all my camping gear
and theres no gas mechanic i do everything diy im just skilled
I had better get you around to tune my cruiser as I get about 25-35L per 100kays on gas and about 14-16L on pet. The price of gas is around 40-50 cpl and pet is around 95-105 cpl. I cannot see the point in paying the 1500 bucks for the conversion. Especially when the tank fouls when I go off road and I have been hard pressed to get a jerry can full of gas when I run out in the bush!
Gas Sucks on 4wd's
Gas Sucks on 4wd's
outlandy wrote:I had better get you around to tune my cruiser as I get about 25-35L per 100kays on gas and about 14-16L on pet. The price of gas is around 40-50 cpl and pet is around 95-105 cpl. I cannot see the point in paying the 1500 bucks for the conversion. Especially when the tank fouls when I go off road and I have been hard pressed to get a jerry can full of gas when I run out in the bush!
Gas Sucks on 4wd's
You just need to be more creative.
I have dual fuel and it is great, 25L/100K in heavy traffic 5 days a week
about 17/100K on the highway, I need to tune it up a bit more, advance her up.
Tom
outlandy wrote:I had better get you around to tune my cruiser as I get about 25-35L per 100kays on gas and about 14-16L on pet. The price of gas is around 40-50 cpl and pet is around 95-105 cpl. I cannot see the point in paying the 1500 bucks for the conversion. Especially when the tank fouls when I go off road and I have been hard pressed to get a jerry can full of gas when I run out in the bush!
Gas Sucks on 4wd's
Yeah, you had definitely better get someone else to tune up your cruiser because your fuel consumption on LPG shouldn't be anywhere near that much higher than your petrol consumption.
I agree about the jerry can though; that's why dual fuel is preferable over straight gas imho.
This is not legal advice.
you guys need to be more inventive about a gas jerrycan
http://cust.idl.com.au/athol/carbits.html
and also scroll about 1/2 way down
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... &start=510
http://cust.idl.com.au/athol/carbits.html
and also scroll about 1/2 way down
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... &start=510
pcman wrote:you guys need to be more inventive about a gas jerrycan
http://cust.idl.com.au/athol/carbits.html
and also scroll about 1/2 way down
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... &start=510
Just remember that if you get caught "decanting" a mobile container into your vehicle container you can be fined about $10,000. If someone catches you of course.
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